Question about Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Ingitor comes on but main ports wont ignite

Hi I have a carrier super saver model 58ssb it is about 20 years old. My ignitor will light the pilot flame but when it asks for the main port to ignite all it does is click continously. I have changed the pressure valve to no avail. Is the problem the gas solenoids? Because I do hear them clicking. It was working fine up until now I even had the furnace checked over and everything was fine until now.

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  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    I checked that also and thats not it. I replace this part last year so it is relatively new, however who nows nowadays. I believe it is a white rodgers it is stamped "wr" as for part # I think it is #36e 93 304

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    This unit is older than that I also replaced the circuit board the year before last. Because on the

    last one the solenoids went bad.

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    The draft inducer motor does not run until the furnace kicks on there by exhausting any fumes if this the motor which you are talking about.

    I havent checked inside the motor istself for trash but I will do that. As for the tube itself I didn't see anything inside it.

    As for the pressure switch it is normally open held closed.

    Yes it is natural gas.

    The tech told me that the gas pressure was 3.5 which was on the money he said.

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    The controller board is a hamilton test systems model #990-490 with a 24vdc airpax attached to it the # on that is 37a11z24-0021 8718

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    Just to let you know that board is the original its about the only thing I haven't replaced.

    And yes that inducer ran up until this problem.

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    Sorry took so long I have a new problem now the pilot light isn't even igniting now? Don't know what to think now!

    And I do believe you are right that inducer motor did come on prior to the furnace igniting and now it aint working either.

    Yes that airpax is connected to the control board that switches the pressure switch. Are these problems connected to this board?

    The board I did replace was to the blower motor I figured it was important enough to mention. Don't know if was or not.

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    Hey that's what I thought it was too I was going to purchase the board but I was told it might be the pressure switch. Yes it is a spark ignitor and it is controlled from the board. Which I believed would control everything else in the working sequence. I can get the board at a cost of $170 which is why I came to this website first before purchasing it.

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    Hey its me again the board didn't work. Would like to know could it be the igniter the place where I purchased the board told me it could be that. Its a 3 wire igniter and they said if its calling for the gas and its not sensing it then it would be bad. Any thoughts?

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    Yes I'm sure it was the valve because I put my hand on it and I could feel it. It was replaced 2 years ago and it has a electronic control module in the middle of it controlling the 2 valves.

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    It comes on for about 15 seconds then it goes through the motions of the valve clicking, and the ignitor keeps on clicking also all while the pilot light stays on. But the ignitor clicking and the valve clicking are two different clicks. If that makes sense.

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    Yes it is the ignitor that is clicking it's an electric current jumping across.

    As for the board there is no identification mark on who the it except this number which was on the back it is 1010-93-9192a

  • playground2 Feb 04, 2009

    Model #58ssbc8c-cc

    Series #100

    Serial #3287c89149

  • playground2 Feb 06, 2009

    Hey I don't know who you are but I want to thank you for help over the last few days. However nothing worked. I decided to just leave it off and use space heaters.I would like to have worked on it longer but I'm going back to Fllorida this morning. I guess I'll just have to leave it to the junk yard and buy a new furnce come spring. If you have any suggestions on what make I should buy please let me know. I take anything into cosideration. Thanks again. Patrick


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I think water has entered into the knobs or near the igniter connections, that is why the connections are getting short and it is clicking continuosly

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Feb 04, 2009

    Use a blower or hair dryer to blow out the moisture and it will definetly work fine. Also clean all the connections and see whether for any shorted wires or connections


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Check that the inlet filter screen to the gas valve is not plugged.

You have to turn the gas off, then remove the fitting at the inlet to the valve. I've had this happen before, especially if a copper line was used (hopefully not, as this is totally a No-No.).

Reply back what you find. It could be a bad valve, and I will need to know whose valve it is (Honeywell, White-Rogers, etc.) and P/N's on the valve.

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

  • 13 more comments 
  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Are you getting any blink codes on the controller circuit board (or is this unit just a little older than that?)?

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    OK, I found a manual for that furnace.

    Is the draft inducer blower running?

    Have you check that there is not a little piece of trash inside the inducer motor housing that might be partially blocking the rubber tube, or even worked it's way up inside of the tube?

    The manual didn't have a wiring diagram, and I don't know for sure if the pressure switch is wired normally closed, held open, or normally open held closed. See if you can tell, and defeat the logic to see if the valve will light.

    I assume your on natural gas, correct?

    Do you know what your gas pressure is?

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Presently, does the draft inducer ever run?

    Normal sequence for draft inducers is they come on before the gas valve to purge the heat exchanger. The pressure switch tells the control board that the inducer fan is running, giving the OK to turn on the main gas valve, provided a pilot is detected.

    Can you give me the make and model number of the controller board? I need to see what it's sequence of operation is and connection points are?

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Sorry. Have been digging to see if I could find anything on this furnace (did find the manual, but manual doesn't help.). Hamilton Test Systems was spun off back in the 80's (I think it was), and I can't find anything on the controller board.
    Temporarily jumper the pressure switch and see if the gas valve will open on a call from the T-stat. Something is acting funny here.

    Was I correct that the draft inducer ran prior to call for main gas valve?

    The airpax relay must be a part of the controller board?

    And you said you replaced a board last year, but not this one ("because the solenoids went out")?

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Based on what your saying right now, I am leaning toward that board being a problem.

    As I mentioned before, the sequence of operation is pretty much the same for all of these systems.

    And I just noticed in some of your previous postings -

    The draft inducer motor is the small blower on the front of the furnace that should run prior to pilot ignition. The fan or air blower is the one that comes on shortly after the main gas valve opens and the heat exchanger warms up.

    Is your unit used spark ignition? And is the ignition module separate from the control board that controls the startup/shutdown sequence? If so, I'll track a board down for you. If not, I'll need to know more.

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Well, I'll support your decision at this point (at least from a distance, and based on what I can see looking through these teeny tiny wires to see what you are seeing.).

    Let me know if it works.

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Yes, but it seems odd that you are hearing a clicking sound from the valve. That would indicate to me the board is OK, and telling the valve to open, although the board only sends one continious signal, not a pulsing signal, to the valve (so does not explain ticking.).

    Are you sure it was the valve going tick, tick?

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    If it's a three wire ignitor, are there three probes that you can see where the pilot flame lights up? (If it's three, I would guess ground, spark, and sense).

    Does the pilot flame remain on, or does it go off after say 1-2 minutes?

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Does the ignitor really click? Or is it something the ignitor attaches to, like a circuit board of some type?

    Can you ID the circuit board or controller that drives the gas valve (I think that's the board you replaced a year or two ago)?

  • Mark Egan Feb 04, 2009

    Give me the full model number of the furnace.

    I finally found the gas valve. And the furnace was probably built in 1987 date code you gave 8718, is the 18th week of 1987).

    I've found some controller boards but none with numbers like you gave. I have also found where Carrier has developed a kit where they can decrease the number of boards they need to keep in stock. But still have not identified yours.

  • Mark Egan Feb 05, 2009

    Yaaaaa-heeeeeeee! I found a wiring diagram. Give me a bit to figure it out, and I'll get back to you.

  • Mark Egan Feb 05, 2009

    OK, looked the wiring diagram over, and the guy at the store is probably correct. It's a 3 wire device, connected to a SPDT heat sensitive switch. Normally closed is YEL/GRN, Normally Open is YEL/WHT. I had read somewhere that you can tap on the pilot assembly with a plastic handled screwdriver one the pilot has been lit a few moments, and if the gas valve opens, then that's the problem.

    I'm pretty confident in this one being the culprit. I hate that you had to ge tthe controller board, but fhese old furnaces are difficult because the manufacturers had to scamper to meet DOE requirements back then. Even Carrier now has a retro kit for the boards because it was just too hard to keep up with all the different versions.

  • Mark Egan Feb 06, 2009


    I hate that we couldn't get it fixed, but sometimes it's hard to see the obvious over these teeny tiny wires.

    Back in the day when I used to put equipment in, I preferred Rheem/Ruud. I have not serviced or installed any of it in the past 10 years, but furnace design is pretty striaght forward. I've got 2 Rheems in my house that have worked flawless for the past 10 years.

  • Mark Egan Feb 06, 2009

    Oh, and thanks for the pat on the back! HVAC is a business I have a passion for.

  • Brandon Carmany
    Brandon Carmany Jan 23, 2014

    I am having the same exact problem with my Carrier super saver with the white rogers 36e valve


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