Question about Maytag Legacy MAV208DAWW Top Load Washer

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I think the brake squeaks on agitation cycle with FULL load.

I cant figure out how to get any corn starch between the brake and big aluminum casting with front cover off. Do I need to pull the drum? please tell me there is an easier way. thankx!
Billy

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The brake assembly is accessed from underneath the machine with the pulley removed and requires a special tool to compress the 150lb compression spring in order to remove the brake stator. This tool can be purchased from an appliance parts retailer.

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

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MAV-3 top load washer makes loud squeaky noise during the wash cycle.


Is it a constant squeak or does it go squeak-squeak - squeak as it agitates? It is a squeak that is intermittant then usually your brake is losing its hold. You will need a technician to do this job. It requires special tools that they should have. I repeat a technician should do this job. You can seriously hurt yourself attempting this repair. Also see if the inner tup is turning as it agitates, if it is then it i definately the brake. But one more time do not try this repair it is a dangerous repair that should be left to technicians. There is a spring that is under heavy compression that requires a tool to release it.

Dec 28, 2010 | Maytag MAV6200 Top Load Washer

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

Just go to these fields and select the following:

Brand: Maytag
Appliance Type: Washing Machine
Part Type: Tool

The list of all Maytag tools will appear.

NOTE: To save a few extra dollars, you can remove the 6 10-24 machine bolts, that hold the brake stator housing, one at a time and replace them with 10-24 x 2" machine bolts. Once all the original bolts are removed, back out the 2" machine bolts evenly, keeping the brake stator housing aligned but slowly releasing the pressure from the 200 lb spring.

After replacing the snubber ring, the brake and the brake stator housing, use the 2" long machine screws again to pull the unit together. Once all assembled, replace the 2" bolts with the original 10-24 X 1/2" machine bolts.

I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Washing Machines

Tip

Maytag Washer Squeaking Problem


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

I hope you find these instructions helpful.


on Feb 09, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Brake Squeal on Maytag MAV5000 AWW


Here's the same advice I gave another person with a similar problem to yours. The squealing can be caused by the brakes, or a worn snubber. It's usually a combination of BOTH. Since you may have to take the to disassemble the unit to repair, it only makes sense to replace the snubber as well. The part costs less than $10 in most cases.

The following link explains the problem you are having with your Maytag:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r387833-maytag_washer_squeaking_problem

It is common for the brakes on Maytag top loaders to wear and make noise, as well, as the snubber. There is a helpful tip that you can try to quieten the noise if it is the snubber by using corn starch. DO NOT oil it, or lubricate with any petroleum based products! This will ruin the unit and actually make the problem worse. NOTE: If the snubber is excessively worn, it was also cause vibration on the spin cycle.

If the brakes are worn, however, you can put a light film of oil on the brake pad. It is common for the pad to collect moisture in humid and damp climates and start to squeak against the brake stator. The brake pad consists of a rotor with a leather edge (pad). The leather can absorb moisture and begin to squeak against the brake stator. Oiling it slightly will get rid of the noise.

Confused? If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information useful.

NOTE: There is a follow-up comment at the bottom of the link I provided from another user. The method this person used to release the tension on the brake can save you from having to purchase the brake release tool.

NOTE: You cannot access the brake pad or snubber by simply removing the front of the washer. You can SEE them, but you won't have full access until you disassemble the washer as outlined in the link I provided.

Feb 24, 2009 | Maytag Dependable Care LAT9706

1 Answer

My maytag washer won't turn or spin..


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jan 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag legacy series washer top load-squeaky during wash and rinse


very possible if squeaks in agitation top springs that hold tub needs greased under spring & plastic shield under spring. had same problem on big front loaders whirlpool

Aug 31, 2008 | Maytag MAH2400A Front Load Washer

2 Answers

LEAKS AND SQUEAKS


If you suspect the leak is from the main drum seal.
To remove the agitator, remove the softener cap by pulling, look inside the agitator, undo the bolt (4) with long socket extension and then lift out.
5e90500.jpg Not sure if you can see the seal ("O" ring at this point, you may need to remove the inner drum.
Isolate the supply.
Lift the top cover by inserting a flat blade approx 4" in at each side at the front to release the two top clips, top cover will lift and hinge backwards out of the way.
To remove the top ring (13) from the drum, unclip each clip around the top untill released, then remove.
to remove the inner drum (10) , unbolt (7) from the inside, lift out inner drum.
d733834.jpg
Seal (1) should be visible.
a12ab0a.jpg

Mar 24, 2008 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

3 Answers

Squeaking Top Load GE Washer


I bought a new GE Washer GTWN5050MWS yesterday. From the first load it squeaked each time the tub moved back and forth (no agitator in the infusion type) It is a quick squeak and kind of resembles a cat getting it's tail under a moving rocking chair. I checked the entire owners manual and it describes several noises and not one of them describes what my new washer is doing. It does not make this sound except for when it is in the wash cycle. Spinning is quiet, and during the agitation of the rinse cycle it is a much more subdued squeak. But during the wash cycle it is not acceptable.

I called GE this morning and they told me it was normal operation for all infuser types of their washer to make this noise. Tomorrow I will be taking it back for a full refund.

We purchased this machine because our 2-year old front loading GE washer broke down (discharge pump I think) and to get it fixed usually takes a couple of weeks. We thought it might be better to have a 2nd washing machine instead of paying the laundry mat. It took a month to get the last one declared unfixable in 2008. Maybe I was wrong. But this is very bad luck to have a brand new washing machine squeak so loud out of the box.

Mar 15, 2008 | GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Maytag Atlantis Washing Machine


The loud squeak at the end of the spin cycle is usually attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is to get rid of most noise related problems (this will be the bottom round plate where it meets the casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking (causing movement of the washer) went the spin cycle stops. I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator: 1057484 Price: $7.45
Brake Rotor and Lining: 1032674 Price: $16.70
Snubber: 1055142 Price: $4.35
Brake Removal Kit: 997909 Price: $99.40*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself. NOTE: There should be a warning label explaining this

You can find all your parts and information at repairclinic.com. Just type in your model number in the search menu.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can be a bit pricey. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommended to the average do-it-yourselfer. Maytag is real good about providing the necessary instructions with their parts, however.

In summary this job involves the following steps:

1. Removal of the front case to access the washer interior.
2. Removal of the drive belt and pulley from underneath the washer.
3. Removal of the drain hoses from the wash tub.
4. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
5. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring.

Now, I am summarizing this job quite a bit. If this is something you wish to try to repair yourself, and you need more instructions, let me know. I hope this helps you.

Feb 09, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Spining and fluff problem


You have a bad brake assembly. Sometimes you can turn washer upside down and access the white pad and sand it and the metal stator. Then dump corn starch in there to help release.

May 07, 2007 | Maytag Performa PAV3200

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