Haven't used this camera in over 10 years. Using digital camera mostly. Needed my macro lens on the Canon AE-1 to get a tight, up close shot of my subect. Camera wouldn't work. Played with it, without any success. bought new battery, no luck. The film advance is partially advanced (and stuck). I can't see the normal info that should be visable in the view finder. Any suggestions?
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Re: Can't advance film, press shutter, no result
Do you have film in the camera? If so, is it an old film or you have just loaded it?
If it's an old film, could it be at the end of the roll - to check this, 'lightly' turn the rewind lever backwards and forwards. As the camera is pointing away from you, turning the rewind knob clockwise will normally rewind the film (don't press the rewind button in, we don't actually want to rewind the film yet), turning the knob clockwise should be tight and a firm stop, if the film is at the end, you will feel the same tight firm stop if you turn it counter-clockwise. Don't turn the rewind knob backwards (counter-clockwise) too hard, you'll unscrew it and it may fall apart. If turning it backwards rolls freely in a full circle, then you have film left.
Another option is that, since it's been so long since you used it, the loading of the film may have gone amis and sometimes the cassette will flip backwards, jamming the film in place so it wont advance - if you have loaded the film and not taken any pics or have not been able to advance it at all, it should be safe to open the back as the film will be in it's original loading position, if you have left the film in it from some time and don't know what stage it's up to it may be best to take it to a camera store where they will have a "Black Bag" to put the camera in and manually open and unload the film. Make sure you get an experienced person - some pimply-face teen that's never used a film camera can easily put their fingers through the shutter while it's in the black bag - I've seen it plenty of times.
OK, that's enough to get started, did this work or do we need to try more options?
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I guess it is actually an AE1 and not an EOS, as EOS is a digital camera!
You will have to scrap the film in the camera by opening the back and removing the film. Take out the film can, then pull the film off the take up spool press the windback button on the bottom of the camera. This should get it working again. Try a few shutter releases and wind ons before putting a new film in. If you have important images on the film you don't wan to lose just do the above in complete darkness, and wind the loose film back into the can using the knob at the bottom.
I don't know if you have film in the camera so I'll read the following and choose what works for you.
I will assume the battery is working if applicable.
As stupid as this sounds press the shutter release button. If the shutter is cocked it will hold the advance. I've had people come in with this problem.
If the film rewind has been pressed in it will disengage the film advance and stop the shutter mechanism as a result. Open the camera and close the back again resets the release.
If there is film in the camera remove it.
It there are important photos on the film and your rewind is not working use a coat to make a light proof black box. Just turn the sleeves inside out and put the camera in the coat. Wrap it so as it is closed to light. Open the camera remove the film and roll the film back in by hand.
OK so now we have a camera open with no film in it.
Open the back and look just below the shutter. On one side will be a very small "lever". This tells the camera that the film has been advanced and the shutter is cocked. Gently move the lever to the right. It should click. Now try pressing the shutter release. Note that without film in the camera some cameras will not advance the shutter.
It should clear the problem.
If not something physical in jamming.
The film advance system could be jamming. On the side the film advance is on there will be a plastic "gear" inside the camera. Try moving by hand it should turn. You can reset the shutter this way.
Give this a try.
Hope this is helpful, if it gives you some direction please rate this answer.
Camera has a bad magnet, the A series were plagued by this. Repairs will cost more than probably what it's worth. The AE-1's used an electromagnet system to activate the shutter for a smoother press and less shake from the camera system.
I got lucky and recently purchased an AE-1 program that doesn't have this problem, it seems to be a hit and miss with these.
If you are getting some photos where only part of the image is visible, then I suspect that they were photos where you used a flash.
Cameras have a specified maximum shutter speed for use with a flash, this is called its 'sync speed'. This is the fastest speed that the camera will need to open the lead shutter and close the trailing shutter in order to expose the entire surface area of the image and have it evenly lit by the flash unit. If you shoot too fast of a speed, then the shutter will only be partly completed its exposure and you'll get a photo with only part of the image showing. The faster the speed past the sync speed, the less the resulting area of the image. Most cameras will have a sync speed of 1/250 or less. I think a lot of the Rebel models are 1/90 - consult your manual.
In most film cameras, a battery is not necessary to manual advance film
using the lever. Your Canon AV-1 is no exception. I have owned two
cameras from the same group, the AE-1 and the Canon A-1. Neither
required a battery for manual film advance.
Make sure the ring around the shutter release button is set to "A",
otherwise the shutter won't release and the film lever won't work
correctly. If the ring shows an "L", the shutter release is locked.
Here's a graphic of the batteries that can be used in your AV-1:
Honestly, I just got a T70 on ebay for $15. Sounds like it's time to move on. I had an AE-1 for over 10 years but it just wasn't working and one has to weigh the cost of repair, the cost to replace it or upgrade to a modest digital camera.
Your Nikon is a SLR which stands for single lens reflex. The reflex part is the way the mirror that lets you look through the lens to frame the picture flips up to let the light go straight to the film. You can change the lens half way through the film roll because the mirror is down while you change the film and blocks light from getting to the film, just as it blocks the light until you push the shutter button. Have fun with your 'new' camera! I use an even older style Nikon FE2. I like my Nikon 55mm macro lens but your newer camera takes autofocus lenses so you'll need advice from someone else for that.
The shutter parts are most likely broken. That is usually the tell-tale sign of a broken camera, not advancing. Repairs for film cameras are very expensive and if parts are needed, it may be impossible for a 20+ year old camera. My suggestion is to find a replacement film camera system. Your Ricoh lenses will fit on a Pentax camera, but not work in Auto Mode. Prices of used Pentax cameras with built in motor drives are around $100. Check on line cameras stores. They have lots of use cameras/lense. A lens to use on that is another $75 or so. Only Nikon and Canon make new film cameras anymore. If you want an indestructable K-mount, find a Pentax K1000. Many lenses are available but no motor drive nor auto exposure on that model.
Well, I'm not a camera repairman, but it sounds to me (and probably to you too) that the electronics are damaged or perhaps there's dust in the contacts inside. I also have an MZ-50. There's so many electronics involved and they don't age so gracefully. I would consider buying another one off eBay or you can get a ZX-30 (same as MZ-30) for $75 from Blue Moon Camera & Machine with a 1 year warranty (parts and labor). The best way would be, in my opinion, to get a manual, mechanical camera from the 1970s and put a good lens on it. Those seem to last forever. No electronics to worry about. Advance and rewind the film manually. You can use a digital camera as a light meter to set the aperture and shutter speed. I'm thinking of going this route when my MZ-50 finally conks out.