New control board took two weeks. F&P neglected to tell repair firm that new drain pump would be much longer. It is now four weeks and counting. F&P Customer Care says parts are almost always in stock and ship out the next day from California. Just as I received this nice soothing email, the repair firm called and said F&P told them the end of next week at the soonest. I think F&Ps business plan is "Sell it and forget it". Posted by PJFinMd
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Hello. Ok...after studying the service manual/exploded parts diagram, it sounds like you have a defective main control board. Is the unit draining all the water out? You said "they replaced a cracked housing"--exactly what was replaced--the tub, or drain pump? Did the service folks *function test* the machine after the repair to make sure it actually worked properly? If the unit *is* draining out all the water, then I would suspect the control board because it holds the program which tells the washer what to do and for how long. Did you have a power outage recently(3-4 weeks before the problem presented itself)? If so, the main board could have been damaged and the program corrupted by the current surge when power was restored. Here are some part numbers for different components:
137006085 for the control panel board
137108100 for drain pump
There is an error for the main control board in the service manual--I have checked in numerous places for the part number but have been unable to locate it--this unit, to troubleshoot, is INVOLVED and I recommend calling for service--or re-calling the service folks who repaired it originally. I hope I helped you!
The noise coming from underneath is symptom of a problem with drain pump or drain line.
The standard procedure consists in accessing the drain filter to check if it is blocked, then testing drain pump. Most of the time the noise is caused by blockage at drain filter. In some case the pump is gone.
The control panel gets replaced only after checking drain filter, testing drain pump and also after testing the water pressure switch that determines when to start or stop the pump.
ok i can pretty much tell u your exact problem, fisher and paykel top loader washers have this annoying problem that is when/if the drain pump shorts out (not blocked shorting means its dead you need a new one) the current supplied from the control board can backfeed and destroy the control board, unfortunatly quite a common problem for F+P when or if the drain pump shorts to take out the main board, depending on repairer and model of your washer your looking at around 300 bucks roughly including parts labour and what not, i quoted up same parts last week and it came to round 400 but thats for for a top model intuitive design, hope this helped
Does it also sound like the board is clicking?
Your drain pump is bad. The control board is sending power to the drain pump, but the power is not being returned back to the control board to complete the circuit. I actually just diagnose this same exact machine about a week ago. lets just say it took me a while to figure it out.
Remove the cover at the bottom right of the dryer covering drain pump access area. Remove the hex head screw, and slide the bottom panel to the right and remove panel. Disconnect the power going to the drain pump. Turn the washing machine on, Should do the same thing you described above. Using a multimeter, check the power in the plug that you disconnected from the drain pump. Should read 120v. I' betting it will.
St your multimeter to check for resistance or better yet continuity. Touch each lead to the 2 pins on the drain pump. If there is no continuity or no resistance reading, then the drain pump is bad and needs to be changed. Once changed, your washing machine will run like new again.
keep me posted.
I finally solved this same problem on mine error code E59 and the main symptom of the drum never spinning even right at the beginning of the load cycle. I did Test 12 based on the following link: (MAKE SURE THE POWER CORD IS UNPLUGGED TO THE MACHINE)http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Webster/134542000.pdf. I found that the motor was fine which meant the problem was with the speed control board. On my speed control board there are 3 locations that connectors plug into it. Make sure these are all firmly connected. One of the three is a very weak press fit connection clamping over the edge of the circuit board. This had wiggled loose on my machine from all the dancing across the concrete floor in the basement this machine does. I pressed this connection in firmly, put everything back together and it started working like new!
Start checking that water level is OK. If water level is stuck, the machine will keep draining forever. Check that wiring to pump has no contact to ground. If the pumpwiring is fine then it can be wiring to timer control or timer control board. Test and repairs must be done by qualified pesonnel.
Check the water level first, that is the most common cause for this problem.
Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:
Hi just went through the same thing... so you can tell if it is the pump take off back support... run it through a cycle and when it drains you will notice the pump turn on and if the water is leaking from the middle of pump the housing is worn out. You can get the part from appliance desk. Equator sold all of the repair stuff to them . email@example.com ask for Garry don't be suprised if the part is backordered from Italy. It took me 6 weeks to get my part. Good luck happy new year