Question about Kenmore 53082 / 53084 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Kenmore Refrigerator 106.53502300

Two nights ago my wife and I came in the house to a very slight electrical burning smell. We pinpointed it to our Kenmore 2-door and quickly realized that it was also making a clicking sound sporadically. The clicks were coming every 30 seconds to 5 minutes. The unit seems to be cooling both sides and the ice and water are still working as they should. I unplugged the unit fearing that it might cause a fire.

Last night after learning that the clicking is the overload, I plugged it back in to see if it might be overheating. Almost immediately it began clicking again so I don't think that it is a matter of dust or grime overheating it. Also, it again seemed to be blowing cool air, though I didn't let it run long enough to see if was getting down to temp.

Is there a way to determine if it is simply the overload that has gone faulty or if in fact I need a new compressor / unit? Can I allow it to run long enough to see if it is properly cooling without damaging the compressor?

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  • hvac chic Apr 11, 2009

    I have the same model and the relay that plugs on the compressor was bad, completely charred. I wound up purchasing an after market start capacitor type for about $12 from our local refridgeration supply house it has been fine for about a year now.

  • brenmbly
    brenmbly Aug 04, 2013

    We had the same problem. Called sears and repairman did the same.He said all the new models are having this problem and you just replace it and your good to go. it just cost more with the repair man comeing to the house. I renewed the warranty and it saved me the $150 service call and parts. His total was about $230 and the warranty was about $120 and change. Might help

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Sethjames,the relay can fail and the compressor could still be fine.as a serviceman in your home i would pull off the relay and ohm out the compressor.their are three pins.i would put a meter probe to ground[scrape the probe into the metal of the compressor]and then touch each pin with the probe one at a time.you should get no reaction on you meter,if yes, then the internal motor windings are shorted to ground.now if that test's ok,next you put one probe on the common pin[most brands its the top of a triangle formed by the three pins]and the other would go on the start or run pin.the measurements/or readings would be like this if normal.common to start winding from about 1.0 ohms+- maybe .3 ohms,common to run wining about 1.5 ohms+- .3 ohms .the newer more efficient your compressor the lower the numbers the older the unit the higher the numbers,because the energy standards were less .if readings in the 3.0's that's not good [although ive seen boxes that were 15 to 20 years old working fine and were drawing about 4 amps],so resistance,ohms would be higher [dont mean to confuse you there mixing ohms and amps].also if you had an amp probe you could clamp it over one wire and that would tell you how hard the compressor is working.should be about one amp in the run winding[in a newer box]on my truck i carried a universal relay that was rated for certain horse power.it was best for me ,then only needed one part for all makes.wholesale in 2007 it was less than 10$.with on line access it may be just as easy for you to get the original.but i would think twice if cost was quite abit higher.i hope that helps abit ill be there if you need more advise God bless ,tom

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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