An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: DVR-900 blowing Fuse
First check the output transistors for a short, 9 times out of 10 this is the case. Use a multi-meter on resistance. The transistors will have most of the part # on them, usually you just have to add 2S to the front example an "A1519" on the transistor would be a 2SA1519. If one is found to be bad replace it's complement also even if it checks good (unless you have a transistor checker that will check it for leakage). Good Luck.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There must be a diode that is faulty in the power supply section mainly on of the rectifying diodes. If you look closely at your board you will see four diodes that just after the fuse and befroe the Big capaictor(filter cap.) One of these four diodes must be faulty as the fuse keeps blowing. the diodes are responsible of current limitation drawback. So there must be current flowing back to the fuse that makes it keep blowing. Check and replace. Good luck Thanks for using Fixya.
Unplug the unit. Start in the power supply. Unplug any cabling going to the PS Board to minimize erroneous measurements. I am hoping you are technical since you are going to screw around with the electronics so let's get to it. Perform a diode check and capacitive check on main filters to make sure the bridge rectification is good. Next, analyze whatever V (TDA, STK, etc) output module may be on the power supply board (PS).
Should everything look good, keep the cabling off the PS Board but make sure the grounding leads are still tied to it. Replace the fuse with same E and I ratings. Plug in the power supply. Fuse blows? If so, you missed the problem on the PS... go back and run diagnostics (continuity on discretes). If it didn't blow, hook up the cabling the way it was and turn it back on. Fuse blow? More than likely it will be your output transistors. Perform tests while unit is unplugged (diode function).
the problem of the continuos blowing of fuse internally is as a result of a defected component on the pcb board of the recevier .
you can do this by removing the cover of the recevier and check for the power transistor , power capacitor, if is defected with the use of a multimeter, replace for a new one of the same number
This condition, may be produced by defective components (Q506, Q507). you can remove those transistor, replace the fuses, power-on and wait for relays click. if the fuses not blown again, them replace both transistor.
Hi there. From memory they had bridge rectifier problems with them going short circuit. Check them first. Sometimes the toroidal transformer can go a shorted turn, in turn blowing primary fuses. try to soft start it whilst it is blowing fuses, Best bet is to make up a special lead that has a 60w light bulb wired in series with the mains power supply(or across the fuse holdwer that is blowing:). Limits the power in the circuit to ... well you guessed it 60 watts.
You CAN open the unit (keep in mind that even unpluged there is still voltage runing through the system, so.... dont fry) and you will notice, if the face of the unit is towards you you will see on the left hand side a power supply board, the fuse is on that board, and it is a tube fuse, 125V 8A. Most stores do not carry the 125V version anymore, but will carry a 250V. This is okay to use where the voltage is not the main purpose of the fuse.