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If the tub is full of water you need to empty it. A shop vac with the paper filter removed works good. The drain hose is naturally squishy. Likely there is an object like a sock covering the drain hole in the outer tub. If it's jambed tight enough the back pressure from the pump would collapse the hose. If you remove the hose with water in the tub you will make a huge mess when you remove the sock. Can't really say more because the mod # you provided isn't correct. Not sure what's wrong, i've tried several combinations but no luck. Perhaps you could recheck it. Make sure it's the model number from the machine.
Along with checking the drain hose, check the drain port from the tub, something may be blocking the drain and no able to get into the tub, or it may be sucked into the pump. What can happen with a fully loaded machine is, for example, if a small sock happens to be at the top of the load when the spin starts, it can be flung in between the inner perforated drum and the outer. If this gets down to the drain, it may block the drain hole and stay in the drum. It also could get sucked into the drain hose and stay there, or actually get into the pump ... My vote is that it's in the pump, if the pump is humming. Give it another look.
leaks in a washer are often difficult to trace. There are many
possibilities to look for. The problem could be a loose connection, a
broken hose, a cracked component, or a defective seal. It could also be
a hole in the tub. If a hole in the tub is the problem, it's usually
best to replace the washer.
Most leaks can be eliminated by tightening water connections and replacing deteriorated components. To stop a leak:
Step 1: Check the lid seal. If faulty, replace with a new gasket.
Step 2: Check the hoses at faucet connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 3: Check the hoses at water valve connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 4: Check the drain hoses. Tighten connections or replace hoses.
Step 5: Check the inlet nozzles. Tighten connections or replace nozzles.
Step 6: Check the splash guard. Tighten connections or replace.
Step 7: Check any plastic valve. Tighten connections or replace.
Step 8: Check the outlet hose to drain. Tighten connections or replace hose.
Step 9: Check the water pump, using the procedures that follow.
you need to get the drain hose out and lower it into a bucket and let gravity do the rest, all the hose has to be lower than the water level in the machine though, and get the drain pump and sump checked out for blockages after.
If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.
Hi, It is easiest if you have a wet/dry vac and **** the water out of the tub. You can also try and **** the water out of the drain hose and hope the plug is small enough that it breaks lose. The most common place the hose gets plugged is where it narrows after the pump going out the back of the washer. I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
I HAVE AN ATLANTIS MAYTAG WASHER . I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND I SOLVED AS FOLOLWS. REMOVED THE MOTOR, I APPLIED GENERAL PURPOSE GREASE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE SLIDING MOTOR SURFACE PLATE (MOTOR BASE) . THE GRASE HELPS THE MOTOR TO SLIDE BECAUSE AS YOU KNOW THE MOTOR DOES NOT HAVE ANY ADJUSTMENT. TRY IT PLEASE . GOOD LUCK