Question about Sub-Zero 632 / S
If I knew you were going to try to stick me with a cost for this minor info, I never would have even asked the question. I'm sure I going to pay for an answer that could be wrong. And yeah, If I did know the answer, I sure would'nt give it to you for free, so you can go charge the next poor guy for my info. What a skam you guys have going, wow.
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
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Sep 07, 2016 | Refrigerators
Apr 28, 2012 | Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator
Manually starting a 'harvest' cycle:
Two basic designs of domestic, analog icemakers are most common. (Electronic models come & go from time to time - shudder - but we aren't seeing them in great numbers - yet)
Pop the front cover off yours and check the large gear front & center. If the front plate is metal, and you see a Phillips
screw in the center of this gear, that's great - you own a 'microswitch' design. This is one of the most reliable units ever made! Here's what it looks like with the front cover off:
To manually start a cycle, either grasp the ejector and rotate upward (CW fr. front), or use a screwdriver to turn the smaller gear (CCW) if yours has a slot for this. Once you turn it a short distance, you'll hear a little 'click and the unit will start to run. Make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during this test cycle.
If there's no screw, that's OK too, you own a 'modular' unit, and even though we, um, make more income from these <grin>, they're still pretty decent. Here's what a modular looks like with the front cover off:
To start a cycle with this one, don't attempt to turn the gears manually! You'll need a short piece of insulated solid copper wire, 12-14 gauge. (Just strip a 4 in. piece out of some 12-2 'romex' used in house wiring
.) Strip the ends back about ¾ in. and bend it into a 'U' shape. This wire is inserted into the holes marked 'T' and 'H' in the front of the icemaker to bypass the tstat and run a cycle. (don't insert it into any holes except 'T' & 'H' !) Remove the jumper after a few seconds (or the heater will stay on), and let it run, waiting for the fill at the end. Again, make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during your test cycle.
Note: I stress this jumper wire needs to be insulated, because you're briefly jumping 120V here. The usual precautions apply
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