Re: removal of rear wheel on cox stockman ride on mower
These wheels are usually just held on with a Key way, ALOT OF TIME they offer resistance because they are rusted insode the rim and are needing a mallet to hit them from the inside pretty hard.
Turn it as you can usually a lever on the back side of the mower can be pulled out without the brake on to slip the transmission into nuetral. Turn the tire. I have used a small peice of 2x4 as well because a hammer dont fit well. Good luck I will watch this post and search my Diagrams to see if i have this rider tmrw at work.!
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Old question, but maybe this will help others:
Here is the answer for all Cox Stockman machines fitted with a single large bolt through clutch cone. Below it you'll find a VERY GOOD REASON WHY YOU SHOULD NOT DO IT!!!
1. Disconnect the negative (-) lead from the battery.
2. Loosen the four bolts that secure the engine and slide engine backwards.
3. Remove the 'R Clip' on the link rod at the front of the clutch carrier, then disconnect the link rod.
4. Loosen all four grub screws on the drive plates and slide them as far out as you can.
5. Raise the rear of the machine and secure with axle stands or some other method that will leave you with a SAFE WORKPLACE!
6. Remove the 9/16" locknut on the clutch pivot bolt (under the rear of the machine), then unscrew the pivot bolt. Do not try to drive it out with a punch, as it is screwed into the adjusting plate.
7. When bolt is removed, slide the rear of the carrier across to one side and the front of the carrier to the other side ( to clear the bracket at the front of the carrier) and work the whole assembly forward enough to clear the rear chassis rail. Then drop it down and remove the assembly from the machine.
To replace the cone, lock the large bolt head into a vice, then use a 2 or three pronged lock bar to unscrew the pulley from the bottom of the bolt. Then, fit a new cone onto the bolt and reverse teh entire process.
Now, here's why you should NOT DO THIS AT HOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you don't read this part, I absolutely guarantee that it will end up costing you far more money than if you'd sent the machine to a Cox Service agent ( I am one).
About the only thing on any Cox machine that requires specialist knowledge and tooling to correctly repair, is the drive cone clutch system. Removing and replacing the drive cone itself is the easiest part of the process and I have seen it done by plenty of people. I've also spent plenty of time then fitting another new cone to their machine, because the one they put on is now stuffed. The drive cone is just one part of an assembly and if the entire job is not done correctly the FIRST TIME, the new cone can be destroyed in a very short time. And the only way to do the entire job correctly is to have the special tools and knowledge. No if's, no but's and no maybe's!
You will have to put it on ramps or find some way to get it off teh ground so you can get under the deck. The blades will have 1 large nut that you need to remove and thats it. Just take the nut off replace the blade and put the nut back on.
Yes, Undo the 32mm nut, first.
And, don't get the bearings dirty with dust from the brake drums, or , if you do, replace the inner and outer bearings with new greased up ones.REAR DRUM BRAKES Brake Drums REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Brake linings contain asbestos. Asbestos is a known cancer-causing agent. When working on brakes, remember that the dust which accumulates on the brake parts and/or in the drum contains asbestos. Always wear a protective face covering, such as a painter's mask, when working on the brakes. NEVER blow the dust from the brakes or drum.
Raise the vehicle and support safely.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
On vehicles without rear bearing hub, remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut lock, wheel bearing nut and washer from the spindle. Remove the outer wheel bearing. Remove the drum with the inner wheel bearing from the spindle. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes. Remove the grease seal.
If equipped with a rear bearing hub, remove the drum by removing the retainer screws from the drum and pulling the drum from the hub assembly. If the drum is difficult to remove, remove the plug from the rear of the backing plate and push the self adjuster lever away from the star wheel. Rotate the star wheel to retract the shoes.
On vehicles equipped without rear bearing hub, lubricate and install the inner wheel bearing. Install a new grease seal. Install the drum to the spindle. Lubricate and install the outer wheel bearing, washer and nut. Adjust the bearing preload following the procedure outlined in the "Rear Wheel Bearing'' of this section. When the bearing preload is properly set, install the nut lock and a new cotter pin. Install the grease cap.
On vehicles with rear bearing hub, install the brake drum to the hub assembly and install the retaining screws.
Install the wheel and tire assembly. Adjust the rear brakes as required.
Apply the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained, prior to moving the vehicle.
The wheels are not designed for easy removal. You have to pop off the hub cap, remove a retaining ring (which is easier with a special tool), and then pull off the wheel (which may require a special puller tool). So don't do it. Jack up the tractor and you can remove and replace a tire on the rim without taking the wheel off.
Good luck! If this is helpful, please rate my answer, thanks!
Do you have the rim and tire off and you want to remove the hub?
I believe every rider mower and tractor I've had and worked on had the rear tire attached to the hub as in a car, with lug nuts or lug bolts. Check to see if there are four or five lug bolts that hold the rim onto the hub.