My 3 year old Kenmore (model 790.90102) has 4 burners. None of them is calibrated correctly, one is really off. On settings from 1 to 9 (9 being high), at 9 the elements are red hot, at eight or seven they are below medium and won't even hold a slow boil unless the pot is covered. Any chance this is fixable?
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Typically the light is a function of the selector so as long the position of the knob is to the on position it will be on. in order for the burners to work you'll have to replace the connectors, so full current can go through them. also the self cleaning feature refers to the oven meaning you can lock it, turn it to clean and it will get so hot that the build up on the inside will get flaky and then you can clean it once it cools off. I've never seen one that work that well, but it has nothing to do with the glass there is cleaners that you can "rub" kind of like waxing a car and if you have build up on the glass or burned food you can scrape it with a razor laying flat on the glass and scrape the cleaner around will eventually it will peel off.
I have the same problem, it turns out that the clock has a sensor in it to turn on the oven. If that sensor is not working, which is found in the clock, the oven does not work. I had a repair guy come out and it will cost 350.00 to repair. My stove is only six years old. It is only two months to the day off warranty. Apparently a power outage can cause the sensor to go. Hope this helps.
Tony, this sounds like you may need to have a new burner switch installed, it is called an infinite switch. If it is for the dual burner, make sure you tell the appliance parts store this so they can order you a dual infinite switch.
Check the thermal fuses / sensors mounted on the top exterior of the heating chamber and also the heating element. Both accessible from the rear of the oven. The element is most likely to have gone. It will be a 2 or 3 turn coil type with the fan mounted to the middle of it or a flat element with no fan. You will need to check the number of turns of the coiled element and also the mounting holes to ensure you get the right type. Turn off the mains power at the breaker or distribution point. You can get to the element behind the rear plate of the oven cavity by removing the side shelf slides, and rear panel by undoing the securing screws on the plate (2 or 4 depending on the exact model you have). Often a good idea to take a photo of the element mounting and take the model and serial no of the oven so that you can take this to the domestic appliance shop or email it to an online supplier to make sure that the element they supply is correct for your exact oven.
Just a guess. There may be a temp sensor in the oven that tells the element to turn off when it is hot enough. If this is gone the element will not heat. It is 4 or 5 inches long and sticks through from the back of the stove. Try turnig on the element and then tap this thing with a wooden spoon. If it begins working you know what needs to be placed.
It could be that the sensor wire that controls the main gas valve is out of position. It should sit in the pilot light flame.
Look, and adjust if needed.
If it's ok, then you need a replacement main gas safety valve.
This should only be fitted by qualified personnel.
They do give up eventually after years of heating, and fail safe.
is the control electronic wih a dial or the whole manual if you can answer me with the model number i can look it up there will be a serial plate some where on the front of the oven most of the time you open the bottom drawer mod#is a bunch of numbers like 106.48062890 should be able to help more after that