I'm using a Berkel 827 and the top wheel doesn't spin while sharpening. When I removed the sharpener to check the wheel, it spins fine, but not when I go to sharpen the blade. This is a slicer I'm using in a rig camp, so no manual available. Please help!
Your grinding stone stud is more than likely frozen try and lossen it up with a little penetrating oil take the sharpener off and work both stone back and forth untill they are both spinnig freely and remember do not apply either sharpening wheel on the knife for more than 5 seconds at a time you can burn the wheel and then it will never get sharp
Hi, there could be one of two things ,the blade could be cocked ,maybe a little dirt under it making it run out of center. or the stone is out of round ,some body could have run it against the blade to hard and ground a minute flat spot in it.coop1934
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Knife sharpeners are a way of preserving knives and other such tools that have become blunt with use and therefore less effective.
Sharpeners work by grinding the knife against a hard, rough surface. Usually stone is the most common type of sharpener but sandpaper (which has a soft surface but is hard), can also be used.
You can take your knives to a knife shop where they will sharpen them for you (on average once a year), but if you are a keen knife user and want to keep your knives sharp and in excellent condition, it might be worth buying a sharpener of your own.
To sharpen your own knives you’ll need to invest in a good whetstone. These are stones that are available in fine, medium and coarse grits.
The sharpener will come with instructions about the angle you need to place the knife at in order to sharpen it.
You can also buy stones for polishing and to complete the job properly, after you have sharpened your knife, you should polish it.
The website says to check and make sure its not jammed with pencil lead or something else. unplug it take the shavings bin out and flip it upside down so you can look into the sharpeners. Rotate them by hand till you can see the open side of the blade then use a unfolded paper clip and slide it in the path the pencil would usually take. This should knock anything loose the would be jammed in there. If it passes through to where you can see the point you should be clear. If you didn't dislodge anything or it still doesn't sharpen but the blades spin when you try to use the sharpener, then there is a tab that can get jammed back that needs to be in the foreword position. The tab is located where the tip of the pencil would point if it was actually being sharpened. if you run the paper clip through the machine (just like when trying to dislodge something) the tip of the clip will touch the tab. make sure its not jammed back (away from the opening/pencil) it should be as far forward as possible for the blades to engage. I hope this helps! This has been jammed many times by pencil shavings or gunk on my wife's (elementary school teacher) pencil sharpener.
Most likely, the blades were not adequately sharpened. To effectively sharpen these type blades, you need a special sharpening wheel designed for this task. If you have attempted to sharpen them on a sharpening stone or other device or you are not sufficiently knowledgeable in sharpening these blades, you probably have not satisfactorily sharpened them. Often, attempting to sharpen without the correct equipment makes them worse than when you started.
If you require professional sharpening, please see clipperparts.com
I believe you mean to say a 'reel' mower. Normally and old fashoined push (non-engine powered) mower.
Most consumer reel mowers do not need to be sharpened. They do however have a knife bed that occasionally needs to be adjusted. It should have the thickness of a regular piece of notebook paper between the blades and the knife bed. (that is really VERY close) You can buy 'lapping compound' from an automotive parts store, and apply that to the bed knife, and then rotate the blades to provide a precise fit for all blades.
Commercial reel mowers, such as those used on golf course equipment are however sharpened normally once or twice a year. It requireds dismantling, and many courses send their blades to a central location for golf equipment, where they are placed on a computer operated sharpener for precision grinding. This cost several hundreds of dollars just for the grinding.
The stone that sharpens the back bevel is used for more time, but use grind for minimal amount of time, 30-40 seconds sounds extreme to me. The stone for the top surface of the blade is only pressed briefly to remove the slight burrs from sharpening on the back side of the blade.
Maintenance (excluding the power plant) Your primary maintenance concern with chippers and shredders is their knives. You can re-sharpen chipper knives, whereas you can reverse shredder flail-type knives when dull but you can not re-sharpen them.
You must sharpen chipper knives with special sharpening equipment because they are made of high-carbon steel. Maintaining sharp knives can lengthen their life and the life of the machine by keeping power requirements low. An over-dulled or chipped chipper knife will need extensive sharpening, which will remove a large portion of the blade. This obviously will shorten its life. As soon as a blade is slightly dull, you should sharpen it to minimize the amount of blade-material that you remove. All knives need sharpening at the same time to keep them in balance-even if only one is worn or chipped. Also, you must use matched sets to keep the knife the same distance from the anvil for proper chipping and feeding. After removing the knives, clean the area where they are fastened with a wire brush to make sure they will align correctly. Be sure to torque the knife bolts to their proper specifications. You will need to examine the anvil and be sure it maintains a good, square edge. Occasionally, you may need to remove and sharpen it.