I have a 115 remington that runs, until the upper cover is on
I checked the usual ,eg. photo cell , igniter, not sure about the pressure setting, the problem is when i put the the shroud ( top hood ) over it . it dies, runs fine without the hood. any suggestions? thanks , jim
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Re: i have a 115 remington that runs, until the upper...
I would say that it's definitly not getting enough air to fuel mix. Check all of your filters and the air supply line that gous from the motor to the fuel nozzle. They tend to get hot and brittle over time and even the smallest leak will shut the system down. Also check the high heat limit switch, it looks like a thick watch battery, take it off and hold a lighter under it, if you hear it click it's working, if not it's most likely the problem. There is no real way to check the CAD flame sensor, they can look fine and still be faulty.
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Goodman have troubleshooting idiot lights on the board. Look for flashes and count em. The flash explanations are printed on the backside of the blower cover on most models. A sampling of various failure codes on a furnace:
Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.
Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.
Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.
Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.
Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.
Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.
Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.
See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.
Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.
Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.
Remove the top of the heater. Watch out for the fan and turn the heater on. Make sure the igniter is working and use a flashlight to check for fuel spraying from the nozzle. If Fuel isn't spraying remove the nozzle and clean it. You should be able to see a light through the hole. Check the fuel filter and clean or replace if necessary. If these are OK and you still don't have fuel flow, check the air pressure. There are 2 plugs in the filter cover on the back of the fan motor. One has a hole in the center and is used to adjust air pressure. Install a guage in the other one. The pressure you want is listed on the data label of the heater.
If the igniter isn't working, check the flame sensor. It is a photo type sensor. Use a soft rag or cotton swab to clean the eye. You can test the eye with an ohmmeter. Connect it to the leads of the sensor. Cover the sensor and you should read around 4500 ohms. Uncover it and let light in and it should read 200-300 ohms.
Let me know what you find if this doesn't get you going and I can give you some more things to check. If it does get you going, please be sure to rate the answer and leave testimonial.
The R100 is a kerosene heater and the RLP100 is a propane heater so I am not sure when one you have. If it is kerosene then you may need to check the pump pressure. Also the Safety swith can give you a cut out after 30 seconds.
If the unit is Propane then you could have a bad control board or a flame sensor.
You can call our service department at 1-800-475-5660
If the flames actually starts but the unit shuts off after 5 seconds you need to check the pump cover on your heater to make sure you have no cracks in the rear cover. This could be from low pump pressure but most often this problem is caused from a defective control board.
very rarely it's the circut board.most likely it will be the photo cell.does you photo cell have one blue wire and one white wire????or is it two blue wires,they are two differant photo cells.if it's two blue wires you nee to check the air pressure.it's very important.if the pressure is wrong it will not work properly.you need a gauge to check it.
1st check to see if you have spark, 2nd check the pump pressure using the correct pressure gauge, the pressure should be 5.1 psi for model 115. if little or no pressure you may have a air line leak or a defective rotor. if you do have pressure you may have a plugged nozzle. i hope this helps.
Furnace fails to operate.
• Integrated control module
diagnostic LED is
flashing ONE (1) flash.
• Furnace lockout due
to an excessive
number of ignition
“retries” (3 total)1.
• Failure to establish flame.
Cause may be no gas to
burners, front cover
pressure switch stuck open,
bad igniter or igniter
alignment, improper orifices,
or coated/oxidized or
improperly connected flame
• Loss of flame after establishment.
Cause may be
interrupted gas supply, lazy
burner flames (improper gas
pressure or restriction in flue
and/or combustion air
piping), front cover pressure
switch opening, or improper
induced draft blower
• Locate and correct gas
• Check front cover
operation (hose, wiring,
Correct if necessary.
• Replace or realign
• Check flame sense
signal. Sand sensor if
coated and/or oxidized.
• Check flue piping for
length, elbows, and
• Verify proper induced
draft blower performance.
the air pressure is not correct on either units.the photo cell DOES NOT look for light any more,it count the light flashes.if the flame is not in the right possition the heater will shut down....after the unit ignites the ignitor is no longer used to keep the unit working,just the fuel that is being fed to the flame ball.that's why the pressure is so inportant.......