Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

6 Answers

GE refrigerator GSS25JFMCWW, Serial # DD250113, freezer broken

I have had a freezer problem for 4 months, the repair guy has charged me 400+ dollars for several remedies that have not produced the correct results. It still doesn't consistently freeeze water, it works on a cylindrical basis. It will work fine for a week then it will shut down for a day, then it will work fine for a while then shut down for a day. It thaws all the food, and melts all the ice, and I end up with water on the floor and bad food. This happens all the time and the repair dude doesn't know how to fix it. So far he's replaced a solenoid, a computer board. It was bought new in 2002, can you help me?

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  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    I have had a freezer problem for 4 months, the repair guy has charged me 400+ dollars for several remedies that have not produced the correct results. It works on a cylindrical basis. It will work fine for a week then it will shut down for a day, then it will work fine for a while then shut down for a day. It thaws all the food, and melts all the ice, and I end up with water on the floor and bad food. This happens all the time and the repair dude doesn't know how to fix it. So far he's replaced a solenoid, a computer board. It was bought new in 2002, can you help me?

  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    I have had a freezer problem for 4 months, the repair guy has charged me 400+ dollars for several remedies that have not produced the correct results. It works on a cylindrical basis. It will work fine for a week then it will shut down for a day, then it will work fine for a while then shut down for a day. It thaws all the food, and melts all the ice, and I end up with water on the floor and bad food. This happens all the time and the repair dude doesn't know how to fix it. So far he's replaced a solenoid, a computer board. It was bought new in 2002, can you help me?

  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    It is a side by side with ice and water threw the door. The Whole freezer shuts down for a day or two then comes back on, all the food spoils and water is on the floor. I don't know any more than what I said about the parts that have been replaced. This happens all the time.

  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    The refrigerator half doesn't have a problem, it's only on the freezer half.

  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    This sounds like it might be the problem, but the mother board was reoplaced, what i read was that tjhe newer friges have mother boards, ..do they also have the defrost timer?

  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    There is also excessive frosting in the back of the freezer.

  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    Don't know if the defrost timer will fix it but upon more research it sounds the most likely. Thanks.

  • tom_frazier2 Feb 03, 2009

    Any more suggestions out there?

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6 Answers

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Your described problem leads me to suspect that the issue is most likely with the compressor and/or its attendant components, not unless there would also be no lights when the freezer fails to work.

  • If there is also no light when the freezer fails, then the problem would be on the supply of power from the mains. Checking would start from the breakers, the outlet, the plug, the cord, and the connection point inside the unit;
  • If there is still light when the freezer fails, then suspects would be:
  1. main electronics control board (unlikely since new but still a possibility);
  2. thermal sensor (least likely);
  3. motor overload (likely);
  4. compressor itself (likely);
  5. compressor relay (most likely).
  • Other than the compressor (which would need a clamp ammeter), all cited parts could easily be checked with a continuity tester. Additionally, the same tester (preferably a DVM/VOM) could be used to check for the presence or absence of voltage on critical components (as mentioned above) to determine if it is a component failure or absence of electrical power to said component that causes the freezer not working.
Would appreciate updates if and when available. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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What you have described is a defrost circuit issue as once the unit thaws out, it then works again for a few days or week.

Defrost circuit issues are caused by 1 or more of the following -

Bad defrost thermostat - mounted on evaporator
Bad defrost heater - mounted on evaporator, or
Bad defrost timer

The first two items are easily checked with an ohm meter, particularly the defrost heater. The defrost thermostat is harder to test because at room temperature, the stat will be open. It only closes at a low temperature.
The defrost timer "may" be a part of the controller board you say he replaced.
Since the main control board had been replaced, then I would be suspect of one of the other two. This is assuming, of course, that the evaporator fan is running. And with a box only 7 years old, I doubt that ti will be running slower than it should (but anything is possible.).

Have the tech confirm the defrost heater is good, and to either replace, or test (somehow) the defrost thermostat. Or, better yet, find a tech who knows how to stand good on his work, and not just replace parts.

Please reply if you have nay questions. I used to teach this stuff at college level, and while I may not be up on the latest controller boards, I do know how to research their operation, and know how to "work the problem" without taking wild guesses as to what is causing the unit failure.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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This is caused by a malfunctioning defrost timer(the defrost timer runs off a small motor)and compressor relay.When they work together as they should,The defrost timer prevents the compressor from starting during the defrost cycle and immediately start when the defrost cycle has ended.when a malfunction occurs in the timer it prevents the relay from starting the compressor until the timer complete it's 24 hour cycle.Normally in a 24 hour cycle the defrost would allow for about 25 minutes of defrost.

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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There are 2 things I can think of that can cause this problem first and least expensive is possibly bad temperature sensors in the unit. theses should have been replaced when the board was replaced but allot of service companies will overlook these but they are a possibilty. the next thing that i can think of is what is called a floating sealed system restriction. what will happen is moisture will get into the freon system and then the moisture will freeze at the capillary tube causing the refrigerant not to flow. then what happens everything warms up until the next def cycle or you turn refrige off wait several minutes and turn it back on this allows the ice toe melt away and the unit reumes normal operation until next time it freezes. this is very random and hard to pinpoint. both of these repairs need qualified and hopefully expereinced technicians to diagnose and repair properly. thanks peyton

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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  • peyton thompson
    peyton thompson Feb 03, 2009

    ok, this points more and more to the sensors I am talking about. if you will look on the inside wall of the freezer section you will find an oval grille peice that is made into the wall first make sure there is no ice build up around this grille this would defintely cause the unit to have temp problems. if it is clear then I would recommend replacing this part it just snaps out of the wall then you will see a pill shaped peice with 2 wires attached to it. this is fairly easy to replace heres the part number WR55X10025 available thru ge or any online parts dealer. thx peyton

  • peyton thompson
    peyton thompson Feb 03, 2009

    no the timer is built into the mother board.

  • peyton thompson
    peyton thompson Feb 03, 2009

    the defrost timer for this unit is located on the motherboard which has already been replaced. so you need to look for a different defrost component being bad. you can remove the rear evaporator cover in the freezer compartment and check your heaters and defrost thermostat. the defrost thermostat should read infinity on an ohm meter while the sensor is frozen. the heater you can visibly see if its bad beacuase it is enclosed in a glass tube and you can see if its burnt and or broken. peyton

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  • 318 Answers

There are several things that can cause this type of failure. could you be more specific on the 2 parts he put on? was it a dispenser door flap solenoid and the computer board in the back of the unit or inside the dispenser area?
first i want to know if your freezer fan is running at full speed? does it seem to make funny squeaking noises and seem to not be moving air properly? if you get no air flow, then the refr. section will get warm but the food at the bottom of the freezer will be mostly frozen, and the food at the top of the freezer will be thawed.
also when the unit is warming up, does it make any sounds? it is possible the unit is stuck in a defrost mode and that would cause warm in both sections.
will be waiting for your response. thanks tzweeb

Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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  • Tom Zwiebel
    Tom Zwiebel Feb 03, 2009

    can you add some new info and look at my questions.
    the other guy, taran, is referring to a problem with no water dispensing thru the door. not at all what you are having for problems.
    please add some more info and we can get this unit fixed.
    thanks tzweeb


  • Tom Zwiebel
    Tom Zwiebel Feb 03, 2009

    i realize your getting alot of suggestions, but you can help with some more info.
    it is likely that you have a shorting out sensor. there are 3 of these in your unit and any one of them could cause this type of failure. it does take a repairtech with a meter to check them.
    if you want to try and replace them, it is not hard to do. and they are pretty cheap, they do only have 2 wires and are mounted inside what looks like a plastic covered air vent. in the freezer, refr and on the freezers coils.
    what i have found is the fan motor in the freezer have a problem with not running all the time and that will cause poor air circulation and then poor cooling.
    your defrost cycle is controlled by the main control board that is located in the back of the unit.
    i was hoping you saw what the repairman changed so you could give some feedback on that.
    if not do you have any part numbers of what they changed?
    thanks again tzweeb


  • Tom Zwiebel
    Tom Zwiebel Feb 03, 2009

    refrigerators have main control boards, that some do call the mother board, but mother boards are a part of a computer and not appliances.
    now where is that frost at? on the back panel of your freezer, or on the coils that are behind the panel?
    i would guess that when your unit has warmed up and then starts cooling again that its just forming on the panel and not a cause of your troubles.
    if the coils are frosting over then that would cause the refr section to become warm first and the bottom of the freezer would still be frozen.\
    still would like to know about the fan and if its running


  • Tom Zwiebel
    Tom Zwiebel Feb 03, 2009

    sorry but rokkitman is not an appliance tech. he is not aware that your unit has a main control board that controls the defrost cycle.
    i wish you would have answered my questions so we could get this unit fixed for you.
    after all the wrong answers you have had here i can understand why you would just give up/
    but you will make a mistake by looking for a defrost timer in your unit.



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The problem is a frozen line in the door. I'll skip the hassle of dealing with GE. Based on all of the other postings you should know by now that GE does not stand behind their product and that you should never purchase a GE appliance.

That said, I purchased an electric heater kit specifically designed to fit the GE side by side refrigerators with the water dispenser. I purchased it from repairclinic.com for $42.50 plus $6 for shipping. The item # is 1381601.

Installation was pretty easy and took a total of 15 minutes. On a scale of 1 to 10 for difficulty (10 being the most difficult), I would rank it as a 4. The instructions that came with the heater kit were VERY helpful. The heater kit should not cost $42.50, but it beats dealing with GE. You can install this yourself. I installed mine at 9pm and by morning the dispenser was working again.

Steps:

1. Pry off plastic frame.
2. Lift control board out.
3. Disconnect the 3 wire harnesses from circuit board.
4. Unscrew the dispenser unit. (4 Phillip Screws).
5. Peel and stick the heater in the recesses area. See instructions from heater kit for picture on where the heater should go.
6. Splice wires according to instructions that came with the heater kit. Splices are provided. Very easy to do. Just follow the directions. Splice one heater wire to the harness red wire (position 2) and the other heater wire to the (black&white) harness wire (position 6).
7. Plug in the just the one harness to the control board and in 60 seconds you will start to feel the heater area getting warm. That's how you know it's working.
8. Put everything back together and you are in business.



Posted on Feb 03, 2009

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