When the keyboard is not played for over a day, when turned on, the LCD light is very dim. It then after a little while gets immediately bright without me adjusting anything. The brightness knob at the back has remained in the setting for the screen to be bright to be able to see clearly, so the knob seems not to be the problem.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Safest thing is to use a transformer. If it is only 35 watts, that is pretty small.
Often you can find a small "control transformer" that has dual primaries for 120/240 volts.
Connect it as an "Autoformer". In this connection you would only need one thaat would handle half the 35 watts... However, the smallest is probably 5 watts giving lots of capabilty. Google "autoformer" to see how to connect it. Essentially the primaries go in series and you take you 110 from one-half this combination.
The secondary of a control transformer used this way would NOT be used but just taped for insulation.
You might contact a heat and ventilation company as they may have one... even one that was removed for very low cost.
Hello! My Triton LE did that yesterday at rehearsal room. It came on twice (by turning it off and on every time the error message appeared), I could play the auditions and demos but when i hit the keys i heard nothing.
Soon after I went home (still with sweat on my forehead and my heart pumping like a pneumatic drill) I connected it and everything was working like nothing ever happened!
So guys, everybody who has the same problem: Don´t panic! I think for me, the power plug at the rehearsal room had a problem. Who thinks of that? Nobody... So check your keyboard on another power plug...If you can, try it in a friends house. Or check your house plugs.
I assume if the Keyboard doesn´t get enough power, the error message appears. Hope that Helps!
The key contact porbably is dirty and will have to be cleaned.
MOST of these contacts are actually a conductiove rubber pill that presses onto circuit traces of a board under the keys. These can get dirty and would involve dis-assembling the unit to get at the silicone rubber contact part and the circuit traces beneath it. Clean both with 99% isoprophyl alcohol and a Q-Tip.
Dis-assembly is a lot of work and requires care. If you are uncomfortable doing it, best to take to a shop.
I just replaced mine. Your keyboard will not self-destruct.
Go to Radio Shack and buy a CR2032 ($5 or so). Turn your TE over. Unscrew the hatch. You'll see the battery is in reachable distance. Pop it out. Put the new one in.
The Korg Triton touchscreen has two main parts - The LCD screen and the touch overlay. Between the two is a type of gasket. It is really just an adhesive, but it does help keep out moisture and dust. If you were to remove the screen, you could separate the two parts, clean it and use double-face tape or glue to reattach. You can also get a replacement LCD screen, touch overlay or touch-LCD assembly from a number of places on the internet. They are not cheap, unless you purchase a generic touch overlay or LCD and retrofit. As for repair in your area... try contacting Korg at http://www.korg.com and look for authorized repair centers.
I just changed the key on my Korg Triton Studio 61. It took some time, but it wasn't that hard. You'd better have a power screw driver. I had to take out at least 30 screws.
Do this at your own risk. Don't blame me if you mess up your keyboard. I'm telling you. If you're not that handy, don't try it. Pay attention to detail and be careful.
The Steps that I took
1) Turn your keyboard face down. Make sure you put it on something soft so that you don't scratch the face of your keyboard or damage your knobs or the pitchbender.
2) Remove all the screws on the bottom panel and remove the panel.
3) you have to take the entire keybed out. Lots of screws! I had to remove the "assignable - midi input/output board" to get it out. MAKE SURE THAT YOU DISCONNECT ANY CABLES THAT CONNECT THE KEYBED TO THE REST OF THE KEYBOARD. I had to disconnect the keybed at three different places. These connector cables are NOT strong and if you pull too hard, you WILL break them.
3) Once you get the keybed out, you have to remove the plastic binder that goes at the back of the keybed. It holds the keys in place.
Then Snap the old key out. snap the new key in. Before you unpack your new key, make sure the old one is really broken. I had a key that wasn't broken. It had just come unsnapped. I snapped it back in and it was fine.
Put it all back together again.
I had a broken key before. i got it repaired and it cost me $150. This time I fixed it myself and it cost me $7.50