My twin jbl 12'' sub in a enclosure dont seem to be giving bass
They are wired fine and run by a vibe amp which is powerful enough. i have a second amp to power the 6x9s, the second amp is running a power cable from the vibe amp rather than having another power cable running all the way to the battery.
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Re: my twin jbl 12'' sub in a enclosure dont seem to be...
Those 12's Need to be in a Ported Inclosure to release the Air that the Bass Produces. Use a 1 Inch Key Hole Bit and make 1 Hole at the Top Corner of Each Portion of the Box. Top Left and Top Right. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!
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You seem to have everything in spec. check your crossover points and your speaker wiring. subs may be playing out of phase. A huge factor is subwoofer enclosure ...if the enclosure is not in spec with sub requirements the subs will not peform great.
riverray1969 it would help if I knew the exact model number of that JBL sub you are referring to. With that info I can provide exact specs.
Basically, you need to build/modify an sub enclosure that is suited for the sub, the music you mainly play, and vehicle tuning. Generally, sealed enclosures will provide tighter bass response and get decently loud. Some would argue that it will give you greater sound quality. A ported enclosure will give you a louder more booming sound. That depends also on where the port is tuned (ex. 32 hz, 36 hz, etc ). You need to make sure that the enclosure meets the sub's airspace requirement as well. A customized well made enclosure is just as important as the sub you put in it.
Just get a 12" sub box enclosure for an audio store near you or make a custom box, a larger box supposedly gives you more bass yet at the cost of boot space. I have a type R sub and the box is only as big as it needs to be for the sub to fit and it gives amazing bass.
Make sure the subwoofer is set to low frequency, make sure subwoofer and bass are enabled on the headdeck. Make sure the gain is turned up on the amp, make sure the rcas haven't come out of the back of the head deck.
On the JBL3501 700 watt monoblock, you have adjustments for low pass and a setting for boost marked DBO, allowing you to select and boost the frequencies sent to the subs. If your amp is not the 3501, but a different JBL amp, the settings may be different.
Set the LP to either the white dot (about 100Hz) or slightly below to about 80Hz. Set the HP to about midscale or slightly higher. Set the boost to wherever the bass sounds best.
One other setting that will affect bass volume is the "input level" or gain control. It should have been properly set by your installer, but you can "tweak" it for best performance. Turning it up increases the sensitivity and matches it with the output from your head unit. Too high will cause distortion. Too low will result in less bass. So you want to set it just to the point that you begin to hear the distortion and then back it off slightly until the distortion disappears.
Hope this helps.
Are you sure the polarity is correct on the sub's connectors? This is very important as reversing them will cause the sub to pound inward instead of out. Make sure the wires are thick enough and that the amp's + connector goes to the red(or +) connector on the sub and that the amp is grounded properly to a clean piece of metal on the car's body. This ground wire should also be as short as possible. Also make sure the fine-tuning for the bass level on the amp is adjusted correctly and that the sub's enclosure is the correct specification ie. Ported or sealed, right size, etc.
there is no such speaker as a solo-X L5.
The Solobaric L5 is 450Watts RMS and 900 Peak.
Check your documentation, and no warranty except Massive Audio covers Burned Voicecoils as it is deemed customer abuse.
If it is a typo, and not an L5, your combination (as long as each is level matched) should be ok to run on that sub. When wiring it as you describe, the two amplifiers need to be identically matched in order for both coils to play at the same level.
Seek professional installations so your warranty is intact.
Use a pair of two-channel amps that are two-ohm stable, and wire a pair of subs to each amp. Wire them in parallel so the amps see two ohms (wiring in series will show four ohms). Doing this effectively "doubles" the power of the amps. If the amps are not two-ohm stable, they'll fail. Parallel wiring means putting the positive wire of sub 1 to the positive terminal of channel 1 on the amp, and the negative wire of sub 1 on the negative terminal of channel 2. Do the opposite for the second sub. This will give you a LOT of bass response as long as your sub enclosures are properly sized for the speakers.