Security screw - preventing disassembly - don't recognise type of
The fan has come loose on the motor so I want to remove the bottom casing - there are three normal small posidrive machine screws and one tamper-proof screw - like a slot head with a raised portion in the centre to prevent a normal screw driver entering the slots
I want to find out the name of this type of screw to order a suitable screw driver - then the repair should be very simple
I know the screw you are talking about, They are called tamperproof safety screws. i usually end up using the just the right size flathead screwdriver. And if that don't work, I drill it and put in my own screw.
Here is a link you should look at that will greatly help you. It has the screws and the tools. (copy and paste in your address bar)
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Remove the 2 screws from the bottom of the base, release the 4 clips on each side and remove the bottom cover.
There is a fan blade attached to the bottom of the motor and a sensor on the side of it that senses the fan blade turning. If the sensor does not sense the fan blade turning, it assumes that the motor is locked up or 'overloaded'.
Check that the fan blade has not come loose from the motor shaft and reattach if necessary. Verify that the sensor is secure in it's housing next to the fan blade.
Reinstall the base cover and verify operation.
1. Remove two small plugs on top, digging a wood screw into the soft plastic. They cover two screws.
2. Remove the screws.
3. Remove the cover.
4. Remove two screws holding the motor housing to the foot.
You are going to be pissed when you find out the solution because the company that makes the blender uses a special screw that requires a special slotted screw driver to remove the bottom panel. Here\'s what I did to circumvent their crummy design, your mileage may vary. Turn the machine on its side or upside down so that you can comfortably reach the bottom panel. Down there you will find a variety of screws holding on the bottom plate. They must all be removed before you can remove said plate. I\'m writing this from memory so please go easy on me if some of the instructions are slightly askew. I think there are five screws that you can easily remove with a standard Phillips head screw driver. The one near the front is slightly smaller. Next, comes the part where you ask yourself what were they thinking. The screw looks like a standard screw but the center of the screw is not milled out making it impossible to remove the screw without a special tool. On top of that, the screws are recessed in the housing making it especially onerous. Fortunately, I had a small pair of needle nosed pliers that were just long enough and strong enough that you could grab the center part of the screw, squeeze hard and put enough torque on the screw head to remove it. The recessed screws are particularly hard to reach and remove but they are doable with enough persistence. I think there were four of these bastard screws . one screw is relatively easy to get to and the other three are much harder. Two of the screws are hidden underneath the grey rubber feet near the back where the power cord connects to the main unit. Once all screws are removed you can slide off the back panel although it will still be connected to the main unit. Finally you will see a grey belt that connects the blade to the motor. I just held the blade spindle from underneath with one hand and grabbed the top gear with my other hand and twisted the drive gear until it unscrews and comes off. Install the new gear by screwing it on in the opposite direction and you are good to go. I threw out the bastard screws and replaced them with comparable length Phillips screws so I never have to endure this atrocity again. Once all the screws are replaced on the bottom panel you should be good to go. I don\'t remember who makes the machine but shame on you. You needlessly complicated a simple repair. Good luck !
The product has a 3-year warranty:
A reading of “OVERLOAD” indicates an overload on the motor. Turn off
and unplug the unit. Plug in the unit and turn the motor on again to clear the
over-load condition. Check the blender jar for blockage. If overload condition
re-occurs, contact your Blendtec service agent.
I simply slid a small screwdriver in through one of the holes under the base to prevent the fan from spinning and unscrewed the pin counterclockwise using some small channel lock pliers. No disassembly necessary.
My coupler was split in two, and I couldn't screw it off. I had to do the following:
1. Take the blender apart (mine had 2 screws on the bottom).
2. Remove the motor housing from the blender (mine was loose from removing the two screws earlier).
3. Remove the fan by removing the fan nut.
4. Take apart the motor housing. Mine had two machine screws with 1/4" hex heads holding a bracket that tied the two ends together. Once those two screws are removed, you can take the motor out of the housing. Be careful on the fan end of the motor, because it's got two spring loaded brushes that will come together once the motor is pulled through.
6. Once you have the motor out of the housing, you'll have something to grab onto so you'll be able to unscrew the broken coupler. I used a pair of channel locks and gently grasped the motor body, and then just used a regular pair of pliers to grab the broken coupler. It's regular thread (lefty lucy righty tighty), so twist accordingly.
Once you have the coupler off, just put everything back together. The hardest part is holding apart the spring loaded brushes while you push the fan end of the motor shaft back through the motor housing.
Took me about 20 minutes to do everything.
These instructions disassemble an electrical appliance.You should have some technical/mechanical/electrical experience to attempt this and you do so at your own risk.
See exploded diagram : http://www.kenwoodservice.co.uk/uk-delonghi/exploded/exploded-KF8150M.pdf
This is not a very good diagram to show the disassembly, however, it will at least help me to identify the parts.
Prise out the center insert in the drive wheel (#15 on the diagram) on the top of the base unit (I used a paring knife and worked my way around the circumference to work it loose).
Remove the four rubber feet (#19) from the base by pulling them out.
Undo the 4 phillips head screws in the holes where the feet were.
Remove the base and carefully position it along-side the body of the blender.
Prise off the silver switch knob (#13) - it slides straight off the switch shaft and I used a screw driver to carefully lever it off, working from each side a little at a time.
Undo the drive wheel on the top of the drive shaft by holding the fan on the bottom of the drive shaft and turning the drive wheel CLOCKWISE.
Undo and remove the two screws holding the switch support (#11) and cut the tie wrap that secures the blue cable to this support.
Undo the four screws that secure the motor assembly to the casing and remove the screws and their shake-proof washers.
Remove the internal components as a single assembly.Tilt/angle the motor assembly towards the switch support until the top of the shaft clears the rubber boot in the top and then the whole lot comes out easily.
To replace the switch (Part No. HS1144 - #10 on the diagram):
Carefully lever the white gear wheel off the switch shaft.
Undo the two small screws that hold the dial gear wheel cover in place on the switch support.
Remove the cover and the small gear wheel (noting which way around the gear wheel goes the two ends of the shaft are slightly different).
Undo the nut on the switch shaft that that secures the switch to the support (nut is 14mm diameter and needs a thin wall socket.I used long nose pliers to remove and re-install it).
The wires connect by simple push fit into their slots and the angled brass blades inside the slots grab the wire and lock it in place.To withdraw each wire, use a very thin screw driver (or similar) to depress the brass blades inside the slot.This enables the wire to be withdrawn as you depress the blade.
Re-assembly is the opposite sequence.
When putting the dial back together, remember to check that the dial reading lines up with the switch position (adjust the gears by resetting the teeth if the alignment is not correct.
Here’s the really interesting thing.After I replaced the switch, I pulled the old one apart.IT HAD FAILED BECAUSE THE CONTACTS HAD BURNT OUT.They had obviously been arcing and had completely burnt through. There were burnt off tails of the contacts lying in the switch housing and there was evidence of burning (carbon deposits) inside the switch.In short – the switch is not up to the job and will fail.Poor design and a latent defect.