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the 4 inputs are for biamping, (using separate amplifiers for low and high frequencies). just leave the pins in place and connect the amplifier to one red(+) and one black(-) connector on the speaker. It has an internal crossover to protect the tweeter.
You will need to isolate the fault to a particular stage.
The two large valves are the power output valves and operate in push/pull mode. The next stage is the phase splitter and driver stage. The next stage is the tone control and compensation. The first stage is the pre amplifier stage. To eliminate the output and drive stage you will need to inject a signal at the top end of the master volume control. Touching this point wth a screw driver will inject enough hum to give a strong buzz from the speaker, if this is the case then fault is in pre amp of tone circuity if not. Check screen feed resistors for open circuit (wire wound resistors to screen pins of output valves). Check resistors to anode and cathode pins of phase splitter for increase in value. If the output stage seems ok then isolate the fault further by touching the screw drive to the grid of the valve in the tone network and then the pre amp valve. The buzz will get louder as you progress if the stage is working ok. If not check anode voltages and resistors.
WARNING. dangerous high voltages exist in the circuits. Only ever use one hand when making contact tests, keep the other one in your pocket. If you feel this help is beyond you then please seek professional help.
All the very best from Vintie
Sorry your amplifier has and internal short and can only be repaired by a repair shop if its cost worthy. Putting a bigger switch will only provide more current to the source resulting in the same thing or a fire from the feedback of current creating heat at the weakest point in the circuit
could be in the remote wire at least thats what to hope for. did you wire it off the cd player or off the hot wire. i had a boss doing the same thing but wouldn't stay on b/c i wired the remote off the hot. if that ain't it then and i hate to say this your power supply may not be adequate, you could try using heavier gauge wire. if that didn't do it then your alternative would be get a smaller amp or get a bigger battery with high output altinater
I'd suspect that one of the two output transistors on that channel has gone bad. If you are unsure how to test or troubleshoot this, then you might try replace both the NPN and PNP outputs and catch the bad one that way. If your amp uses an output module then you would of course have to replace the module which would replace all the output transistors on both channels. Good luck. Another thing to look out for, is the emitter bias resistors. They are the large white ceramic ones near the outputs. Sometimes one of those will open up too. They will be of a very small resistance value like .5 ohms (point five ohms) or something in that general ballpark, and have a wattage value of typicaly 5 watts. So they are pretty big resistors. Be sure to check them all even if you do find a bad output transistor. They will often go out with the transistor. Good luck.