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Re: pin hole in 1/4" copper tubing feeding refrigerator
Never run plastic tubing through a wall! If copper is already there, then leave it, and solder the pinhole leak back up.
If the leak is outside of the wall, then cut off the tubing that includes the pinhole, and buy a brass ferrule coupling for 1/4 inch copper to copper. Make sure that it includes a brass barrel (it may come with 2, one for each side. If not, they are sold separately as well.). Install the coupling with ferrule into one side of the coupling.
Push the barrel into the plastic tubing, and install with ferrule just like you installed the copper tubing.
Sometimes you can get a plastic ferrule for the plastic line side of the coupling.
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Is it failing at the copper/brass fitting going into the tank (the tank check valve)? That area can be 250 degrees F or more during operation. Plastic, in my opinion is not acceptable here. I'd recommend getting some 1/4" OD copper refrigeration tubing and the appropriate compression fittings, and replacing the line.
Clean out the new ice maker with warm soapy water.
Ensure that the floor surface under your refrigerator is level. If the floor surface under your refrigerator isn't level, you can place shims under the legs of the refrigerator to fix the uneven surface.
Turn off the main water supply to your house.
Clear the water line by running the faucets until the pipe clears.
Screw the copper supply line's connector to the house's cold water connector valve. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection.
Slide the compression sleeve and nut onto the other end of the copper supply line. The compression sleeve and nut will wrap around the outside of the copper supply line.
Bend the copper supply line to fit into the water line inlet casing located on the back of the refrigerator. Leave slack in the line so that the refrigerator can be pulled away from the wall or cabinets. The water line inlet casing is a plastic bracket used to hold the copper supply line in place so that there is no pull on the tubing's connection. It is the larger of the two plastic brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.
Insert the compression sleeve located around the end of the copper supply line into the ice maker connector. The ice maker connector is already installed on the back of the Maytag refrigerator.
Tighten the nut over the connection between the compression sleeve on the copper supply line and the ice maker connector with an adjustable wrench.
Attach the water supply tube clamp to the water supply line by clipping it into place. The water supply tube clamp is a plastic bracket located on the back of the refrigerator that holds the supply tube so that it doesn't rattle and become disconnected. It is the smaller of the two brackets located on the back of the refrigerator.
Turn on the main water supply.
Check all connections for leaks.
Position the drain hose located on the back of the ice maker over your floor drain. Use a PVC pipe if you need to redirect the drain hose flow so that it falls over the floor drain. The PVC pipe should not touch the drain hose and should have no low point where the water can settle.
Plug the ice maker into a 3-prong grounded outlet.
The tubing connects to the water valve. You should loop the copper in a manner so that when you pull out the ice box to work on it the copper will not break. Snug up your compression nut to the valve. Turn the water on. If it leaks tighten it a hair till its tight. That way you won't over tighten the compression fitting.
Your fill tube (supplys water directly to icemaker ) is frozen up inside the freezer . You need to replace the water valve due to slow leakage letting the drips freeze inside the tube eventually freezing solid and when icemaker calls for water , the water pressure blows the small tubing out of the fill tube .
Check out the water dispenser is working good condition or not. also check the value. Also the dual water valve did indeed fix the problem of no water in the icemaker. It was very easy to change out. First unplug the refrigerator, turn off the water to the icemaker and then pull out the refrigerator for easy access. Have a small pan ready to catch the water in the tubes. The water valve on my refrigerator was located at the right rear and was screwed via a bracket to a frame member. Remove the fiber or cardboard cover which is about 4'x1' to get to the valve. It might be a good idea to take a digital picture now of the old water valve showing the orientation of the plastic tubes; when you replace it the tubes should have the same orientation so you have no worry about a kink. Remove the copper tubing from the valve with a half inch wrench, then unscrew and remove the two plastic tubes. Drain the tubes in the small pan. Mark the tubes (right and left) so you know where they go on the new valve. Unscrew the entire valve from the frame (two screws) and pull the valve out carefully. Remove the two electric plugs from the old water valve and mark them left and right.
The copper tubing goes back in the new valve but do not use the old compression washer. I cut the tubing off about one inch because the old compression washer would not come off. I also used the new half inch copper nut which came in the kit instead of using the original. Slide the copper nut up the copper tube, slide on the compression washer, then slide the copper tubing down inside the fitting on the new water valve. Screw the copper nut securely with a half inch open end wrench. The copper tube probably was secured to the back of the refrigerator with a bracket so remember to put it back into the bracket; this prevents the tube from getting bent when you are moving the refrigerator back and forth.
Next screw the original plastic tubes (left and right) onto the proper fitting of the new water valve. Be careful not to screw them too tightly; do not use a wrench.
Then plug the electrical connections back into the new water valve, left and right. Carefully push everything back inside the bottom of the refrigerator and screw it back to the frame. Take a look at your picture and make sure the tubes are oriented properly. That's it. Turn the water back on the copper feed tube, plug it in, and make sure nothing leaks.
Replace the fiberboard and push the refrigerator back to the wall. If the icemaker does not start immediately, put about 1/2 cup of water in the tray and let it restart the cycle. It will freeze the water, eject the cubes, and then magically water will flow back into the itray. ThanksGood Luck
EVERYONE WANTS TO MAKE EVERYTHING PLASTIC THESE DAYS. REMOVE PLASTIC LINE AND REPLACE WITH 1/4" FLEXIBLE COPPER ( ANY KIND ) JUST PICKUP A SMALL ROLL AT A HARDWARE STORE. MAKE SURE YOU GET A COUPLE OF FITTINGS, NUTS AND/OR FERRELS. HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY
I had this with a Kitchenaid Superba and wanted to get rid of the filter holder assembly entirely as I have an undersink unit which serves the fridge. I removed the plastic line (nut) at the back of the fridge (which led to the filter holder at the front) where the flexible copper tubing inserted (this was a 3/8' compression fitting-plastic) and also the returning line (1/4" copper compression nut on a plastic line) at the manifold (again in the back of the fridge) where it gets split between the water line and the ice line. I then just connected the 1/4" flexible copper directly to the manifold (1/4" nut, compression sleeve, male-male connector) using a pre-made 1/4" flexible compression line. Sounds complicated but after seeing how the water routes it was fairly quick work.