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Re: no heat cant find the thermostat
It sounds like it is the heating element which will be behind the back drum in front of the intake blower motor it may be disconnect or worn out make sure the it is unplugged before taking the machine appart very high voltage!
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As you are aware, every year manufacturers of products in this country try to make their products safer, and in the case of clothes dryers, they try to make them less susceptible to fires from accumulated lint.
To that end, it is probable that your clothes dryer has accumulated lint internally, and either some fuse (or fuses) or one of the "shut-off-thermostats" is kicking in every time you start it.
Someone will need to take the whole machine apart and clean out the lint, and check the fuses and thermostats with an electrical tester.
The lint that accumulates is not caught by the lint screen, it is throughout the inside of the machine in the tubing.
God bless your efforts.
( P.S. I have taken several machines apart and found a whole shoe-box full of accumulated lint inside.)
Here are two ideas that might help, in the United States.
1) Someone sharp with an electric meter should check each and every place that should have electricity and see if there is any.
Start with the plug on the wall.
There should be 3 or 4 holes in the outlet for the plug that plugs in.
Two of the 3 holes, or two of the 4 holes should show a 110 -115 volt availability.
The other one or the other two are ground.
If only one shows current, you have a fuse or circuit breaker that is blown or "popped".
This is because one of the 110 volt lugs or wires makes the motor and controls work, and the other 110 volt lug is for the heating element alone.
2) If the 2 are showing current, go to the back of the machine and test the machine at it's wire connection.
Then, test each and every wire inside the machine for continuity.
There could be a wire burnt in two, a wire unhooked, a heating element with an "open", or thermostat that is intermittent.
God bless your efforts.
Sure can! Most Kenmore style dryers have a heating element that has a long wire coil inside it, (often there are two wires or elements inside one housing). Regardless, if you have carefully checked the air exhaust, and you find it is "perfect" ( means no back-up heat from a plugged or impeded air flow) and you have determined the air flow inside the machine is like new, ( no back up there either), then what has possible happened is the wire heating element has wiggled loose and is touching itself, thereby shorting out and making super heat. The wire coils are usually held loosely in place with white ceramic rings, to keep them from touching the metal housing. If you carefully remove the heating element "box or "tube" and look inside , you may be able to see the problem. Testing it with an ohm meter will not work, it will simply test OK. The element is made to heat at a certain temperature according to it's length, if it touches itself, the elecrttricity will take the shortest route and may make your element glow white hot in one spot. Be blessed.
Lotsa work ahead of you! Find a tester and start with the electric wire that is fastened to the inside the back of the machine. The wire fastens with 3 screws side by side, and perhaps another screw over to the side of those 3. The center of the 3 wires is a ground, and the other 2 should show 110volts each. ( FYI: One 110volt wire feeds the motor and controls, the other feeds only the heating element. If you have the 4 wire feed cord, the green wire off the the side of the other 3 is also a ground wire.) If you show a dead "lug", next check the plug on the wall or the floor. If still dead, one of your circuit breakers is likely tripped in your house fuse box. If you have current to all that on the back of the machine, it's time to go inside the machine and look for a wire burnt in two or one of the thermostats blown or the heating element dead. Start with the heating element. Unplug the Dryer. Remove the wires off the heating element and see if you have current flowing through it. Some test instruments have an ohm meter, which will test these items well. If this element is good, unplug the thermostats and test each of those. By now, you should have found the problem. Be blessed.
These timers are crappy but easy to take apart. The leaf switches inside there get a burr on it and no heat; basically like filing points on a car. Smooth up the contacts put her back and see is what I would do.
You will have to remove the back panel to access this part. Be sure that you unplug the machine before starting. Once the back panel has been taken off and placed aside the thermal switch will be located on the left lower side near the blower housing . It will be thin and long and located near the cycling thermostat that has for prongs on it. On certain machines, the thermal fuse is located in the front. To access this you must remove the kickplate, which can be done by pushing the clips, one on each side jsut above the top of the kickplate, in between the top and abottom portion. The part numbers are the same for either style dryer. To test this part you can either take the wires off it and tie them together then plug the machine back in and see if it heats, or you can use amultimeter and check to see if there is continuity, if there is its good, if not, bad. The thermal fuse will usually be white, and if located in the back, be thin and long with two wires on it, left and right. If in the bottom front, it will be front center on the exhaust duct
Good Morning, It sounds like your heating element has quit. This will probably involve an element, thermostat and thermal fuse. The dryer will have to be taken apart to work on. UNPLUG MACHINE. I need the full model number inside the door on the frame, then I can help you more specifically. Have a good day.
the only fuse on a dryer might be on the electronic control panel there are no time-delay fuses inside the unit,do you have power to the unit? or does it stop heating or quit all together,if it quits heating its probably your hi-limit thermostat on the element case or cycling thermostat
Several reasons for it not to heat.
Obviously faulty heater, and or thermostat(s). You need meter to test. Heater and stats are located at the rear of the m/c behind a removable panel.
Faulty programmer, faulty heater relay.
Check filters etc, refer to instructions for this.
Plz leave feed back on this .
Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.