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Re: Not working at all
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Offhand, you mentioning those parts indicate that you are familiar with electrical components at least with respect to your unit. To perform diagnosis, you would need a DVM/VOM to check for the presence or absence of voltage.
Foremost to check would be the flow of power. It is known that power enter hence the light. From thereon trace the voltage since the voltage will branch from there. The thermostat acts as temperature controller, simply stated, it acts as a switch to supply power to the compressor. In some versions, the thermostat goes to a controller board rather than straight to the compressor motor. If this is the case, then the motor would be activated by a relay. In short, a lot to check.
One particular area to check would be the common terminal block where all the main wire/harness meets. In most models, there would be terminals/connectors that would need looking into and even cleaning to ensure no corrosion. As always be reminded of safe working practices when checking live/powered units.
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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
What a run around! Look on the inside of the fresh food section of your refrigerator. There is a label on the wall near the top. The date of manufacturer is on the label. Also the correct model number. Send me the model number.
What is the problem? Refrigerators are not designed to operate in a garage. If you purchase a new unit and it was under warrantee, the warrantee would be voided if it were operating in a garage.
I was a Sears field service technician. I have never heard of a garage heater kit.
Sorry, you got the run around. The customer service people are under trained, and the telephone technical personal have never spent a day in the field.
Bad overload relay or bad compressor. You can change your overload relay to test, usually fairly cheap, (55.00 from Sears) however if it is your compressor, it is out of it's five year warrantee and is not worth repair. 900 to 1100.00 to repair in my area.
Assuming you are describing a standard domestic Kenmore refrigerator, and you are asking about an add-on "kit" that will permit the unit to operate in a cold garage, the short answer is no. Kenmore (Sears) makes a refrigerator that is rated for garage use, but it's not a big one.
However, if you are handy, you can install some "bat" type fiberglass insulation under the unit around the compressor being careful not to obstruct the fan or any other moving parts. This will help hold some heat in the compressor area. You will need to remove the insulation in the warmer months so the compressor doesn't overheat.
If it's REALLY cold in your garage in the winter, you could try disconnecting the condenser fan, but you should keep an eye on the unit to see how it performs. The condenser fan MUST be connected if the temperature in the area exceeds around 45 degrees.
Sears is technically correct. It wouldn't work with the old coolant either. The principle is simple. The refrigerator is the same temp as your garage - it is not running. It must be in a 60 degree room to work properly. The sensor to turn it on is in the fresh food compartment, and it never calls for cooling; therefore it appears you freezer only is out - but they both work together. Hope this helps!
probable reason for this is that the thermostat controls freezer temp and freezer follows suit.
if temp in your garage is low ie in winter, then the fridge doesn't need to switch on and the freezer temp rises.
i know this sounds barmy but it is true
It is the compressor that has failed. The hum is it trying to start and the following click is the overload protector opening. What is the temperature where the refrigerator is located? Allow the compressor to cool down before trying to restart it. If it still does not restart after it has cooled off it is done.