My Washer wont spin!
Hello There. Have you ever experienced a "No Spin" Issue with your
front load washer unit? This problem will have three main causes, and
we will discuss them all, shortly. Let me explain what a "No Spin"
Ok, lets say you are beginning to load your unit with
a normal size load. Once the unit is properly loaded, you will,
generally, close the door and start to set the washers timer, or
control panel to the desired cycle. Now, lets push the start button, or
pull the timer. Ok, the unit has began to initiate the filling of the
drum, and the wash is on its way. Essentially, the unit will need to
run through the cycle for five to eight minutes(Depending on what cycle you have selected), before the final spin will occur. Lets fast forward to the spin cycle, shall we?
this is when the "No Spin" issue will occur, if your front loader is
experiencing difficulties. Just after the rinse, normally, the spin off
will be initiated by the main control unit. In a normal situation, the
spin off will occur, without any problems, but if there are issues
within the unit, there will be no spin. The unit will, abruptly,
shutdown and a error code will be issued. I should point out that the
error code may not be issued in most cases, due to a not so normal
issue. lets discuss some of the normal issues, as well as, the abnormal
One of the most common issues will be a failed door
switch. This is a built in safety switch, that is programed to lock the
unit, during a full scale spin. It will, also, lock the door during the
wash cycle, as well. If the door switch is experiencing difficulties,
the unit may run passed the rinse and wash cycle, perfectly, but the
final spin will be interrupted. This is a safety feature that was
installed to prevent injury. To correct this issue, you will be
required to replace the failed component. Here are a few tips on how to
do this yourself, if you choose.
The door switch may be
accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is,
generally, located in the front panel of your unit, around the
perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it
can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it
cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the
washer cabinet. When reaching into the unit, be careful. There are very
sharp edges, within the interior cabinets structure.
varies by model, if your unit has a lower front panel, start there. It
should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or
snaps. It may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the
lower panel and main panel. To release the catch, gently insert a flat
sculpting knife, wrapped with duct tape, into the gap and push back the
catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access
panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The
last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel.
The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more
difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by
lifting the top, removing the screws that secure the front panel, and
detaching the panel from the drum.
Ok, once you have gained access into the unit, Locate the door
switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and
connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires
are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off
of the terminals. Be sure to not pull on the wires. These wires are
very fragile when forced. You may need to use a pair of long-nose
pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the
terminals for corroded ends. If either is corroded they should be
cleaned or replaced. Try cleaning the connectors ,and terminal with a
red ruby eraser tip. this may sound crude, but it is very effective.
replace the terminals and connectors if they are not able to be cleaned
with this method.
Now it is time to confirm the damage. Use a
multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting
X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should
get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and
hold the switch, the reading should change to zero. If the switch does
not test as described, it should be replaced.
Ok, that will sum
up the door switch issue. This will be the most common issue that will
cause a "No Spin" issue, but there are a couple more that we will
The second issue that will cause a "No Spin" state, will be a failed Motor Control Board.
This will be the most expensive problem that will induce the "No Spin"
state, in this case. The Motor Control Unit is responsible for
regulating the speed of the motor, with the help of the tachometer
mounted on the motor shaft. The tachometer and MCU, work together to guide the motors rotation speed. The CCU( central control unit),
sends the main command signal, which in return, starts the final spin.
If the motor control board is experiencing difficulties, the unit will
not be able to initiate the final spin. It may be a very weak spin off,
or none at all(complete shutdown). You will, normally, receive an error code when this issue occurs(F06,F15,F10). This will, usually, require you to replace the MCU. Very heavy(overloaded)loads will cause the drum to wobble, abnormally, thus causing the drum to bang up against the MCU box. This will cause the harness to become separated, or completely damage the MCU's
circuitry. Damaged circuitry will, essentially, induce erratic
resistance levels, thus, causing the unit to have a weak spin, or not
spin at all. In order to confirm the damage to the MCU , simply remove the front lower panel, and set it aside. Once the panel is clear, you will be able to access the MCU. The MCU is in close proximity of the motor. It will look like a white box, tucked in the lower left side of the drum assembly. There will be several connectors, connected to the pin ports. The larger(5 pin),
connector will be the main testing port. This connector is linked to
the motor,and tachometer. Once the port plug is removed from the MCU, you will be able to test the pins for the correct resistance. The correct resistance level for these pins will be 6 ohms. Anything higher, or below, will indicate that the MCU will need to be replaced. This procedure can be tough, so if you are not up to the testing part, and don't
have a meter, simply call your local service tech. In some cases, the
harness will have slipped off, thus, causing a communication error(F11). If this is the case, just re-connect the separated harness port.
Finally, the last possible cause will be a failed motor(Tachometer failure).
This is not a common issue, but it is possible. Gaining access to the
motor can be tricky. Generally, you will need to remove the rear access
panel. There are several screws to remove, in order to separate the
panel from the rear of your unit. Once removed, the drive assembly will
be exposed. here is a quick tip on how to confirm drive motor failure.
Once you have located the drive motor, pay close attention to the two
wire leads connected to the motor. Disconnect the motor's two wire
leads from the wiring harness. Set your multimeter to the R x 1 setting. Touch each of the meter's probes to one terminal each. Your motor should show little resistance (a reading of zero, or close to zero).
check the ground connection. Place one probe on the bare metal housing
of the motor. Place the other probe on each terminal, one at a time.
You should not receive any readings on your meter from this test. If
your unit motor fails either of these tests, it must be replaced.
hope this will help you understand what is actually going on during
this type of error. a "No spin" state can be very frustrating. The
clothes will not spin out, and dry properly. the above descriptions of
the more common issue, will help you diagnosis the problem, and isolate
which part you will need to replace, thus, saving your hard earned
money. Be sure to use caution when testing, and disassembling your
unit, as well. Have a great day.
NOTE_ This post will cover all Kenmore HE4T, and Whirlpool duet units. It will cover most Kitchen Aid Front Loading Automatic units, as well.
on Dec 09, 2009 | Kenmore HE4t 3.8 Cu. Ft. King Size...