Re: Wont work in a any breeze- flame keeps going out.
I used my Parker for 7 years on a Hunter sailboat. Full time liveaboard, sailing from California to North Carolina via Panama. It works better than any thing from West Marine. To check the gas flow, just pull it out of the box and listen for the hiss of gas. If it is not a strong flow stick a pin in the orifices. If the flame in the box is not hot make sure that the interior plates are placed correctly. The unit will get cherry red when all is working correctly.
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I am assuming this is a patio heater.
I have extensive experience with gas appliances.
The most common problem with pilot light issues is the thermocouple it is a probe that is directly over the flame , it senses the flame and allows gas to flow, if it senses no flame the gas valve closes. Patio heaters are also quite finicky, sometimes a simple adjustment of the thermocouple will do the trick. Also thorough cleaning of the orifice is necessary at least 1 x a year.
WARNING: this test can be dangerous; do it only if you know what you are doing!
I turned on my two burner propane BBQ. The left side worked OK but flames started coming out of the control knob (front area) on the right, and the right side burner was not lighting.
This is obviously gas leaking out of the front area. If the flames go out when you turn the knobs off then the leak is after the valves, controlled ny the knobs. If the flames stay on and only go out if you turn gas off at the tank then the leak is at the pipe entering the controls. In my case the flames went out with the controls, so I looked underneath. I slowly turned the knob down and saw that the flames (therefore the gas) was coming out of the air regulator/entry hole. I knew at once that the pipe going to the burner must be blocked. Sire enough, when I removed the burners I saw that an insect built a cocoon in the pipe. Clearing it solved the problem.
That is going to be them coils. The valve assembly has a glowbar, a flame sensor, and a set of coils. The ignitor and flame sensor must drop out of the circuit in order for the coils to open. The control klixon mounted on the blower housing beside the duct fuse is what controls the heat in the drum. The warmed air passes over the bottom of the bi-metal control and is regulated by that control coming on and off all through the cycle. The flame sensing device has been known to stick and stay open for a long time OR die altogether. The ignitor is like a light bulb, it is either going to work or not )no in between), Yall need to swap out them coils.
Hi you will need to replace the thermocouple. This is the copper tube that screws in to the gas valve and goes back and mounts along side of the pilot. Most will pull straight out. When they go out, the pilot will light when you hold the red button down, but as soon as you release it off it goes. You can but this thermocouple at any hardware store. They come in different lengths, But I would get a 36" one. They will coil up so they wont be in the way. Its better to have a longer one then one that's to short. Make sure the tip is in the flame, or it will do the same thing. It has to get very hot to keep and produce milivolts to keep it on.Please don't forget to rate me on this as I know you will be kind. This will solve your problem for sure. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating Contractor
Sounds like the flame sensor is dirty or bad. This is a metal rod that sits on the flame telling the controls that the burners is lite and it is okay to keep the gas valve open. If there is no flame it tells the control no flame shuts the gas valve off to keep excess gas from building up in the furnace. It could also be a faulty limit switch which tells the control the furnace is to hot so shuts the furnace down till it cools off. This is easy to check with an ohm meter with the furnace off check for continuity through the switch(usually a round disc looking thing with two wires going to it) if it ohms out then it is okay then run the furnace and after it shuts off check the switch to see if it ohms out if not then you have found the problem if it is okay could be the flame sensor try to clean it with a lit grit sand paper or emry cloth works good.
There is a gas valve that controls the burner and has a flame sensor that keeps it from supplying gas when there's no flame. There's a chance that the unit overheated and caused a heat overload protector to fail, which was a safety feature to keep the unit from becoming dangerous. You may need to replace that overload protector. The pilot light may have just went out, and you'll need to light it again and make sure the gas valve is set to on. The flame sensor may be dirty and thinking the pilot is not on. The flame sensor will be a wire or probe mounted close to the pilot light. The gas valve may have failed and need to be replaced. You probably can't cause a lot of damage by just looking around in there and cleaning the flame sensor, but you're dealing with fire here, and you should leave anything like taking the gas line apart to a professional.
I'll give this a go!
With a cooker like this, you depress and then turn the control knob, press the ignition button and continue to depress the control knob for a few seconds. This is because a device called a thermocouple is heated by the flame and you have to continue to depress the control knob so that sufficient gas flows to heat up the thermocouple. If the thermocouple does not get hot or stay hot then the gas valve is automatically closed - stopping the gas. The thermocouple is a 'flame failure' safety device. If the gas gets cut off then the flame goes out and the thermocouple goes cold switching off the gas valve automatically.
However, you are having to try and manually keep the gas going for a good five minutes.
I would think that there is either a problem with the thermocouple or the gas control valve!
ck/replace the 2 black coils on valve they will sometimes fail after 1st start up slight chance it may be flame sensor mounted on side of burner to ck remove the 2 wires and short together temporaily if flame stays on and reignites ckd vent system first bad flame may cause sensor to shut it off if flame/vent ok replace sensor
What you are referring to as the flame failure device and there is a spark? On gas refrigerators there is generally a thermocouple safety device. This thermocouple shuts off the gas if it does not receive heat from the flame to generate the millivolt current to hold the gas safety valve open. If this thermocouple is bad it will allow the flame to be lit but it will go out as soon as you manually release the depressor that opens the valve. Your supply pressure is in range. If you have to much primary air you will get a flame lift of from the burner. To little primary air and you will have a dirty and lazy flame.