Question about KitchenAid KSM103 Professional 5 Series Stand Mixer

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Trying to revive a Model 4C Kitchenaid mixer by Hobart


I inherited a model 4C mixer and it stalls under low load. I would like to look inside, relubricate, and repalce any worn or broken gears and/or bearings. Could you please advise how to open the unit to get access to the gears and bearings? I can open the motor area and have replaced the brushes. I suspect this unit has dried grease and maybe worn bearings. I like to recycle appliances when possible and my wife would be thrilled if this mixer could be brought back to life. Thank you very much for your help!


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Withthe front bearing being semi-sealed, a liquifying grease would not begood. Also, the upper vertical sleeve bearing is high above thegearing, much higher than the 6qt models. Even Benalene would have ahard time flowing upward to it. So, in both of these places I've packedhigh quality synthetic hi-temp wheel bearing grease. It stays put andwon't flow out. For lower gears and bearings, where they are coveredeven if it flows out and gravity takes over, I use the KA. I would nothave a problem with modern wheel bearing grease in the older units inall places. It will not come out unless grossly overfilled. Theyoriginally had a wheel bearing type grease.

Therear motor bearing takes a light motor oil in a felt washer. Check thebrushes too. There also seems to be a propensity for the governorcontacts to loosen and fall off with age and/or use. This is at theback of the motor. If it does, it will still run, but possibly roughly,but there are 2 pair. If you retrieve it when it does come off, it canbe soldered back in place. The original is just pressed in and thevibration loosens it (it vibrates fast in operation).

Before orafter you do anything, turn it on various speeds and turn it offquickly. If it tends to stop immediately, it could use lubrication. Awell lubed mixer, new or old, will continue to rotate and 'wind down'for several seconds after being turned off. That's the sign of a mixerin good shape.

Ido know that there are almost no resources on this site or the web thatgive detailed information about the internals. I don't think anyone haseven posted about how to take it apart, and I have never seen one ofthose exploded parts drawings around either.

the motor bearings and gears were not designed to be serviced HERE IS ONE FOR FREE IF YOU NEED ANOTHER ONE FOR PARTS.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Hi there

Buy a small tub (one pound, I think is the common size) of all-purpose
grease or wheel-bearing grease at a hardware store, Home Depot, Lowes, NAPA,
Car Quest, etc., store. This should cost you about $3.

Get two blade screwdrivers, one medium sized and one a little smaller.

baggie and put a rubber band around it so the baggie doesn't fall off.

Take a small screwdriver and remove the screws holding the name strip
around the machine and the rear cover. Carefully remove the name
strip and set it aside. Remove the rear cover and set it aside.
These are small Phillips screws, but if you don't have a small
Phillips screwdriver (#1), you can get at them with a small blade
screwdriver; since they aren't critical, it doesn't matter if they
aren't gut-busting tight when you reinstall them.

Take the larger blade screwdriver and use it to remove the chromed
ring around the nose of the gear area. Catch the blade on the top of
the ring and rap the screwdriver smartly. The ring will drop off.
Unless it's held by all sorts of food build-up. Then it will give way
grudgingly and reveal stuff you'd forgotten you made.

Flip the machine on its back or side. Look at the shaft that the dough hook and paddle attach to. Notice that there is a pin through the housing and the shaft. This pin attaches the housing to the shaft and prevents them from turning relative to each other. Take a very small steel or brass pin, something like a shish-kabob skewer or the awl on a Swiss Army Knife, hold it against one end of the pin, and rap the skewer or knife with something substantial.. Be very careful not to round over or mushroom the head of the pin. The pin should come free and begin to work its way out. Remove the pin completely.
Wiggle the lower housing a bit and see if it will pull free of the
main housing. Usually they don't. Look at the area where the small
screws are. Take a small screwdriver and pry the housing down from the screws. With a bit of cajoling and a few choice words, the piece will come off. You will be left looking at a set of eccentric gears in one hand and the gear ring still attached to the machine. There will be all sorts of nasty looking and nastier smelling stuff in the housing and on the gears.

Notice that there are two sets of screws exposed.
1. Four larger slot head screws toward the read of the machine and
2. Six smaller slot head screws around the gear area.
Remove all these screws and set them aside.
Being very gentle, break the machine apart so that the lower and upper parts of the body come apart. Be very careful of the gasket that seals the gear head surfaces. Be very careful not to put any strain on the wires that connect the upper and lower portions of the machine body. You now have a look at the inside of the gear works.

On the main body of the machine you will see a large beveled gear set.
This is the main gear. Sticking up from the same area is a smaller
round gear set. This small round gear is the fail-safe that will
strip from time to time. To replace this gear, you need to remove the pin that holds it, remove the old gear, put in the new gear and
replace the pin. I usually replace the pin at the same time, since
the pin can become bent or mushroomed over.

Think of grease as being composed of two components: oil and soap.
The oil is the lubricant and the soap is the carrier. The hard stuff
is the old soap that has been left behind when the oil took a walk.
Clean out all the old grease. As you clean it out, look for pieces of
metal that may have flaked off of gears. If you find any, try to
figure out where they came from. Don't even think of using the
new, "green" brake cleaners; they have water in them and don't work at all. When you get the old grease off and everything is clean and neat, take a close look at the small gear.

It may be worn. If it is, make a note to order two and two pins to go
with them. Also make a note to order two of the gaskets that you were careful not to destroy. If you are feeling flush, order a spare pin for the attachment shaft. You never know.

When you have finished, slather a goodly amount
of grease on and into all gear teeth, on all exposed shafts and
anywhere else you think moving parts might wind up.

Working carefully, reverse the above disassembly procedure and put the machine back together. Wipe everything carefully.

Good luck and thanks for using Fixya!!!!

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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On Each Slider Make Sure That The Clips Are Not Broken Or Put On The Wrong Sides They Have Built In Clips And If Not Locked The Side Will Continue To Fall. The Slide Rails I'm Referring To Are These
Trying to revive a Model 4C Kitchenaid mixer by Ho - c21914c.jpg

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • Michael Fisher
    Michael Fisher Feb 02, 2009

    I apologize This Was The Wrong Post


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More info re: n50 hobart mixer

Judy. Hobart was sold to Illinois Tool Works (ITW) several years ago. The Kitchenaid product line was sold to Whirlpool Corp. several years ago too.

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