The original bar tack and reverse zig zag seem ok using the burttonholer, but after it gets to the next bar tack instead of going into the zig zag to return to starting end, it gets stuck and keeps bar tacking and I can hear gears or something clicking away in the machine. I think I've checked all basic trouble shooting stuff like threading, having the BH lover down, etc. This is the first time I've used the buttonholer. Otherwise the machine works fine. I've never used an all in one set up before so I don't know what to look for. Also is the finished product supposed to look just zig zaggy? In the old days, they looked more satin stiched!
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You do it using narrow rows of side by side zig zag stitches and bar tacking the ends of the rows. Make a line where you want the hole to be. Set the zig zag stitch width very narrow, whatever is closest to what suits the fabric. Coarse or loose weaves need a wider width, finer ones a narrower width. Experiment on some scraps to get it right. Number of stitches per inch, or stitch length, should be very fine, at least 20 per inch, but not 0. Try a few more experiments on scraps to make sure it looks right. Make a test hole to be sure it is the right size for your buttons.
Stitch a straight line of zig zags down one side of your line, with the edge of the stitching not quite touching your line. Stitch a second row directly on top of the first one.
Repeat on the other side of the line. Ideally you should still be able to just see the line you drew when the rows are done, but not see any bare fabric on either side of the line.
Then move to one end of your rows. Leave the stitch length the same, but change the width to match the width of your two side by side rows. Stitch a bar tack, about the same length as your two rows are wide. If your two rows are 1/8 inch wide, your bar tack should be 1/8 inch long. Do the same at the other end. Make sure the bar tack covers the very end stitches in the rows as it is the anchor that will prevent unravelling. This is exactly what machine buttonhole makers do, but they do it all for you.
Carefully slit between the rows to open the hole. I like to put a drop of Fray Check or something similar on my buttonholes after I cut them open. It makes them much stronger and they will never come out.
you start with the broad zig zag stitch bar across the top then you go down the left side using a smaller zig zag stitch then you make the the broad zig zag stitch at the bottom then you make the smaller zig zag stitch on the right side all the way to the top broad zig zag stitch & your done the right side zig zag does not go beyond the top broad zig zag stitch
Mark your garment with chalk taking care to mark the start point and end points and a straight line to follow. Set your machine up for a fairly wide bar tack (zig zag in place) Then position the needle left and set it up for a satin stitch (fairly narrow) slowly stitch forward until you get to the end mark. Then do another bar tack. At this point you move your needle to the other side and satin stitch in reverse until you get to the first bar tack.
I would test this on a scrap piece first. Then proceed.
Have you pulled down the buttonhole trigger lever at the back of the sewing area? most modern machines have one of these - when you use it with the button hole foot, you'll see the foot has a little piece that sticks out and triggers the lever to begin stitching the reverse bead and bar tack of the buttonhole.
Some machines will start out by sewing a straight stitch all the way around the buttonhole area first and then will zigzag/satin stitch along the sides. Bar tacks will be the last stitches sewn - hope this helps!
I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zigzag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.
1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.
2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.
3. Put the zigzag foot on the machine.
4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.
5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zigzag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zigzag foot.
6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zigzag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.
7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.
8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zigzag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.
9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.
10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.
11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.
Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.