Wiring up this amp for the second time (after having it sit in my car for 4 years -- long story), a wire from the battery touched the case. Now it just instantly blows the fuses I put in. It appears that somehow, I've shorted out the circuit. Worth taking it apart and looking, or did I just throw all that money away?
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Re: Started blowing fuses
No you have created a solder jump fusing the circuit together I suggest buying another amplifier rather then repairing it you can buy a new amp or anything audio wise at dealer wholesale cost at this site: www.godspeedaudioheaven.com
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The only time it blows is when you step on the gas and the car is moving and you're shifting from 1st to second. So if you left the car alone ...just start it and let it idle sitting still ...the fuse doesn't blow.
If that's the case then I would be looking at wiring. Like something is creating a dead short and blowing the fuse. Once the pump is running ...and that's typically when an electrical motor will draw its highest amp draw ...it stays running. My inclination is there is some kind of short and it happens when you move the clutch, the shifter or the throttle. Something is rubbing or coming in contact with the main power wire to the fuel pump. That's where I would start looking ....
I'll give you the correct answer, but I know you're not going to want to hear it.
Every step you did, following discovery of the first blown fuse, was the wrong thing to do, and made a simple short in wiring (or internal short in the radio or amp) now a major electrical issue.
When a fuse blows, that is telling you that there is a short somewhere "upstream" of that fuse. With the burnt wiring or burnt electronics smell, that typically is due to using a fuse (or wiring circuit) that has far greater amp rating than the gauge of wiring or devices that are connected to that fuse/circuit. Once you smell anything burnt, the simple short has now spread and increased in electrical damage.
You basically forced the electrical system to do far more damage by disconnecting the battery, replacing the under hood fuse, and forcing current/electricity to a shorted out wiring circuit or shorted component (radio or amp). People always make the fatal mistake of disregarding what a fuse is intended for, and what it should tell you, and they try to force faulty/damaged wiring or equipment to work by repeatedly shoving new fuses back in (frequently with higher amp rating). This makes what started as a simple problem, much much worse.
Now, your first step in repair/recovery is to completely remove the amp and radio, inspect each thoroughly (and smell each for burnt smell), but more importantly examine every inch of EVERY wire that leads to these 2 units all the way from the underhood fuse box to the components themselves (not easy, as you know). I suspect there may be a loom of wires that now has a major short with burnt/melted insulation.
Somewhere there is a short circuit allowing the current to flow straight to earth on the engine or the frame. Blowing a 10 amp fuse means this is a very heavy current so do not be tempted to either fit a higher rated fuse or bypass the fuse. Almost certainly this would cause burnt out wiring and possibly start a fire.
This happened when you switched on the ignition and before you pressed the starter on one occasion. On other occasions the bike has started before blowing the fuse. This suggests that perhaps wiring with damaged insulation is making and breaking contact.
You said you have a new battery. Is it possible that during the fitting of this some damage was done to the wiring? Do you have a meter or can you borrow one? See if you can find out where this current is running to earth without replacing the fuse. ie check after the fuse with a meter.
At times like this it is good to have a friend that is an electrician to help you check.
Check for wire chafing on the frame that might allow the wire to short out. Also, look for signs of rodent issues like dropping, chewed material, seat stuffing etc. (rats and mice chew wiring). 6 months is plenty of time for them to cause some annoying issues. Good luck
Once a fuse blows,it does so for a reason Common Sense In a 60 year driving career you have maybe 6 fuses blow Replacing them 5 out of 6 time they blow again Ask yourself why You need to find the most logical item in that circuit & start testing & that usually requires a wiring diagram or you have no map or now where to start any testing. Something overloaded a circuit find it & replace it or resolve the wiring issue
Get a wiring diagram & see what is on that fused circuit & work that circuit. Leave the fuse out at first & make sure only that fuse & circuit is involved
When a car gets over 15 years old, then & only then, do you start to have fuse issues as wiring, connections,relays,switches & devices using electrical current, start to get loose,corroded,& develop resistance
I would remove & clean every ground wire on the car you can find
Both ends of the battery cables as well
Do voltage drops afterwords on cables
Check for alternator diode leakage or what is called a/c ripple
Check for current draw by putting an amp meter in series with either battery cable & wait for things to time out,make sure you leave the doors closed & allow at least 10 to 15 min.
You shouldn't have over 50 to 70 milli-amps
Just the clock & computer memory & some keep alive items
There is a high probability that when you replaced your fuse box to circuit breakers that the wiring at the fuse box was retightened. If your dryer had been operating Ok for the better part of a year and then you started to blow fuses on a regular basis.. chances are the wiring coming from the fuse box tap was becoming loose from thermal expansion and contraction and that by changing to a breaker system.. your wiring was cut and reterminated to fit the breaker tap. I suspect you won't be having any additional problems...
More than likely its being caused by a short-circuit to ground in the wiring in your Cranking Circuit.
If it blows the fuse immediately after installing the fuse, its probably a hot-wire. If it blows it the second you try to crank it over, its probably one of the wires between your ignition and the Starter Relay.
To track down the bad wire you'll need a Wiring Schematic for the vehicle and either a Digital Volt/Ohm-Meter or Test-Light and a basic understanding of wiring which is... honestly a little hard to explain over the internet. However, that is the only course that can be taken without taking the vehicle to a qualified Dealership Technician.