The black belt in the back of the washer comes off.
The black belt in the back of the washer came off and we put it back on. It became apparent that we needed a new belt after having to put
the belt back on a couple of times. We put the new belt on and in about 4 months we have started having the same problem again. We put it back on and after we put in a partial load of towels it came off again. The pulley in the back is wobbly and we have tightened the bolt on it. Do you have any suggestions on how we can fix this problem?
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Re: The black belt in the back of the washer comes off.
You have a bad bearing. does the washer sound extra load like an airplane taking off or a train coming through your house? Usually when I see a pulley wobbly it's because the rear bearing is going out in your washer. Look in your owners the bearing which is compressed from the factory in the tub...should be covered for a certain amount of time. You just have to pay for the labor. I believe the pulley is covered and the belt as well. check it out
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I would pull the back panel off, and do a general inspection. When moved, things can get moved out of place by bumps and bouncing and may be apparent by inspection. Most front loaders use either a variable diameter pulley or a gearbox to change the drum rotation speed from slosh to spin. Take a look at the belt that on the pulley on the drum 'axle' and see if there is an apparent mechanism to 'shift into hi gear'. The code is just reporting that it could not spin. A visible inspection may reveal the cause.
I have a similar model HE doing the same thing. I just had a friend to look at it and when he pulled out the machine there was nut on the floor that apparently belonged to the screw that was holding the pulley in place for the belt. The belt was totally off. He put the belt back on, but it is still not spinning. So I think you shoukd check that. I've only had my washer for 1 year and 3 months.
Hi, a slipping or severed belt will produce a burned rubber smell. A belt supports the drum and ensures its smooth movement. If it wears, the drum's movements weaken and finally come to an abrupt halt. In addition, a slipped or severed belt usually produces a burned rubber smell. Refer to the washing machine manual to review how to locate the belt. If the belt is no longer around the drum's center, shift the belt back to its original position. If rubber fibers are discernible or cracks are apparent, change out the worn belt for a new one.
The first thing to determine is if the pulley is loose due to wear on the pulley or if the spin bearing in the outer tub is bad.
Remove the belt. Make sure the nut holding the pulley in place is tight.
Wiggle the pulley while shining a bright lamp on it.. is it loose on the shaft or is the shaft moving.
If the shaft is moving.. outer tub needs to be replaced.. and in some cases this means the spin basket as well.
If you remove the pulley..and the inside mating surfaces which are flat on two sides are worn or rounded off.. bad pulley.. the retaining nut may not have been tightened properly.. or it became loose up over time,
However the black dust means the belt has been slipping ..some dust is probably normal due to age.. rubber breaks down..but a lot of dust means friction.. which means something is not turning as freely as it should.
So it has to be a loose retaining nut, worn pulley..or worn failing outer tub bearing.. I am afraid it's more than likely the last one.
Sears Parts Direct will have diagrams for your model..
There are several ways to fix this problem, we need to check first the parts before we do a hard troubleshooting. Check this parts first.
Inspect the drain hose for kinks Test the timer control Test the lid switch(some models) Inspect the water pump Inspect the driver belt(belt drive only) Inspect the motor coupler
Those are the parts that we need to check
washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your
washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace
the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try
to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's
frozen or stiff--replace it.
Remove the back panel to get to the motor which is at the bottom at the back. Notice two bolts holding the motor into the mount. Remove these two bolts. Notice the back part of the motor is sitting in the mount with black rubber washers. Carefully, pull the motor forward, and this will be abit hard. You can take a flat head screw driver and tap down (in between) on each front plastic washer and the motor will slowly come forward. Becarefull because there is a wire harness still attached to the motor. You have to take wire cutters and clip the placstic band holding the wire harness to the motor. Then grip the harness and wiggle it free. Then remove the single wire also. Putting the belt back is a bit tricky too. Make sure you put back the two black rubber washers and the two front plastic washers.
I figured out that the belt went on the bottom of the dryer. It was actually very easy to fix once I realized where the belt went. I made the mistake of opening the front cover of the washer first, which is why I did not see where to put the belt. Apparently, if the washer is not level (since I had too much for a load and it caused the washer to pull out from the wall), the belt shook itself loose.
I have a different suggestion based on my washer's similar problem. If the black stuff is powdery and localized at the back of the unit, more than likely the culprit is the drum pulley itself is warped, causing the belt to chafe against the drum. The black powder is rubber residue from the scraping of belt on plastic. No need to replace unit. New belt and new pulley run about $70 each.