I read you tutorial on Dryer Runs but no heat and I have tested everything. If my heating element checks in around 2-3 ohms is that a sign that its bad? Obviously infinity would indicate a discontinuity but would a reading this low indicate a bad element? Symptoms were long drying times when unhooked from vent, and real long times when hooked up. I had the dryer opened up and started it with a damp towel and it heated for a minute or two then shut off.
Thanks for the help.
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Re: Electric Dryer Heating Element
Hello, yes, 2-3 ohms is kind of low. What I would do is watch the element glow and you should see a solid orange color. Ohms should be around 7. Also, put your hands behind the dryer where you disconnected the vent. You should feel a good amount of pressure. If not, then clean out that tube because it might be clogged. Thanks for your question and best of luck.
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Sep 6, 2013 - Uploaded by ApplianceVideo.com
Repair your trusty Maytag Electric Dryer suffering from some of the ... However, in REGULAR mode, it runs normal too, but theheat stops ...
Oct 12, 2013 - Uploaded by Bill Newberry
How to test the heating element on a Maytag Dryer. If you Maytagdryer is running but not heating these are what you need to check. ... The dryer runs but does not heat. .... Not heating Maytag electric dryer - Duration: 19:38.
Check the thermal fuse. The fuse can be tested reading impedance.You can replace the fuse straight away, or you can
first test it using a multimeter set on Ohms. If the multimeter reads
Ohms infinity when you touch the fuse contacts with the probes, then the
fuse is gone. A good fuse will read zero or low impedance.
If the fuse is OK, then you can have a defective
thermostat. In the same way you test
the thermostats, thermistors or cutoff located in the heating group,
near to fan and element. If they are OK, then they will be conductive at
room temperature and will read zero Ohms. If they are bad they read
open (infinity). You need to disconnect the part's contact to test
The rest depends if the dryer is electric or gas.
On electric dryers you test the heating element. The heating element is tested in the same way. Set
multimeter on impedance, disconnect element, and touch contacts with
multimeter probes. If it reads open, then element is gone. A good
element reading depends on the specific model. Most washer-dryers,
including Whirlpool and Maytag read between 10 and 20 Ohms.
With gas appliances you need to test the ignitor, then coils and then the flame sensor. The ignitor is the most common cause for the problem. Heating coils problems are also common. The flame sensor does not fail very often.
on top of the heating element on the left side there is a white 2connector part, that is the heater thermal fuse. disconnect the dryer power cord and one wire of the thermal fuse and use a meter to find out if you have continuity to it. if not replace it. also check for burn wires at heating element. also test heating element by disconnecting one wire and using an ohm meter test it at 2 therminals. it shoul measure 10-12 ohms.
Good day, Timer woun't run if there is n heat. 1. Check to see you are getting 230 volts to the machine. The motor uses only 115 so is not a good indication. 2. Remove back cover. You will need an ohm meter to test the components. A. In the center bottom is a skinny white bakelite device held on with one screw. Remove one wire and check. It should check zero ohms. If not replace. B. On the bottom right is a canister with the heating element terminals sticking out. They should test at 30 or less ohms. If not replace the heating element. C. There are about 3 other limit thermostats in the area you're working. They should all check at zero ohms. Replace as needed.
Below is a tutorial on changing a heating element.
Well a dryer heating element does draw quite a bit of amps(that is why it is 220) but it cycles on and off & it is not an appliance that is used everyday. The first think I would do is read the electric meter and verify that it was not misread before condeming the dryer. If the electric meter reads are correct then it is possible it could be the dryer heating element shorting. How much do you actually use the dryer? Is the heating in your house electric and have you been using it? You could also have your electric company test the meter. Look at your usage of electricity for last year at the same time(it will be on the bill) and see what the number was.
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.
Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.