Question about Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain Garage Door Opener Wireless Keypad Model 976LM Security+

1 Answer

Door won't open

I hit the button on the wall mount or on my remote and the unit just buzzes and won't open. Sometimes it will open for about 5 days then doesn't work for 20. Any help out there?


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  • jwkchansen Feb 11, 2009

    Problem just started today. Left the house, noticed door didn't close all the way so I hit the button again and it closed. Came home, and door would not open. Inside the garage, the wall button just makes the door motor "buzz". There is a lot of tension on one side of the chain. The motor says it is a LiftMaster Security + 1/2 HP.

  • scorp9311 Feb 14, 2009

    It is a Sears 1/2 horsepower. Model 139.53636SRT. I got it in 1994. It is chain driven

    Now I've think I've gone from bad to worse. I just went outside to get info on it and make sure the green lights were on the "eyes" of opener near the ground. I had a flashlight and pointed it in one of the eyes and the green light on one side went off. The other side is green. I measure from the ground and both eyes are the same distance from the ground and from the wall. I even moved them slightly up and down to try and get the other green light on and now it won't go on.

    Now when I hit the button, the motor buzzes and the light flashes..

    Now what?????????????

  • marty metzger May 11, 2010

    disconnet trolley. does it run? is door frozen down?

  • Rob
    Rob May 11, 2010

    What make and model do you have. What kind of drive is it?


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I don't know about the ground sensors, I do know they are a safety feature so it won't come down on something if the eyes are blocked. Try replacing the bad "eye"
For the buzzing noise, check the capacitor to see if it has blown out and requires replacement. To test this, you should be able to disconnect the door, open it manually, reconnect the door to the carriage assembly, and close the door using the GDO. The capacitor is only used to give the machine enough power to initially lift the door. It does not use the capacitor to close. Other signs to a blown capacitor is white secretion physically coming out of the capacitor. Get the MFD (microfarad) number range off the capacitor and the voltage (usually 220 volts, possiblye 330.) and find a replacement capacitor for the brand of your opener.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

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Anytime a door opens and/or closes randomly or doesn’t work consistently I look for a smashed wire between the motor unit and the wall button.

If the wire is smashed the insulation becomes so thin that power will leak thru the insulation and activate the door or interfere with the remote signal.

Loosen the staples with a small screwdriver and slide the wire about ½ inch to move any areas of thin insulation away from the staples.

The second thing would be a bad wall button or a remote with a sticking button.
Or a remote in someone’s purse that gets the button pushed by other stuff in the purse.

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