Where the drain hose goes into the plumbing pipe next to the washing
machine, water starts coming out out the top of the pipe when the
machine is running. The black drain hose hangs down into the white
We have tried snaking it from inside and from the roof with no luck. any suggestions?
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Re: Leak from pipe/wahing machine drain hose
Try running the snake from the top to the bottom. they ell pressure hose ends that you inser into the pipe on the end of a hose and when you turn the water on it weslls and applies pressure to push out whatever is in there. they cost about 8.00 and you can buy them at lowes or home depot. just tell them what you need and that it screws onto the end of a hose for unclogging backed up drains. im not sure whats its called but they will know
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see this causes and fix it. God bless you This happens on new installations usually. The drain hose must be higher
than the highest fill height of the washer. If the drain hose is to low
it will create a siphon effect and drain the machine. Next is the drain
hose is to tight in the standpipe. The standpipe is your homes
plumbing. If the drain hose does not have an air gap aroung it, it can
cause a siphon effect and start draining your machine as it fills. If
none of these are the problem and your drain pump is running at the same
time it is filling you will need to replace the control. For top load
machines follow this video and for front load machines follow the tutorial.
A leak at the back of a washing machine can come from several sources. It requires a good investigation. Here are some of the first area to look at that are on the outside of the machine
1 Hot and Cold Fill Hoses may not be tight enough. So water can drip down the hose, or back of machine onto the floor 2 Drain Hose-Usually about an inch or so in diameter. Hose in new machines should not leak itself, but if it is not mounted or attached well enough into the drainage plumbing mounted on the wall (The box with the Hot and Cold Water Shut-offs, it will leak or splash water onto the floor during the drain cycle. 3 Damaged plumbing in the wall can seep under the wall and end up under the washer. This is very rare, but I have seen it.
4 There is a filter mounted behind a panel on the lower back side of the machine. It is possible a leak is occurring from that area. Take off the cover and see.
If the above don't handle it, the next step is for what is not easy to detect. Leaks inside the machine. You will need to go into it and LOOK with your eyes and a good flashlight. Hope this helps, Best, Mark
The automatic clothes washing machine counts on a pressured water system - like what is provided in a town / city or from a well that has a pressure system to deliver water at pressure like when you open a valve for a bath tub, sink or shower.
You need to have a plumber provide valve/faucets for both hot and cold water. The valves are sometimes called a "hose bibb" with a threaded end that the hoses connect to and then are connected to the back of the washer. When the hoses are connected and the valves are open, the automatic washer will open a solenoid valve when the time is right to allow water to flow in, then closees. Some owners keep the hose bibb valves open forever after they connect the washer, others close the valves after they are done washing all loads for the day/week.
You will also need a drain provided that connects into the house plumbing. The Whirlpool Duet provides the drain hose from the washer which drops into the pipe the plumber provides. It is important that the drain pipe allow air to move past the washers drain hose, to allow proper draining.
Hope that helps. Please post back how things come out, OK?
It sounds more like you have a drain problem that a machine problem. Try draining into the laundry tub and check that the tub drains quickly enough. If not, you have a plumbing problem...Good luck...Nomess
Hello , here is the fix-your drain hose is placed to low in the drain line in the wall, it can not be placed in water or it will siphon the water out of your washer into the drain pipe and it wont stop until it hits air. try pulling your drain hose up and out of the drain and get a zip tie or cable and tie it to one of the water valves by the drain pipe placing the end of the drain hose about 5-6 inches inside the drain pipe. Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck it will work.
The problem with the new washing machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.
#1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6" brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not corrode like a galvanized nipple.
#2 There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around the drain hose tightly.
#3 Some situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the drain.
#4 Some situations will require that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not support the discharge. Your drain line will need to be changed to 2". This option will be one of the more costly fixes, depending on the amount of line that needs to be changed.
#5 Some plumbing installations installed without a p-trap will need to be changed. The p-trap keeps sewer gas from coming back into the house. It also allows for a smooth transition into the drain line. Any restrictions in the drain line (i.e. ells, tees,) will cause the soap in the gray water to foam up which will cause the drain line to slowly back up.