Question about Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air Conditioner

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Series 100 model no. 58ssb095bc carrier gas fired surnace

The existing inducer fan is making some loud sounds when comming on. The existing heating system is locking out. When testing and jumpering out the blocked vent switch the system comes on. The existing flue serving the existing heating system is open. The system will fire normally for serveral days and lock out again. Are the blocked vent switches only good for sensing only one flue gas failure or should it be replaced. Also could the existing fan induced motor be defective and is not removing all the flue gases causing the blocked vent switch sensor to open and lock down the heating system. I thank you in advance for your attention to this matter.

Bill

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If it is making noise, the motor may be ready to give out. The pressure switch could be faulty, but it sounds as if you need to replace the vent motor if you can find a replacement. Otherwise you've got to replace the entire vent.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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No heat from furnace, Goodman GMPN080-4 Rev A. Cycle is solid red status light, then 3 flashes indicating open pressure switch because the inducer fan does not come on.


Jimbo, it sounds like you are aware of the operational sequence to suggest using a voltmeter to check the actual wires going TO the combustion air fan...if there is no voltage from the board, the board is bad. Just make sure one of the high temp limits are not open... one may be in the blower compartment on some and one will be near the top of the vestibule and a roll out switch should be near the burners. They should all be wired in series.

Always check the manual reset safty switches as the first step in troubleshooting.

Nov 21, 2015 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

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Heater check out list for heater failures


Almost all furnaces built after 1978 have intermittant type pilots.
Ca banned them requiring electronic spark or hot surface ignitors, followed by induced draft motors, pressure switches or centrifigal switches that "prove" a induced draft exists, allowing the pilot sequence to commence.
electronic spark type units have a high voltage low amperage spark that is AC. Fire rectifies electricity that passes through it meaning AC becomes DC ! Fire is a terrible conducter however as a result , the DC signal is only milliamps/volts signal strength. the DC prescence is proof a flame exists for pilot, and safe to commence to mainburners.

As long as pressure switches stay closed, safeties and limits stay closed
and the DC signal to the ignition module is not broken, the furnace will run.

The normal sequence of operation is upon a call for heat from the thermostat a 24 volt signal is sent to W white (heat circuit) at the low voltage terminal board on furnace.
from there depending on unit and age the heat circuit may include a circuit board, but it still has the typical limits and safetys reqired for operation
its just not using electromechanical relays to control fan and induced draft motor etc.

for the induced draft to begin ,all limits, safetys in heat circuit must be closed.

induced draft begins and a proving switch, either pressure or centrifigal close allowung the pilot to begin, a spark or hot surface ignitor is energized and a pilot flame established,modern types use flame rectification to prove a flame, older Carrier, Payne,types have a 3 wire switch in the piloyt assembly that is a bi metal that expands and contracts clicking open and shut, allowing pilot or main burners, depending if cold or hot.

pressure switches are attached with tubing to the induced draft wheel housing and sense pressure differential and close upon induced draft running, the orifices that the tube attaches to on induced draft housing often plugs or is restricted causing pressure switch to fail to close, or waver on open and close , open , close, .

if you can run the fan in the on postion , you have both high and low voltage to the furnace.

if you dont have fan control check power, breaker , fuses.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Heat lock out and blower runs


It sounds like you may be having a high limit trip, but I need more details.

Feb 01, 2014 | Gibson KG7SC072D24B 72,000 BTU 92.1% Gas...

1 Answer

Sharp sound bar buzzing


test this steps and fix it. God bless you

  1. MagnetronIf your microwave is emanating high pitched or growling noises during operation, the magnetron could be going bad. Normally a nearly silent part, the magnetron uses high voltage and induces the frequency required to cook food. Although normally not a safety hazard to operate, this is a sign that the magnetron is failing and will need to be replaced as soon as possible.
  2. Exhaust fan motorIf your microwave is making a very loud humming noise during operation, it could possibly be the exhaust fan motor. If defective the part will need to be replaced to silence the appliance once more.
  3. Stirrer motorAnother leading cause of a noisy microwave is an expired stirrer motor. With use this part becomes worn and makes a loud grinding noise, which is usually a leading indicator that the part needs to be replaced. The stirrer is a metal blade that is slowly turned by the motor. This action disperses the microwave energy in a random pattern, which heats the food evenly. If the stirrer motor is determined to be nearing expiration, it should be replaced to halt the grinding noise.
  4. Turntable motorA very common cause for a noisy microwave is a worn out turntable motor. This is a relatively easy repair and will put an end to the noise once replaced.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/microwave-repair-help.html#13#ixzz2hVe8AHvJ
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Oct 12, 2013 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Hello, our 4 yr old goodman gmv9-gcv9 two stage gas furnace stopped heating our addition, it has 3 flashes from the red LED code. it says the low fire pressure switch is stuck open. i took off the switched...


Check the air intake pipe and if you can , remove it from the furnace temporally. It will be the one going to the burner not the inducer fan. Inspect the exhaust pipe for any ice, sags where water could collect and any debris. Take a jumper and when the inducer spins up to speed, put the jumper across the two terminals going to the pressure switch. If the unit fires up, you have either a bad pressure switch or a bad inducer fan. If you get it running, check for vacuum at the pressure switch hose. Only one hose will have pressure. If none, bad inducer. Blow out any condensate hoses you have on it. Your pressure switch works on vacuum not pressure, so test by applying slight pressure and use a multi-meter.

Jan 23, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Pilot is not trying to light on my carrier comfort 80 (electric pilot). I was getting a error code of 13 that has cleared but now have an error code of 33. I have tried turning the unit off by using the...


13 is a pressure switch error code. Check the venting for any blockage of snow, ice or debris. Make sure the air filter is clean. Check the condensate hose and drain and pump if you have one. Check the pressure switch to make sure there is no moisture in it and the hoses are clear. Look into the inducer fan assembly for debris. You can test the pressure switch by hooking up a jumper to one terminal of the switch and keep the wire connected to it. After the inducer fan gets up to speed, take the other end of the jumper and connect it to the other terminal of the switch still keeping the wire on it connected. If it fires up, replace the pressure switch.

Jan 17, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

My Goodman GMS 90703BXA gas furnace started making higher then normal pitch sounds yesterday. The noise seems to come from the forced draft fan and it only happens in say 3 out of 10 starts so far. The fan...


Check the vacume in your inducer motor. Ensure it is pulling at least -9. If you don't have the equipment, you'll have to wait till it has a problem. Or, pay a tech to come out and service your system, with particular attention to the inducer fan..

Dec 07, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

HEATER MAKING LOUD NOISES


Check the draft inducer motor for any partial blockages or dibri.

I've seen sticks, birds nest particles and pieces of deteriorating fan blades (squirrel cage type fans) cause this.

You might also find that the inducer motors bearing are going.

If its a loud vibrating grinding type noise, I'd suspect bearings or missing pieces of the blades. (unbalanced)
If it's a clanking type noise I'd suspect loose items hitting the fan.

The inducer motor will only operate right before and during burner operation, while the blower motor can operate at any time depending on your setting.

Dec 06, 2008 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

2 Answers

Janitrol/Goodman GMP075-3 Draft Inducer Fan Won't come on


most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.

Oct 25, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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