No ac seems to be under some load when running empty
Gen is easy to turn manully,not jamming. nothing rubbing any place ,brushes.etc. seem to be okay. no hint of burnt wires on stator or anywhere else. is there anything else i can check ex. fields with ohmeter ? thanks.
Re: no ac seems to be under some load when running empty
I'm not for sure what your asking, but i'll try. I believe your saying you have no a/c out. In the middle of your end plate on the generator there is a little removable cover. Remove it and it will expose your brush connections. Ohm across those terminals. Your meter should read around 10 ohms give or take a little I don't have a chart in front of me. If you get OL(no resistance) your circuit is open either at your brushes or your rotor. If you get a high reading in ohms 80ohm or 50k your problem is the brushes dirty worn out. If that's ok check the capacitor test to its rated farad. Then check the two diodes in the end plate. remember to swap you meter leads around to check both the resistance and gate. The only thing left is the stator and there should be almost no resistance through each winding and not correction to ground. Remember to isolate each circuit as you test or you'll get fails readings. I would also check resistance though every wire and connection. Also if you have replaced parts or have not used the unit in a while once it is back together take a 9 volt battery and touch it to the brush terminals with the correct polarity just for a second to bring back residual magnetism. I believe the out side slip ring is negative. If it dosn't try it the other way it will not hurt anything.
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from your description and what you do , the problem is in the auto control unit
it will be in the system to reduce the rpm to idle when there is no load ( auto mains on off controller switching between genset and mains supply)
by turning the auto operation off you are committing the gen set to full rpms regardless of the power requirement
you have the option of having it fixed at an gen set repair shop or leaving it off and starting the genset only when you have a mains power outage
check with an electrician to ensure that it is possible to run it that way as if the mains power unit is not correct , when you start it and you still have mains power , it will destroy the gen set
Most common screech, kick and stop is something fouling the drum drive. Most common culprit is a bra underwire!
If it runs with the new brushes and then gets noisy and stops on the spin cycle it is likely the sensor switch is the place to start.
The sensor switch is designed to shut down the machine in the event something is wrong - unbalanced load, motor being overloaded, etc.
Sometimes the switch can be put out of alignment if, for example, you knocked it/didn't reinstall it right when you changed the brushes on the motor. (Ok, you shouldn't have touched it but that's beside the point. Often getting to the motor requires removing this switch. I am not familiar with your exact model.)
This requires a service technician to inspect and rectify.
If you want to do it yourself, make sure there's nothing jamming up the works - no foreign objects between the metal wash drum and the plastic drum that it sits inside. (have to dismantle machine to check and this is not easy on a front loading machine. Again, this is REALLY NOT EASY. Be warned.)
There are usually 3 interlock switches:
- the door lock
- a sensor for unbalanced load/motor overload
- machine sitting on level ground
A washing machine as powerful as yours must be certain that everything is right because otherwise it can literally self destruct. So the manufacturers install lots of safety mechanisms to avoid product recalls and burning customers homes down!!
If you can't easily see what's causing the problem, pay the coin for a service technician to visit. It is money well spent.
DC07s have two drivebelts that turn the brush bar - one connects the output of the motor to the clutch, the other connects the clutch to the brush bar. You can check the latter simply by removing the sole plate and looking. Unfortunately the other belt is hidden under a plastic cover, so you cant see if it is okay or not without some dismantling. This cover is not easy to remove and requires a Torx driver to under the securing screws. If, after removing the cover, the other belt is okay, then you have a faulty clutch. New clutches are available on eBayreasonably cheaply, but again good tools and DIY skills are required. Have a look atwww.dysonmedic.comwhich has some excellent info on dismantling and repairing a DC 07, but unless you have accessto such tools, and feel confident to tackle it, it's probably time to callDyson or a Vacuumrepairer.
I have had problems with the belts on my Mach 5 overheating (smell of burning rubber) and also with the motor overheating and shutting down.
I learned the hard way that one of the issues might be that the roller/brush on the bottom of the unit has a metal bearing inside the roller/brush that can become clogged with hair (both human and pet hair) which effects performance of the unit. It’s fairly easy to fix.
Lay the vacuum on the floor so that you can see the roller/brush. Then remove the phillip head screws that hold the protective plastic plate over the roller/brush. (There are about 6 screws that hold this plastic protective plate in place) Also, you will be removing the (1) screw that also holds the plastic plate over the belts. There are (2) belts that you can remove and when in doubt replace these (2) belts for around $9.00.
Once you have the protective plastic plate off that covers the roller/brush disconnect the belt is around the roller. Take the roller and cut off any hair that is wrapped around the roller. Next, grab the roller by each end and twist the ends caps and (1) of the ends will unscrew. Once you have unscrewed one of the ends remove any hair or dust that is trapped under this cap. (Be careful not to lose the small metal washer that sit on top of the bearing)You will notice under this cap is a metal bearing that can become clogged and jammed with hair. The hair should come out fairly easy and allow the brush to spin fairly easy once you have screwed the end caps back in place test that it spins freely. If it doesn’t spin freely replace the roller/brush with a new one for about $23.00.
When you put the belts back on the thick rubber one (Belt # 40201-271) has probably become stretched and should be replaced for about $3.00. The small diameter belt that goes over the roller/brush probably does not usually need to be replaced and does not usually fit very tight. I have heard that people will take the small roller/brush belt and turn it upside down to get a better fit.
I just did this on my Mach 5 and it runs like a new machine. I did end up replacing the roller/brush head.
Hopefully you will find this useful.
The other possibility is there is a blockage in the foot. these models have dual channel air flow (windtunnel) and become blocked when not cleaned depending on use. under the roller there is a cavity that can be removed for cleaning. a hot motor can be caused by poor air flow.
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i remember click is the motor relay engaging.
reason for no rotation may be the motor brushes.
take back panel off, disconnect motor elec plug, undo fixing bolts and withdraw motor and you can then check brushes. also check condition of commutator - series of copper segments brushes run on
all in the timer. but there may be nothing wrong. sometimes in the cycle there will be a gap between water full and agitate or between drain and spin depending on settings. try it again and let it go and if there is a gap of more than 5 minutes than it needs a timer. most machines timers are right around $75 and you can most likely replace it yourself. sears appliance parts is the place to buy it. you can order it and they will deliver it to your door. or if you can get the phone # most of the outlets have a parts dept. also they take parts back for full credit for any reason.