No ac seems to be under some load when running empty
Gen is easy to turn manully,not jamming. nothing rubbing any place ,brushes.etc. seem to be okay. no hint of burnt wires on stator or anywhere else. is there anything else i can check ex. fields with ohmeter ? thanks.
Re: no ac seems to be under some load when running empty
I'm not for sure what your asking, but i'll try. I believe your saying you have no a/c out. In the middle of your end plate on the generator there is a little removable cover. Remove it and it will expose your brush connections. Ohm across those terminals. Your meter should read around 10 ohms give or take a little I don't have a chart in front of me. If you get OL(no resistance) your circuit is open either at your brushes or your rotor. If you get a high reading in ohms 80ohm or 50k your problem is the brushes dirty worn out. If that's ok check the capacitor test to its rated farad. Then check the two diodes in the end plate. remember to swap you meter leads around to check both the resistance and gate. The only thing left is the stator and there should be almost no resistance through each winding and not correction to ground. Remember to isolate each circuit as you test or you'll get fails readings. I would also check resistance though every wire and connection. Also if you have replaced parts or have not used the unit in a while once it is back together take a 9 volt battery and touch it to the brush terminals with the correct polarity just for a second to bring back residual magnetism. I believe the out side slip ring is negative. If it dosn't try it the other way it will not hurt anything.
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ac units are 2000 watts minimum, washing machines are 1500 watts minimum, microwave is what is on the plate and start at 650 watts but most are 2000 watts
the 2400 is the peak out put for start up of fridge , washer etc and the running wattage will be 2000 watts or less ( duty cycle )
to run more than one of the nominated items at once you will be needing a 5500 to-6500 watts unit
they handle a start up surge of 6500 watts ( larger one) and will comfortably handle 5500 watts run full load
it works like this , the plate on the gen set is the surge short time load capacity of the genset and not the duty load which is 500 to 750 watts less than that plate wattage
for example your 2400 is is surge rated at 2400 watts but duty load is less than the 2000 watts
many people make the mistake of buying a gen set that looks big enough but do not calculate the maximum load capable on being put on the gen set
fully loaded uses more fuel /hr
wears out faster
has power surges as the extra load cuts in and the motor struggles to get back to required rpms for voltage and cycles
will not cover extras like lights ,
a much large gen set will take it all in it's stride , no power surges, better economy, less stress
talk with an electrician , do your maths on everything you wish to run and that which you forgot about then add 1000 watts to the duty cycle and that will be close to the gen set you require
check the load being applied as gen sets will not work if overloaded
check the rating and then check the duty rating as there is a big difference between then two
for instance a get set with a decal saying that it is 3000 kws will only suffer such a load if a unit starts ( fridge , ac etc ) up but the operating ;load is 2500 kw
next , gen sets have a fine filter in the tap that is screwed into the tank so check that for restriction
next gen sets run a metal tap and these corrode internally and restrict fuel flow
I can't advise on the electrics but on my gen the auto idle works off the gen load. Load=revs up. No load=cut to idle. Fix one will probably fix the other. Husqvarna is part of Electrolux if thats any help identify the generator unit.
Seems that you have covered all the bases. The problem that you describe could be related to fuel lock or restriction in the fuel delivery system. Easy to check. Remove the air filter and have carb cleaner ready. If you are near the gen when it begins to quit, spray just a little carb cleaner to see if engine tries to run. If engine begins to run or continues to run with carb cleaner, then suspect fuel delivery problem. If the engine seems to stop quicker with carb cleaner, suspect flooding caused by too much fuel pressure (fuel pushed past the needle due to pressure in the tank; open fuel cap and listen for air pressure release). Fuel delivery problems are caused by collapsed fuel line, restriction in the fuel cut-off valve, restriction at the fuel filter (use larger automotive type), negative pressure in tank caused by no vent at cap. Rare problem with fuel delivery is caused by sudden heat rise at the carb causing fuel to boil out of carb. This is caused by the engine running very hot, lack of air across cooling ribs caused by debris or fan missing blades. You can eliminate the complete fuel delivery system by mounting a small fuel tank on a stand and running fuel line directly to the carb for test. The tank needs to be higher than the carb so that you will have good gravity feed. Good luck
I have a 5 year old EU300is that would not start with or without the battery. I went through all the usual such as gas, plug, oil, etc. The battery showed 12 volts, however, when tested further it would not hold a load. I bought a new American made battery and now the unit runs fine.
There is no fuse. Most common problems are loose connector from panel to gen set, worn brushes, faulty rectifier board or needs to be spiked (more serious reasons but lets not go there). Brushes and panel easy to check, remove cover to gen. and look at brushes for good contact to com. rings. Remove rectifier board from mount and look at capacitor for leaks or swelling. Replace as needed. Parts are available at jackssmallengine. com There are many ways to spike gen. as seen when you google the subject, however I just use a one amp 12v battery charger (or any small dc power supply 1/2 amp to 1 amp) and very quickly/split second contact brush connector while engine is running. Mind polarity, you must know which brush is positive. Usually on coleman the brush closest to bearing is positive. Spiking works immediately, if no joy, more serious problems exist. Dont worry, you cant break anything doing this, remember it is already broken. Post again if you have other question. Good luck