Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

7 Answers

Off balance washer on pedestal on plastic tub 2nd floor laundry

The problem is that our Whirlpool GHW9150PW3 washer is off balance and makes the house shake, however since it is on the 2nd floor, our builder had to install a plastic tub underneath the washer in case of leaks to provide our home warranty. Since the washer itself is connected to the pedestal and the pedestal feel are unaccessible due to sitting in a tub with a lip on it, we cannot get to the feet for adjustment. Any suggestions? It's too heavy to lift and adjust, and we can't fit a dolly underneath due to the tub. Any suggestions? The warranty lapsed 2 months ago, so having someone to come to house is pricy in itself and I'm not sure what they could do.

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  • kellyj_osu Feb 02, 2009

    And those can be replaced with the situation that I'm in? It seems as if the front left corner pedestal foot needs adjusted to balance it, but I can't get to that foot to troubleshoot it due to the pan. And I'm not even sure it would help since the pan itself is warp prone plastic anyhow. Are those shock absorbers DIY replacable if I order the parts online, or is that a service call would require to install it properly to troubleshoot the poor balance

  • kellyj_osu Feb 02, 2009

    Added comments, as I don't know how to proceed. Thanks!

  • kellyj_osu Feb 02, 2009

    Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology, it shakes on the spin cycle because the entire unit, washer and pedestal are not level. I can't correct the level myself because it sits in a plastic floor pan on top of ceramic tile and the tub is permanent. I think if the unit were level, it wouldn't shake or be unbalanced.

  • kellyj_osu Feb 02, 2009

    I have read the owners manual and can't see where you adjust the feet of the machine since it's attached to the pedestal. Can you explain how that works so I can try it?

  • kellyj_osu Feb 02, 2009

    see comments, and is a spirit level different from a standard level?

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If there's a loud thumping noise during the spin cycle, the load of clothes has probably gotten unbalanced. Open the lid, redistribute the clothes in the washer, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary. Washing machine dancing across the floor?Here's some tips on how to keep it in its place.It's very important your washing machine be perfectly level and on a solid, stable floor. Off-balance washing machines sometimes shimmy across the floor or even do a full-out jig. This dancing is often accompanied by loud banging noises. If this happens to you, here's how to fix it yourself:http://www.applianceaid.com/washing_machine_help.html

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Yes, there is...The legs on the washer are adjustable, the rear legs are often ( not always ) self adjusting, make sure the legs are not stuck and that they can move freely. But the front legs can screw in and out to move the washer depending on the floor the washer is sitting on. Make sure the washer is as low to the floor as possible. When the legs are screwed out too far the washer becomes wobbly. Often on the metal style legs there are lock nuts that can be tightened to secure the legs so they don't move on you. washers where really meant to sit on a cement floor, if your washer is on a wooden floor look carefully at the strength of the floor. If the floor is moving up and down when the washer is running, the floor may not be strong enough to support the washers weight. Most main floor laundry rooms floors are nailed down, the sub-floor is more secure if the sub-floor has been screwed down. Sometimes extra support may have to be added under the flooring to add some strength

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

An alternative manner of addressing your problem is to insert a wedge shape block of wood under the lowest end of the plastic tub assuming that the plastic tub is strong enough to carry the weight of the washer even on an uneven level. As to the size of the wedge, you will have to wing it depending on how much you need to raise one side/end. You might be better off preparing a couple of the wedges. A rubber mallet would help in forcing the wedge between the bottom of the plastic tub and the floor. Of course, pls be careful and apply only enough force to attain the objective and not compound the issue.

Pls post back how things turned up. Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Hi there
All the comments posted so far are good ones, what you can try however is re-balance the machine using the adjustable feet that are underneath the machine, you can adjust the leveling by unscrewing or screwing the feet until you have the machine leveled. Get hold of a spirit level to make sure the level is correct.

Good luck and thanks for using Fixya!

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

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Check the rubber shock absorbers on all four corners of the tub under the lid. Also i know its heavy but can you rock the washer when its not on? If so then you will have to have someone to lean the washer so you can adjust the feet.

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • James Bradburn
    James Bradburn Feb 02, 2009

    I understand that its heavy and that the feet may need adjustment, but the only other thing can be is to get some strong help to eather tilt the washer so some one can get under it with a wrench or have someone to take it out and put it on the floor for adjustment then put it back in the pan.

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If the washer is off balance check springs, shocks and shell, if this cannot solfe the problem, and there is no problem in the strut, then you must replace the drum bearing, as that, and not bunbalanced appliance, is the cause of the shaking.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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The rubber balance shock absorbers are bad.(Very common problem on this model)

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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Front Loader Excessive Vibration


When the manufacturers first introduced the front load washers, they did not take into consideration the possible problems created by the centrifugal force of the washer's spinning action. Most of these washers spin in excess of 1200 rpms! A spinning action that fast, coupled with the washers heavy weight and a floor that flexes (even a little) will cause a resonant vibration. In simple terms, it will cause the washer to bounce or walk.

Some of the early manufactured shock absorbers, weren't up to par and were uable to maintain the washer suspension over continuous use. The manufacturer's improved the shock absorbers to make them more stiff and minimize vibration. Replacing the shocks with heavier duty shocks does help, but if the flooring is not substantial enough the washer will continue to have problems.

If the washer is mounted on a pedestal, this can make the problem worse. Early model pedestals had an open back which caused it to "tin can" when the washer spun. "Tin-canning" is the phenomenon of the sides of the pedestal casing waffling in and out as the weight of the washer rides on top of it. This would also cause excessive vibration. The solution: The manufacturers redesigned the pedestals with an enclosed back that would prevent this from happening. If your washer is a later model, you should have an enclosed back on the pedestal. If there is no back panel, a stiffiner kit can be purchased and installed by any Do-It-Yourselfer. All you need is a drill and a screwdriver. Instructions are included. The part number is 134682000. I found it listed at searspartsdirect.com.

Check the leveling of the washer. You need to adjust the feet of the washer ensure it is level front-to-back and side-to-side. The feet are adjusted using a wrench to turn the legs up or down. Use a level to check your work. Once completed, you should be able to place your hands diagonally across opposite corners of the washer top and see if the washer moves at all. If unlevel (just the slightest) the washer will vibrate during the spin cycle. If the washer is mounted on a pedestal, you level the feet of the pedestal, NOT the washer. Make sure the washer is firmly mounted to the pedstal fisrt. Then, level the feet of the pedestal using the same procedures outlined before.

Another cheap method to get rid of vibration is to use foam padding to sandwich between the sides of the washer, the dryer and the wall. Swimming pool noodle foam works real well and is very inexpensive. About $3 or $4.

Overloading the washer with heavy items can cause excessive vibration due to an unbalanced load. If you load items so full that you can barely close the door, the load will have a hard time distributing evenly around the perimeter of the wash tub. Once wet, and the tub begins to tumble, the load becomes entangled and will pack on one side of the tub. This will cause the washer to jump and walk across the floor on the spin cycle. This can also cause premature wear to the door bellow, damage to the door latch and damage to the shock supports and counter-weights. Always follow the manufacturer's wash load recommendations as outlined in your owner's manual.

Now...when you've checked every other possibility, its simply not the washer. Most consumers don't like to hear this (especially owner's of newer homes). The worst places you can put a front loading washing machine is in a mobile home, or an upstairs laundry room. The floors in these areas are usually not as reinforced. Even homes with a laundry room over a crawl space or basement can sometimes have problems if the floor flexes. Most home builders don't take added reinforcement into consideration for the installation of a front loading washer.

An inexpensive way to reinforce a laundry room floor is to install a 4 x 8 sheet of heavy plywood under the washer. The plywood has to be a minimum of 3/4 inches thick and needs to be secured (screwed down) to the existing floor. This distributes the weight of the washer better. You can also safely fit BOTH the washer and dryer on top of it. A lot of people don't like this idea, because they feel it wrecks the look of the existing floor. I have seen homeowners, install a reinforcement this way and add paint, trim molding, and even tile to give it that "supposed to be there" look.

You may get mixed reviews about this, but I have seen it work for homeowners. Plus, its a less expensive option than hiring a contractor to firm up your sub-flooring or joists.

I hope you find this information informative and helpful. If you have questions, please let me know.

on Dec 13, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Wm 2487H. My machine is off balance and shake the house terribly bad. It also has a metalic scraping sound sometimes when the drum spins. I just purchased my LG washer and dryer a couple of months ago. I...


Starting in November 2008--LG introduced "square door" model washers.
These washers will (unlike round door models) perform very well on wood floors.
If the WM2487 washer is on a wood floor--even a tiled wood floor--it will be near impossible to get smooth spin performance.
Some homeowners have had success by adding two layers of 3/4 inch wood under the washer AND dryer.
The following steps were taken:
1) Remove washer & dryer
2) Cut & remove any floor covering (bare wood)
3) Locate floor joists with a stud-finder & mark locations at the edge of the flooring--allows finding the joist locations after 3/4 sheet is laid to floor.
4) Add wood glue to floor
5) Place 3/4 inch wood sheet to floor & drive screws thru wood into joists (as many scews as deemed necessary to fully & completely compress wood sheet to existing floor
6) Add wood glue to 1st wood sheet
7) Place 2nd 3/4 inch wood sheet on top of 1st wood layer and drive screws into floor joists.
8) Add molding if desired
9) Re-install washer & dryer and level.
10) Add one heavy towel into washer tub & close door ( this will mimick an off-center load)
11) Press power "on" button
12) Press "Spin Speed" button & select high speed spin option
13) Press "Start" button
14) When * 9 minutes remaining * is displayed--use the flat wrenchette that comes with every LG washer to "tweak" the adjustment of the front leveling legs. This will allow for "fine tuning" adjustment of the front leveling leg(s) to eliminate vibration / noise during the spin cycle. The rear leveling legs DO NOT need further adjustment.
NOTE: Those with pedestals--check the front leveling legs on the washer and on the pedestals (front only) during spin.

Jul 16, 2009 | LG WM2487H Front Load Washer

4 Answers

Walking Washer on pedestral


The recommendation by the service tech is actually a very common and very effective solution to your problem. I'm sure it was explained to you, but for the interest of anyone else reading this, I'll explain it again.

When the manufacturers first introduced the front load washers, they did not take into consideration the possible problems created by the centrifugal force of the washer's spinning action. Most of these washers spin in excess of 1200 rpms! A spinning action that fast, coupled with the washers heavy weight and a floor that flexes (even a little) will cause a resonant vibration. In simple terms, it will cause the washer to bounce or walk. Replacing the shocks with heavier duty shocks does help, but if the flooring is not substantial enough the washer will continue to have problems.

Another cause could be your pedestal. Early model pedestals had an open back which caused it to "tin can" when the washer spun. "Tin-canning" is the phenomenon of the sides of the pedestal casing waffling in and out as the weight of the washer rides on top of it. This would also cause excessive vibration. The solution: The manufacturers redesigned the pedestals with an enclosed back that would prevent this from happening (You would think they would have figured this stuff out during testing phase of manufacturing, huh?) If your washer is a later model, you will have an enclosed back on the pedestal. If there is no back panel, a stiffiner kit can be purchased and installed by yourself. All you need is a drill and a screwdriver. Instructions are included. The part number is 134682000. I found it listed at searspartsdirect.com.

Yet another possibility is the leveling of the machine. Since yours is mounted on top of a pedestal, you need to make sure you are leveling the feet of the pedestal, not the washer. If the washer is properly mounted, it is bolted to the top of the pedestal frame. You should then adjust the feet of the pedestal to ensure it level front-to-back and side-to-side.

Now...when you've checked every other possibility, its simply not the washer. Most consumers don't like to hear this (especially owner's of newer homes). The worst places you can put a front loading washing machine is in a mobile home, or an upstairs laundry room. The reason - the floors are usually not as reinforced. Even homes with a laundry room over a crawl space or basement can sometimes have problems if the floor flexes. Most home builders don't take added reinforcement into consideration for the installation of a front loading washer.

I told you ALL of this information to finally get to this point. An inexpensive way to reinforce a laundry room floor is to install a 4 x 8 sheet of heavy plywood under the washer. The plywood has to be a minimum of 3/4 inches thick and needs to be secured (screwed down) to the existing floor. This distributes the weight of the washer better. You can also safely fit BOTH the washer and dryer on top of it. A lot of people don't like this idea, because they feel it wrecks the look of the existing floor. I have seen homeowners, install a reinforcement this way and add paint and trim molding to give it that "supposed to be there" look.

You may get mixed reviews about this, but I have seen it work for homeowners. Plus, its a less expensive option than hiring a contractor to firm up your sub-flooring or joists.

I hope you find this information informative and helpful. If you have questions, please let me know.

NOTE: This problem will apply to any front loader with floor reinforcement issues no matter what the brand name is.

May 19, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Washer unbalanced on final spin, cannot stop the unbalance


Hi Sparky,
The reason it's out of balance is because the skate plate shoes are worn out and need to be replaced. You'll have to access the washer in order to do this. There's a video available that shows how to do it.

After you have opened up the washer you'll see that the tub is sitting on a three legged pedestal. The shoes are in between the skate plate and the top of the pedestal. Here's a picture (and part number) to illustrate...

bc62875.jpg

Do one shoe at a time by lifting the skate plate off of the pedestal about an inch or so and wedging it there (I use a hammer handle as a wedge). The shoes simply snap into place, so the old ones will have to be snapped out of place first. Use another hammer and tap the shoes out of their sockets from underneath.

NOTE! ---> When you place the new shoe into its' place DO NOT try to snap it in!!! (if you do, you'll break it) Just let it rest in it's place for now. Remove your wedge and allow the full weight of the tub to sit on it. Then move on to the next shoe and repeat.

After all 3 shoes have been replaced it's time to snap them in completely. Do this from the top of the tub. Using your body weight, press down on the tub from above on all three corners (where the shoes are located). This will apply even pressure to the top of the shoe and keep it from breaking. You should have all 3 snapped in now. Use a flashlight and look underneath to verify (you should see the tabs of the shoes poking all the way through the pedestal).

Now all that's left is to rebuild the washer cabinet and start some laundry!

SG

p.s. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but this job can be done easily within an hour and the parts only cost ~$12.00!


Apr 01, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool GHW9300PW water leak


The problem, I suspect, is the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot on the door and front of the tub. The key is the fact that it only leaks during fill, or when adding water, and only leaks in the front center. The washer fills through a dispenser tube in the door bellow. Water runs through this tube and into the front portion of the tub. If you pull back the rubber folds of the bellow and look, you may have some rips or tears causing the water to drip out. If there are no obvious signs of wear causing the leak, the other two possibilities would be the dispenser tube not inserted through the bellow all the way. That is, the tube may have slipped behind the bellow a bit and may be causing water to drip BEHIND the bellow instead of through the fill port. Another cause would be if one of the clamps that hold the bellow in place has come loose and is not sealing to the front of the tub, or door frame properly. The following link explains how to replace a door bellow:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385211-replacing_door_bellow_whirlpool_duet

I provide this link not only to give you advice in the event that your bellow needs replaced, but also to give you steps necessary to access the bellow in order the check or tighten the clamps. NOTE: An alternate method to checking the rear bellow clamp (located on the front of the tub) is to remove the washer top panel and attempt to access the 7mm clamp nut from the top. The method I have described in the link, however, offers the best access. NOTE: The clamp needs to be seated evenly around the entire perimeter of the tub facing and the clamp should be SNUG. DO NOT overtighten. This will cause damage to the clamp and/or tub facing.

If you require a replacement, you can order on line at appliancepartspros.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" heading for item number 5. Other items of interest are the rear bellow clamp, item 6 and the front bellow clamp, item 14. In most cases the clamps do not require replacement and can be reused. But, just in case you have to replace them, you now have them identified.

You can perform this repair on your own, if you like and save the cost of expensive labor charges. This is not a difficult repair, if you follow the instructions provided. This repair can usually cost $200 or more (cost of the part, plus the labor) if you have a repairman do it.

The problem could possibly have been caused by excessive vibration, but its hard to tell. Washers mounted on a pedestal can often have vibration problems if the washer is not mounted properly to the pedestal. Make sure all mounting bolts are installed that hold the washer to the pedestal. Make sure they are tight. Also, proper leveling can be an issue. DO NOT attempt to level the feet of the washer on a pedestal. Mount the washer and adjust the feet of the pedestal for proper leveling. Make sure the unit rests on a flat surface and is level front-to-back and side-to-side. A good foundation is also required to ensure the washer does not vibrate. If the flooring under these washers flex (even the slightest) they can cause vibration problems even if it is properly leveled. Flooring in an upstairs laundry room or a mobile home is usually the worst. Another item to consider is the pedestal itself. Look at the back of the pedestal. Is it open in the back, or does it have a back panel that encloses it? If the pedestal back is open, this can cause a condition known as "tin-canning", where the sides of the pedestal waffle in and out and begins to bounce when the washer spins. This can be overcome by purchasing a stiffener kit. Look at your pedestal and let me know if this may be the issue with yours. If so, I can provide you with a part number to order.

If you have further question, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Feb 12, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Front Load Washer


have you took the transporting bolt out the back of it yet

Feb 18, 2008 | Whirlpool GHW9100L Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Water


Make sure the drain line is not plugged. Check the sewer line too.

Jan 14, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Whirlpool LHW0050PQ Front Loading Washer VERY NOISY during spin cycle


remove the top access panel 3 screws in top rear.
now look around and push on the drum from top
it has suspension shocks and springs like your car they should resist any movements.
look/wiggle the concrete balance blocks , no cracks or loose.
inside the tub are the arm solid /not loose.
run it with the top open what do you see/hear and where
look under the rubber flap in front did anything get under the tub

Dec 29, 2007 | Whirlpool LHW0050PQ Front Load Washer

3 Answers

Shaking like crazy


ALERT. transit brackets still on machine ..REMOVE THEM;;

Nov 25, 2007 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

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