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I'm going to assume that your talking about the switch in your breaker/fuse box and not the power switch on the machine it self. Check the line that your machine is on to make sure there isn't too many things plugged up and being used at the same time on that same line causing it to overload the breaker. Many times, it is other things that are also on that line in your kitchen like the microwave, toaster, etc. that causes it to flip the breaker switch. If you are using two or more things at the same time on the same line with high amps on each unit, it will sometimes cause the breaker to flip off. Try limiting using just one thing at a time to see if that solves your problem. If it is the power switch it self on your machine, then there may be something wrong with your unit and may be defective.
First are they normal breakers or are they GFI breakers? If they are normal then odds are one you have a short on the output of the breaker or perhaps the wires on the output of the breaker are loose. You also might want to check the boxes behind all of the effected items (switches and outlet). There could be a loose connection behind them. If they are GFI breakers then you either have a bad breaker or a bad ground on the output of the breaker. GFI's sense bad grounds this is what protects you. I'm not sure if the idiot light breakers light only if there is power available to them or if they only light if there is power flowing through them. If it is the fore then I say you have a high power draw on the output, most likely a short if it is blowing the breaker. If the breaker is not blowing then you have a loose connection or bad connection. Get this fix quickly either way because it can cause a fire.
You'll have to get someone to trace the circuits to find the short. You can unplug the master switch in the driver's door and use a circuit breaker in place of the fuse or a fresh fuse. Toyota door switches have a history of problems. If you disconnect the master switch and the new fuse or circuit breaker does not blow, I would try another switch. You may also have a problem with the wiring harness between the door and the post. If the new fuse or breaker blows, you will need to disconnect the other motors and switches or look for a short in those circuits.
your power transformer for the magnetron could have a shorted primary power winding,the door safety interlock switch could be mis-adjusted,this normally blows the internal unit fuse,a shorted high voltage capacitor,or diode,a bare wire inside the unit,more than the microwave on that circuit or a weak circuit breaker in the house power panel
was cooking on the stove below the microwave and had the fan on. the nicrowave went out all together and will not come back on. it did not blow a fuse in the breaker box. is there a reset button or something to turn back on
You are decribing a typical Door Safety Switch problem. The Door Safety Switches has Failed.The Door Safety Switch is designed to shut down the Micro in the event the Micro is still cooking when the door is being opened. The first "Click" of the switch cuts off the "Cook". If it does not cut off the "Cook", the second "Click" blows the power. Otherwise it would "Cook" with the door open, and I need not to tell you how DANGEROUS that could be. It first Tripped the Circuit Breaker which supplies power to the Microwave. After Re-Setting the Breaker the same thing happened except this time the Micro is DEAD- not even a light working. Yes, there is a line FUSE inside the Micro. You however need to address the Door Switch SHORT before replacing the fuse. If not, it will just Blow The Fuse Again, and Again, until the Short is corrected.
Call around, ask How much to replace a Door Safety Switch.
Since power = voltage X current, 1.58kW / 120VAC = 13.166A
So this unit should be fine on a 15A breaker unless the breaker is bad, the wiring or a connection is loose somewhere between the breaker and the microwave, or the microwave's magnetron or high voltage transformer are failing and drawing extra current.
Microwaves should really be on the own separate breaker if at all possible. Plus, the more a breaker trips, the more work out it gets.
Have you measured the voltage at the outlet? If that's off, current and power will be affected. It should be about 110-125VAC.
A good power test for outlet and wiring integrity is a toaster, toaster oven, or hair dryer rated at about 1500 watts.
If it doesn't run and heat steadily, then there may be a problem with the house wiring or breaker.
If it passes this test, the problem is likely in the microwave.
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