Question about Whirlpool LGR5644J Gas Dryer

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Whirlpool Gas Dryer

The gas dryer tumbles but does not heat. With the gas off and the power disconnected, I read resistance on the fuse, high limit switches, coils, & igniter. I do not read resistance(0 Ohms) on the flame sensor. Could this be the problem. Plase advise. Thanks for your help.

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Yes, that is most likely the problem. Once the glow bar igniter glows so hot, the switch opens & drops power to the igniter.(The radiant sensor has continuity while cold & open when a flame is present.) At the same time, by opening it redirects power to the valve coils allowing them to open & gas flow to the burner assembly. The dying glow of the igniter fires the gas. However, if your igniter glows, the radiant sensor is good. In this case, you'd need to replace the gas valve solenoids.

Posted on Aug 01, 2007

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Whirpool dryer awz 865


If you had line voltage to ground you'd trip the circuit breaker, without a schematic cannot pinpoint it exactly but all dryer gas or electric have a high limit thermostat which opens if the exhaust is plugged up stream, remove the exhaust tube connected to dryer and see if it heats correctly if it does the exhaust leading out of the house is plugged also the operating thermostat you referred to has a set resistance reading at room temp this tells and changes based on heat this is what controls voltage to the heater would need a full model number to give more specifics.

Jan 15, 2014 | Dryers

Tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2


TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.

on Apr 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer has lost heat.


Hi
If the dryer is not drying the clothes then you would need to check for the following things-
Electric Dryer---
1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.
2. Check for the amp reading at 240 V, it should have reading of 24, 21 and 3 amp (approx.) for 2 lines and neutral respectively.
3. Heating element may have turned or the connection to the element might be loose. Sometimes a shorted circuit element will keep on blowing the fuse or circuit breaker.
4. Motor wiring shorting to ground.
Gas Dryer---
1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.
2. Check for the continuity of the heating element in your gas dryer using a multimeter. Replace the element if continuity is not there.
3. Inspect the thermal fuse if it is burnt out, it is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. Replace if necessary.
4. Check the igniter by first disconnecting it, and then place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance, if it is above 100 then replace the igniter.
5. Check the continuity on the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible.
Hope this helps...
Daniel

Dec 11, 2010 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

My gas dryer will not get hot


Hi

If the dryer is not drying the clothes then you would need to check for the following things-
1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.
2. Check for the continuity of the heating element in your gas dryer using a multimeter. Replace the element if continuity is not there.
3. Inspect the thermal fuse if it is burnt out, it is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. Replace if necessary.
4. Check the igniter by first disconnecting it, and then place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance, if it is above 100 then replace the igniter.
5. Check the continuity on the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible.
Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.

Daniel

Dec 11, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

No heat



Hi


If the dryer is not drying the clothes then you would need to check for the following things-

Electric Dryer---

1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.

2. Check for the amp reading at 240 V, it should have reading of 24, 21 and 3 amp (approx.) for 2 lines and neutral respectively.

3. Heating element may have turned or the connection to the element might be loose. Sometimes a shorted circuit element will keep on blowing the fuse or circuit breaker.

4. Motor wiring shorting to ground.


Gas Dryer---


1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.

2. Check for the continuity of the heating element in your gas dryer using a multimeter. Replace the element if continuity is not there.

3. Inspect the thermal fuse if it is burnt out, it is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. Replace if necessary.

4. Check the igniter by first disconnecting it, and then place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance, if it is above 100 then replace the igniter.

5. Check the continuity on the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible.

Hope this helps...

Daniel

Sep 24, 2010 | Maytag MDE2400A Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer spinning but not drying!


if it runs with the door open the door switch could be defective,otherwise check your heating element high limit/cycling thermostat switch,then the thermal fuse on the side of the vent housing.and also check the power input for 240 volts a.c. if its an electrically heated element,if inside the terminal strip any terminals burn or break off the element can't heat/if its a gas dryer,check the thermal fuse,the high limit thermostat,the radiant sensor on the burner tube or the gas boost and secondary coils on the gas inlet valve,they get weak or open and close off the gas supply

May 13, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Location fuses Whirpool duet dryer


The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing outlet to the left of the thermistor. For electric dryers, the thermal cut-off and high-limit thermostat are located on the heater housing. For gas dryers, the high-limit thermostat and the flame sensor are located on the burner.

Disconnect the dryer from the power outlet and turn-off the gas supply for gas dryers.

Remove the two screws at the bottom of the toe panel securing it to the cabinet. Pull the toe panel down and off the cabinet.

Check the continuity of the thermal fuse with an ohmmeter set to X1. The ohmmeter should read zero ohms. Replace both the thermal fuse (part #3392519) and the thermistor (part #8577274) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

Do the same with the thermal cut-off. Replace both the thermal cut-off (part #279973) and the high-limit thermostat (part #3391914) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.

The high-limit thermostat is located next to the heater terminal block and next to it is the thermal cut-off.

Slide the toe panel in place up and into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.

Note: Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the component before performing the continuity test.

Feb 22, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My dryer tumbles but throws cold air.


See if there is a high limit thermostat and if there is, check it with an ohm meter. There should be no resistance. If there is resistance, the high limit thermostat is bad and must be replaced.391cb07.jpgThis is a picture of the thermal fuse and high temperature thermostat for your model dryer, to give you an idea of what it looks like. Hope this helped.

Jul 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer no heat but runs


WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR DRYER?

small_8_19.jpg For a detailed Dryer illustration, click below.

redarrow.gif
Gas Whirlpool Style Version 1
redarrow.gif Gas Whirlpool Style Version 2
redarrow.gif Gas Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Gas GE Style
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 1
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 2
redarrow.gif Electric Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Electric GE Style
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

Gas dryers aren't very complicated. Here are some common symptoms you may experience with your dryer.

There's an error code on the digital display

It doesn't work at all
There's no heat
It won't tumble
Drying is too slow
It overheats
It seems to run forever
It's noisy
It won't start
The light doesn't work
My clothes smell bad!
My clothes are marked or torn
DON'T FORGET TO RATE:

May 15, 2008 | Whirlpool LGR7646E Dryer

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