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Is changing the drum bearings on an Indesit WDG1295 washer/dryer a DIY job? I have done wheel bearings on motor bikes and Minis in the past. Thanks

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Not really - please read...
Rear Tub Bearing Replacement



This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most FRONT LOADER models. This is a repair that would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and reassembly of components.

The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise. In some situations the replacement of the inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that support the basket.

SYMPTOMS: Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.

DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD: With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight up. If there is excessive play in the tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad. If the spinner basket scrapes against the outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells. In some cases, a brownish colored stain my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the spinner basket.

Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you plenty of space to work.






DISASSEMBLY:

1. Unplug washer and turn off water supply.
2. Disconnect washer inlet supply lines and remove drain hose from standpipe.
3. Using a shop vac, pull a vacuum on the drain hose to remove all residual water from the drain lines, tub and drain pump. If you do not own a shop vac, remove the lower panel under the door and locate the drain pump. If the drain pump has a clean out trap, lay out some old towels, and open the trap to allow water to drain. If the pump does not have a drain trap, disconnect one of the drain pump hoses.
4. Remove the lower panel under the door (if you haven’t done so in the previous step) and remove the washer top and back panels.
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the top of the wash tub and disconnect the hose on the side of the tub going to the pressure switch.
6. Remove the hose that leads from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump and remove the drain hose that leads to the standpipe.
7. Remove the door bellow (rubber door boot) from the door frame ONLY and push inside the tub. Leave the other end of the door boot attached to the tub shell. If this is a small front loader, the bellow is cemented to the washer door frame. Use a putty knife to slowly peel the rubber from the door facing. If this is a large HE or Duet model, the bellow is held in place by a small hoop spring. It is located in the seam of the bellow along the door frame at the six o’clock position. Pull the spring out and carefully stretch it apart to remove the hoop from the seam. With the hoop removed, the bellow can be pushed inside the wash tub. Remember to remove the bellow from the water inlet tube that leads from the dispenser.
8. Remove the washer support shocks from the wash tub. The large HE model and Duet models are removed by grasping the upper portion of the shock and turning counter-clockwise. The shock will snap loose and can be pushed aside. Leave the lower portion installed in the bottom of the washer. If this is a small front loader, the shocks are held in place by plastic pins. The pins have a locking tab that needs to be compressed while pushing the pin out of the hole. This is NOT any easy task and it will take some effort. HINT: If you use a long socket that fits snugly over the pointed end of the plastic pins, it will compress the locking tab and enable you to use a hammer to carefully tap them free. NOTE: Large HE models and Duets have 4 shocks, while the smaller models may only have 2.
9. Remove the Drive Motor belt by grasping it near the top and pulling towards you while rotating the large pulley. The belt should slip off.
10. Remove the Drive Motor and Motor Control Board. Carefully label all connections, so you know here the go when have to re-install them.
11. Remove the back casing brackets so the entire back of the washer is open.
12. Remove the rear counter weight from the wash tub to minimize some of the weight.
13. This next step may require two persons: With the tub still suspended by the upper support springs, slowly lay the washer all the way on its back while supporting the wash tub. NOTE: Place something under the washer to support the tub shaft as you lay the washer back (i.e., old blankets, cardboard boxes, etc.) Once the washer is lying down, remove the upper support springs and set the cabinet upright. The wash tub should be now free from the washer cabinet.
14. Set the wash tub assembly upright and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the tub shell halves. NOTE: An electric screw driver with socket attachment works wonders and will speed up this process. If the tub is held together with clips, use a screwdriver along the tub edge under each clip and pry up to remove.
15. NOTE: If you plan on reusing the door bellow, use care not to damage any of the rubber. Place some old towels down and lay the wash tub assembly with the front opening face down. Lift the rear shell off the inner wash basket shaft. You can now inspect the spider arm supports of the spin basket. If the supports are cracked or broken, or if the shaft is worn, you will need to replace the spinner basket.
16. Remove the spinner basket assembly and inspect the front tub shell. In most cases the front shell can be reused and will not require replacement. If the inside of the front shell is damaged, however, it will require replacement.




REASSEMBLY:


1. Reassembling the tub shell parts and inner spin basket is self-explanatory. Just make sure you tighten all screws evenly in a crossing pattern as you tighten the tub shells. If the tub is held together with clips, they can be tapped back into place with a hammer. Use the same crossing pattern to ensure the shells are tightened evenly.
2. Lay the assembled tub shell with the opening face up. Make sure you support the spin basket shaft.
3. Lay the washer casing down over top the washer tub shell.
4. Insert the upper shell support springs into the wash tub and support spring brackets.
5. Raise the washer casing to the upright position, making sure the tub does not swing forward into the washer front. Re-install the rear counter-weight and washer back brackets.
6. Re-install the washer support shocks.
7. Re-install the drain line hose.
8. Re-install the Motor Control Unit and Drive Motor.
9. Re-install the Drive Belt pulley and belt. The belt is installed by placing it into the Drive Motor shaft, first. Make sure there is a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the drive shaft. With your left hand hold the belt on the drive pulley and guide it around as you turn the pulley with your right hand in a clockwise direction. This can take some effort.
10. Re-install the hoses that lead from the bottom of the wash tub to the drain pump, and pressure switch.
11. Re-insert the water inlet tube into the rubber door bellow, ensuring the rubber is seated past the flange on the tube.
12. Pull the door bellow through the door frame opening and reseat it. If this is a small model front loader the door bellow will have to be cemented back in place with appliance door gasket adhesive. If this is a larger model front loader that has a hoop spring to hold the bellow in place, insert as follows:


- Place the hoop into the groove of the door bellow along the facing of the door frame with the spring in the 6 o’clock position.
- With both hands gradually work your way around to the 4 and 8 o’clock positions and stretch the spring apart.
- Push the spring and hoop into the groove.

NOTE: It may require a second person to get the door bellow back in place.

1. Re-install the rubber dispenser hose to the top of the wash tub.
2. Re-install back panel and top panel and hook washer back up to water source. Make sure the drain hose is placed back in the standpipe.
3. Leave the bottom washer panel off and plug unit back in. Test operate and check for leaks. If no leaks are present, re-install bottom panel.


Some other parts that may have to be considered when performing a rear tub shell replacement:
- Rubber Door Bellow
- Spinner Basket (if arm supports are damaged)
- Front Tub Shell (if signs of internal damage)
- Drive Pulley (can sometimes become damaged trying to remove old one)
- Drive Belt (check belt during parts removal for wear)
- Wash Tub Support Shocks (The shocks can sometimes break when trying to remove)

NOTE: 1. If you replace the front tub shell you will need to remove the door bellow and front counter-weights and install them on the new shell. 2. If you replace the spinner basket, some do not come with the wash tub fins. Make sure you remove and re-install the old ones in the new tub if required.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Bosch WTA 3510 uc/13 FD 8203 compact dryer is very loud. Motor is okay. Just changed the main pully. Belts are okay. Still is a loud rumble when operating. Any ideas? Rear bearing appears to be ok


DRYER MAKES NOISES.



A loose or worn BELT can make funny noises

Or the idler pulley that puts tension on the dryer drum drive belt could be worn out. If the pulley is bad we recommend also replacing the belt.



The glides on drum worn and making metal to metal contact.

The drum slides or glides support the front of the drum. As the drum rotates over the years, the glides wear out and then the dryer makes noise. Replace all of the glides as a set if they are worn out.



CHECK FOR LOOSE BELLOES inside the drum



Sometimes an item can get stuck inbetween the drum and the housing and scrape and grind making funny noises, things like coins, bra wire, nails, hair pins, etc sometimes u can just remove the cabinet and observe by turning the drum by hand or looking for scratch or scrape marks on housing.



The blower:



Clumps of lint, socks, and other small articles of clothing can get past the lint filter and into the blower wheel. If the dryer makes noise, and the noise seems to be at a very fast pace, there might be something caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve might be worn out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If this happens, replace the blower wheel.



The bearings:

The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. If the dryer makes noise this bearing might be worn out. Replace the bearing if it is worn out. Do not lubricate the bearing, the lubrication will attract lint and dirt and accelerate the wearing process.

The bearings TEST by moving drum by hand u may be able to feel loose or rough movement. And listen to sounds when turning it.



The drum rollers or castors:



It is very common for dryer drum rollers to wear out. If the dryer makes noise, particularly a loud rumbling noise, one or more of the rollers may be worn out. After removing the drum from the dryer, inspect the rollers.

Check for cracks, dryness, or damage and not engaging drum properly. Sometimes u can use high density LITHIUM BASE gear grease to re oil/grease them.

GOD IS GOOD !!!!

Oct 09, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

How difficult is it to change drum bearing on my indesit wg1130tg washing matchine


Personally, my view is that this is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.


To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a quite a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.


I'm not saying that you couldn't do it if you had the will and the practical temprement, but I would certainly approach the idea of starting the job with a degree of scepticism.

Jul 19, 2011 | Indesit Washing Machines

1 Answer

We have an Indesit washer dryer WDG1295. When switching on, it fills with water, hums away as though it is working (including draining) but the drum doesn't turn. The belt looks fine, and if you move the...


Hi,

Immediate thought was the belt but you already checked that. Reading your message, you seem to be indicating the washer goes through the wash cycle and does everything except turn the drum, i.e. it fills and drains and the timer control knob advances as you would expect. This machine has an electro-mechanical timer rather than electronic, so if it advances through the program correctly, I would exclude this from my initial checks, but I'd still come back to it later.

Washing machines aren't that complicated, so if all of the above is true, the obvious assumption would be the drive motor. You've obviously opened up the machine to check the belt, so have you tested the motor with an ohm / multi-meter?

Please confirm the correct operation of the timer and whether you have tested the motor and I will try to assist you further. I check messages regularly, so if you post back here I should reply fairly quickly. Make sure you reply from within this page - don't post a new help request!

Regards,
BElectric

Nov 27, 2010 | Indesit Washing Machines

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SMEG WDI 12 Washer/dryer Unable to fit new belt


Sadly, the answer to your question isno, it's not normal. In fact as soon as I saw the first sentence of your problem, I guessed the rest. The wheel should have no play at all and the drum and wheel move together on a sprung mechanism. The reason that the wheel is loose is because the bearings in the drum (That sit directly behind the centre of the wheel) are worn out. To be sure that this is the problem, open the front of the machine and pinch with your thumb on the outer (static) cylinder of the drum and your forefinger on the drum that spins. There should be no play here whatsoever. I suspect that you will see the best part of a quarter of an inch of play and pinching as I describe will make a nasty little clunk at the same time. The other classic sign (though not always there) is that there is a tiny amount of water leakage from the bearing at the centre spindle of the wheel. The reason the belt comes off is because the wheel is unstable on the worn out bearing.

Some machines can have their bearings replaced by a competent DIY-er, but many require a specila tool to extract the damaged bearing and press the new one into the housing. I imagine that a call to your local supplier will reveal which of these actions is possible for your machine, but either way, this is going to be a real pain. It's a drum out job and that's not fun if you have never done it before (I do occasionally, and I still don't have any fun!).

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

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2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer drum making noise




window.google_render_ad();There are many places & parts that could be causing your Whirlpool dryer to be noisy. To find out what is causing the noises, you need to find out where are the noises coming from.
Start the dryer and let it run for a while and listen to try to pinpoint where in the dryer the noises is coming from. Once you have an idea of the area, you will need to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet and take the dryer apart.
Below you will find the parts that you need to check when your dryer is noisy.
The drum baffles:

The drum baffles are use to tumble the clothes inside of the drum, in other words, the baffles job is to separate the pieces of laundry as the drum turns.
When the dryer is getting older and if you use the dryer a lot, the drum baffles holding screws will become loose. Loose drum baffles will cause noises. All you need to do, is to open the top panel and tighten the drum baffles holding screws.
The drum support rollers:

These dryers uses four drum support rollers, tow on the front and two on the rear. The job of the drum support rollers is to keep the drum tumbling smooth.
When the grease on one of the rollers dry out, the roller start to make squeaking noises and the roller bearing will start to wear out until the bearing on the roller is gone. When the bearing on the roller is gone, the noise will change from squeaking to a clanking noise.
The blower wheel:

The blower wheel is use to circulate the air inside of the dryer drum. The most common Whirlpool blower noises are cause by something falling inside of the blower housing and hitting the blower when the motor runs.
The Idler pulley:

The Idler pulley is use to apply the necessary tension on the belt. There are two types of idler pulleys, the pulley with the wheel and the pulley with the teflon slide. A bad idler pulley could cause a Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
The drive motor:

Worn out bearings on the motor will cause the motor to run kind of noisy. When the motor starts making noises, the solution to this problem is to replace the motor.
The belt:

The belt on most dryers is only about1/4 inch wide. These belts work very hard making the drum tumble. When the belt stretch just 1/2 inch more that it supposed to, the belt will start slipping and that could cause your Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
As you could see, there are a lot of parts that could become noisy in your dryer. When your dryer starts making noises, make sure to check it out before it gets worse.

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1 Answer

Bearing noise on Indesit WDG1295


you will have to open the machine lid to see if its a plastic drum or metal.
the metal drum is easier as it has a 'spider asssembly'. remove this after taking off the pulley by taking out the bolts that hold it and bang it off being carefull of the heater element. remove the bearings and seal and refit in reverse order you took it off.
i would not advise replacing plastic drum bearings as they are a pain, removal of the rear of a plastic drum easy but not putting it back !

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1 Answer

The drum has started making a noise an appears to be free-er than usual


Remove top cover and look at outer drum, if it is plastic, then it is a complete stripdown of m/c, not recommended unless you really know what you are doing.
If it is a metal outer drum, then it can be done from rear of washer, without too much hassle.
If you are in the u/k, and you need spares, then go to,
www.seviceforce.co.uk
Plz rate my solution.
Tghanks.

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depends on the model that you have some indesit machines you only have to undo the spider and others can be a bit of a pain because you have got too split the drum would recomend an engineer regards jason

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