I had same problem today. It was just a tube disconnected from the water level sensor. Raise the top of the washer and look on the left side of the tub. There should be a plastic tube running from the water level sensor to the control panel. Make sure it is connected. If not simple reconnect the tube and you should be good to go.
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We've now had this happen three times and the exact same thing caused it all three times.
If the water level selector knob hasn't "clicked" into one of the given load levels on the control panel(i.e. the knob is in between levels) it will continue to fill until you discover water everywhere and turn the knob until it "clicks" into a level.
As far as I know, it has nothing to do with loose hoses or bad switches, it's bad design. There seems to be no safety mechanism to turn off the water if you over- or under-shoot the desired water level.
SOME OF THESE MACHINES HAVE TWO PRESSURE SWITCHES IN THEM, ONE FOR THE MAIN WASH WATER LEVEL AND ONE FOR THE RINSE WATER LEVEL. CHECK FOR A PLUGGED AIR PRESSURE HOSE FIRST AND THEN CHECK THE PRESSURE SWITCHES.
If the water continues to flow even when the washer timer and the power to the washer are off then you are right and the water inlet valve has to be replaced. If it does it only when the washer is on then it could be different problems.
In that case the first thing you have to check is the water level switch. This is the device which controls the water level. Remove the power first.Open the control panel and you will see the switch on the left side. There is the clear plastic hose connected to the switch. Make sure the hose is not loose. This is one of the most common cause of overflow. If it got loose, drain out all water from the washer before you reconnect the hose. If this is not the issue then you have to check the continuity across the water level switch therminals. When there is no water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 12 (gray and orange wires). Whet the tub has filled up with water you should measure the continuity across therminals 11 and 14 (gray and light blue wires). If the continuity is wrong replace the water level switch. If you are going to do it, make sure there is no water in the tub before you will remove the clear plastic hose from the old switch.
fault f1 is slow or no cold fill. this fault code with overfill points to:
air chamber blocked with sludge
hose from air chamber to pressure stat blocked or split
pressure stat faulty
of these the first is the most likely