Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

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Cabinet removal I am trying to take the cabinet off so that I can get to the motor control board. The washer recently shorted out and I couldn't get the door open. I finally figured out how to get the door open. Next step is to get the cabinet off. I was told the motor control board was bad or it might be the display control board. I could also use some help on testing the boards. I have a meter but not sure what I am looking for.

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  • Lisa Turner Aug 02, 2007

    Thanks jsrock516. That is exactly what I needed to know. The problem is that my washer is 7 years old and they no longer make the motor control board for this model. What Maytag did was change the board which is no longer compatible with my motor. So now you must buy a converter kit which comes with a new board and a new motor. This part can range from 185 to 260 dollars. You can avoid this price if the motor goes out within 10 yrs and just pay for the labor.



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Follow these steps: 1. Open dispenser on top and remove screws. 2. Remove the door and screws opposite the door around the door opening. Front panel should come off. I'm trying to remember if the motor control board is in the cabinet, or under the console. Some washing machines now have the control board under the console. Just in case you open up the front casing and don't find what you're looking for, you can also remove the screws from the back of the console and it should lift up. Let me know if this helps you.

Posted on Aug 01, 2007


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Started filling, made a loud noise, stopped filling immediately, door wouldn't open. I tried everything to get it to open. Running the spin cycle finally got the door open at the end of the cycle, though...

The washer drain the water if you put on spin. all electronically controlled washer won't unlock the door and or spin if there's water inside the water has to be drained out first.If the basket didn't move(no motor movement) and it finished the cycle, POSSIBLE problem is the motor control board. Motor Control Board 00436461

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My machine wach but do not spin a the end.

Note: This solution is intended only for asker qualityisc as per Live Chat session discussion. Error code reads E47 which means the Control board thinks the PTC circuit (wax motor) is open.

Unplug the machine then remove the spring-loaded wire loop that holds in place the front of the bellows over the lip of the door opening in the front panel.

Using needle nose pliers, start where the spring and wire are connected at the bottom of the bellows and pull the wire out of the groove of the bellows then pull the bellows off of the lip of the front panel.

Remove the screws securing the door lock and switch assembly to the front panel. Once the screws are removed, lift the door lock and switch assembly then pull it away from the front panel.

Take the door lock and switch assembly out of the machine and disconnect the electrical connections.


Measure the resistance of the wax motor. The normal resistance is around 1500 ohms. Shorted or open circuit wax motor means the door lock and switch assembly needs to be replaced.

replace the door lock and switch assembly (part #131763202) if the wax motor reads shorted or open to address the issue. But if the wax motor resistance is normal, check the continuity of the door lock and switch assembly wire harness, particularly the wax motor wire harness. Start with the continuity of the red/black wire of the wax motor harness to each of the red/black wires of the door lock and switch assembly harness. They should all have continuity; otherwise, replace the harness.

Remove the top panel to access the control board if further continuity test is necessary or if the red/black wire of the wax motor harness has continuity with the all other red/black wires of the door lock and switch assembly harness.

Remove the screws attaching the top panel to the rear of the cabinet then lift the panel off. The console can be removed from the cabinet to completely access the control board connections, particularly the door lock and switch assembly harness connections. Check the continuity of the red/black wires at the door lock and switch assembly to the red/black wire of the harness connected to connector J2 on the control board.

The problem is in the control board if the wax motor is good and the door lock and switch assembly wire harness has all the necessary continuity. The only viable solution, should that be the case, is the replacement of the control board.

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MAH5500BWW "LR" Motor Control Board Failure

By the time you have finished mucking about it will likely cost you much more than it would to have a Techo come out to give you a quote for a few dollars to see if it is all worth it as regards your budget!

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Does not agitate or spin. model number WPRE6100G0WT Pump works fine. Lid switch is okay and power to motor. Fuse on nuetral is also good. Suspect control circuit board or inverter at the motor. Can...

Is motor running? Remove cabinet and jump the lid switch with a small piece of wire. Put washer into cycle and run. Does the motor work? No- I would guess you have a bum circuit board or a short before the motor. If this is a direct drive, you probably have a slipping clutch, which is an easy fix. Let us know.

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DU on display took me a while to find this information and make some sense of it. The "50" indicates a motor stall. That means the RPS sensor (which is located near the main drive motor ) does not sense any movement of the main drive motor under the wash tub. This could be related to your next error code which is the "DU". This is an "Door Unlock" error. You will need to perform the following checks if washer fails to lock (or unlock).

1. Perform Manual: Door Switch and Manual: Door Lid Lock tests.
2. Remove the console to access the machine/motor control assembly. This is accomplished by loosening the three screws in the back of the console. With the screws loosened, the panel lifts from the back first. Use care when handling as there is a small connector that connects to the operator interface board.
3. Locate the machine.motor control board on the right hand side (as viewed from the front of the washer). Visually check that the P12 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor
control. (There are three connectors on the right hand side of the control board. They are labeled as follows: BROWN (P10), BLUE (P11), and ORANGE (P12)
If visual check passes, go to step 4. If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1.
4. Check the lid lock motor winding and switches by removing P12 from the machine/
motor control and checking the resistance values shown in the Lid Lock resistance table below:

Motor Winding - Check P12-2 to P12-3 - 26 ohms (Lock Switch locked and unlocked).
Lock Switch Home - Check P12-1 to P12-4 - 0 ohms (Unlocked) Open Circuit (Locked).
Lock Switch Lock - Check P12-1 to P12-7 - Open Circuit (Unlocked) 0 ohms (Locked).
Lock Switch Lid - Check P12-1 to P12-5 - Lid Open (Open Circuit) Lid Closed (0 ohms).
If resistance values are good, proceed to step 5. If the switch measurements ae incorrect for unlocked (or locked) conditions, a problem exists in the door lid lock. Replace the door lid lock.
5. If the Manual: Door Switch or Manual: Door Lid Lock in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug washer or disconnect power. Replace machine/motor control assembly.

There should be a tech sheet inside your washer that you can also get this information from. I have referenced these steps from the tech sheet. To access, you can either lift the washer from the front and reach the inside the cabinet from under the washer, or lift the top panel by pushing in on the release tabs. This is accomplished by inserting a putty knife along the seam where the top meets the front about two inched in from each side. Push in while lifting to release the tabs. CAUTION: Make sure you hold on to the washer lid to prevent it from swinging open as you lift the top.

The tech sheet is located on the inside of the front panel of the washer between the wash tub and cabinet interior. I mention this as there are helpful drawings and more detailed explanations to assist you. This can help avoid confusion from me explaining these steps to you. Since you mentioned you had just recently replaced the lid lock, you may double check your work to make sure you have everything reconnected correctly. Barring you purchased a bad part...if the lid lock proves to be good, you may have a defective control board.

I do hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require further assistance.

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Washing Machine starts, squirts water, then stops.

ALSO OTHER ERRORS Error code - Fault condition
E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem. 
E44 Control board problem. 
E45 Control board problem. 
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 To much soap.

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Could be just about anything. It's all designed to prevent it from spinning if there is a problem. If the motor is still turning, but never gets up to spin speed, check the out of balance circuit. There are two cabinet strike switches and an inertial unbalance switch. Or check the door latch assembly, it's possible for the door to lock enough to turn the 'door lock' light on, but not move far enough to actuate the 'spin enable' switch. Maytag has upgraded the motor/ motor control board for the older Neptunes. If the motor is not running at all, check that the main control board is sending power to the motor control board. If it is you need the motor/ motor control kit (just one part #) If the main board is not sending power to the motor control board, you need a main control board, but you still need to test the motor control board. Take a test cord and put 120 volts to the motor control board, the motor should start turning at 50 rpm (normal agitate speed) if it doesn't you would need the motor/ motor control kit as well.

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