My Ge oven igniter was replaced and it worked fine for 2 months and then the oven stopped working. The technician came back and found that the insulation of the new igniter was crumbling, but the igniter part itself was fine. He checked the voltage and the possiblity of shorts but none were found. We again replaced the igniter and hopefully it will work fine, but what could cause the insulation of the wiring of the igniter to crumble with no apparant shorting or evidence of high voltage damage?
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Yes, it should work fine to swap them. (fortunately the bake and broil igniters are often the same part number on GE gas ranges, as as opposed to many other brands) Of course now you broil will not work, but you should be able to get your oven going again.
hi thanks for the question just because the igniter lights up doesn't mean its good, the gas will not light, if igniterisn,t hot enough. and a very common problem is that the igniter does come on, but not hot enough to ignite the gas . replace the igniter thanks the appliance doc
It probably needs an oven igniter. Remove oven racks. Remove oven floor. Usually 2 screws towards back. Remove flame spreader if it has one. You can see long tube with holes in sides and igniter with 2 wires from rear. Now try oven. See if igniter glows. If it does but doesn't light within 1 minute, replace igniter. If it doesn't glow, you need to check for power to igniter. Should be about 100 volts. If not may need ERC, "Electronic Range Control".
I had same problem last week. My GE JVM1650 Spacemaker stopped after a few seconds of heating. Owned 16 months, manufactured Jan 2005. It was the magnetron, which was replaced yesterday. The magnetron has a 10-year warranty, but I had to pay $161.00 for labor by a GE technician. The call-out fee was waived at my request. I don't know what that amount would have been, but I can't believe the $161.00 for what was about 1/2 hour labor once diagnosed. Good Luck!