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Re: Dryer runs, but does not heat
Do you have a volt meter ,and the wiring diagram for your dryer.if so we can fix this by email.your going to disconnect one side of the element[there are two wires that end up feeding the element electricity,each side is a curcit].and isolate that side with tape,but so you can still get a volt meter probe on it.now if you set your meter to AC volts and scrap one of the probes into ground[the body of the dryer,anywhere]so it gets past the paint into metal.now take the other probe with the dryer on in heat mode and started.and now touch the wire you have disconnected and then the other side that's still connected to the element.the side that did not have 110 volts is the side of the circuit that has something not working.so using your wiring diagram,or if you can see visually you still keep one probe to ground[any where] and go back to the next part,until you find where the voltage has stoped.and replace that part.almost all parts are showned closed on the diagram unless other wise shown.so another way to check a part to see if it is closed[meaning,complete or electricity can pass thru it]is to set your volt meter to ohms setting.in this setting if you put the two probes together the meter will go to zero[digital meter] and when you take them apart they will show 1 or the needle will go all the way back,if non digital.the reading you get when you put the probes together is the reading you would get from a part if it is good,[its called continuity]but one side of the wires must be disconnected so not get false readings.the thermostats and fuses will have countinuity[also your new element is a good example of something that has contunity[remember one wire must be disconnected.i hope this helps ill be there if you need advise God bless ,tom
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Hello Lidia, thank you for your inquiry!
Based off the information you have provided your Frigidaire dryer is not heating and displaying error codes "FDL" and "RL". I am showing that the codes you have provided are not valid error codes. I would recommend performing a reset on your dryer and you can do that by disconnecting power from it for at least ten minutes. I see that you have already replaced the igniter; however, if you continue to have issues with the error codes I would suggest having a professional technician out. This will help you avoid any further unnecessary part purchases. Hopefully this information is helpful to some degree. -Matt
I would suggest replacing the heating element these are usually always the culprit and pretty much anybody can replace them.
Check here for parts for you model number, they also have good diagrams.
Hope this helps, thanks.
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
Undoubtedly since you have replaced the heating element the problem is actually the thermal sensor overheat unit has burnedout. It is a very small unit mounted inside on the back of the dryer someplace and has two wires clipped to it. If you have a test meter you can put it on the ohms scale and connect the ohmmeter leads across the terminals after you remove at least 1 wire from the sensor. It should read very low ohms...maybe less than 4 ohms. If it has a high reading...maybe 10K or 10,000 ohms then it is burned out and will need to be replaced....it is something like a fuse but opens up from temperature instead of current. Replacing the unit will make the dryer run....unless...you could have a bad door switch...but I doubt it. Probably your dryer is or was clogged up with lint and the vent pipe to the outside was also clogged up allowing the dryer to overheat and burning up the unit I mention above. Be sure to clean good everything before putting it back together. I recommend using a leaf blower inside the dryer and also blowing and brushing out the vent pipe to the outside...may prevent your house from burning down.
So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!
Remove power from the unit. You want to use a multi-meter set on an ohms scale. Remove the wires from each terminal at the heating element. Check resistance to ground at the heater by putting one meter lead to the case of the heater, and the other meter lead to each terminal at the heater. It sounds as though your element has gone bad and is shorted to the case. The resistance should be infinite. If you read any resistance from the element to the case, replace the heating element. The no heat setting should be exactly that....no heat.
chech your exhaust hose from rear of dryer ,,if can disconnect and run and see how long it heats up for ,if you reconnect hose to back of dryer and shuts off quickly pretty obvious ,, bad air flow , clean out exhaust