Question about Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Electric Dryer
For what its worth, I found out what was wrong with the Kenmore Elite 110-62882101. The circuit board works a small relay that works the heating element. We replaced the thermister, then the circuit board - to no avail! Finally, we replaced the relay, and the problem ended. Seems that the relay didn't always make up even though it clicked. It's a Potter Brumfield (and old line company) but made in China (what isn't?). The guy is the local parts store says the motor relay is the same type (they look alike) and that these caused trouble in the past. The heat circuit didn't use relays in the past (when there were thermostats), but they do now (that temperature is controlled by thermisters and circuit boards). So, the lowly, seemingly simple and reliable heat relay can be the problem - if your dryer has one. --- Powerguy
Posted on Mar 04, 2008
I have a similar problem with my old DE406 Maytag. It use to require a couple hours of rest before it would apply heat but once it did start up (as long as the door was not opened to "check the clothes") it would continue running/heating/drying the appropriate duration.
The air flow exhaust is free and clear and the air flows quite well. (My dryer does not exhibit the audible click-on, click-off symptom as mentioned in the original posted question however.) So I am relatively "certain" that it does not have to do with air flow.
Should I presume that the problem is with the one of the two thermostats?
Finally, the two different thermostats for this model are apparently 3-3035 and 3-5865. Which thermostat is the Low Temp and which is the High Temp? Which one do you think is more likely the cause of the problem?
Posted on Feb 28, 2008
Check the exterior air duct; the one leading outside.
This can get clogged and also block the air flow
Posted on Nov 07, 2007
The problem is almost certainly caused by a lack of air flow, clean ducting and check any external vent is clear. Regards Advisor
Posted on Aug 30, 2007
Tango, your dryer is most likely overheating inside the cabinet. This is caused by poor air flow and will cause the dryer to "short cycle" the heating element. 1.)Make sure the dryer is at least 8" away from the wall. This will ensure the duct work from the dryer to the wall is not "choked" off and preventing air flow. Visually verify the flex duct behind the dryer. Make sure that any bends in it are smooth "S" shapes and no 90 degree turns. 2.)If you've never had this done, you should... hire a pro to come out and clean the internal dryer duct work, the ductwork inside the walls leading outside. They will, over time, collect lint in there and eventually begin choking off the air flow. Kinda like a clogged artery and cholesterol. 3.) You may have a failed blower inside the dryer. I doubt this because a failed blower makes an awfully loud noise to let you know it's bad. You didn't mention noise so this is a long shot.
Posted on Aug 01, 2007
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