GE PROFILE FREEZER FAN STAYS OFF TOO LONG..ITEMS DEFROSTING
I BELIEVE THE FAN IS SUPPOSED TO STOP RUNNING DURING THE AUTOMATIC DEFROST CYCLE. IT IS STAYING OFF TOO LONG AND THE ITEMS, INCLUDING THE ICE CUBES IN THAT AREA ARE NOT STAYING FROZEN. HOW OFTEN IS THE FAN SUPPOSED TO STOP RUNNING IN THE DEFROST CYCLE?
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Re: GE PROFILE FREEZER FAN STAYS OFF TOO LONG..ITEMS...
The fan stops during the whole defrost cycle, there is a bi metal control that determines the length of time the heater stays on. This could be the problem, if the heater stays on for the time that is allowed by the defrost timer it will get too warm in the freezer. the bi metal is located on the evaporator.
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you may have a fault you may not. if the fridge is ok then the freezer is going through an automatic cycle. If the freezer is not working then the fridge will soon follow. likely faults causing this are; thermistors; worn out compressor motor; degassed compressor/receiver (can become hot and sluggish if lost gas/lubricant mix; dirt around the fan maybe causing it to be sluggish too. make sure you unplug it before touching anything!
Without your model number this is quite generic but should help you troubleshoot.
- Feel the face of the cabinet where the doors close. It should be warm but not HOT to the touch. If you note that the cabinet is hot in the door gasket area open the back of the unit and clean out the condenser coils. Make sure the condenser fan is running. The fan should be running any time the compressor is running.
- Look in the very back of the freezer compartment for signs of frost or ice build up. If you note this condition it is a result of the automatic defrost cycle / componenets not working. The components of the defrost cycle are the defrost control, (main board on some GE units), the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat or thermistor depending upon model. One of these components or wiring has failed.
- Can you hear the compressor running?
NO: The possible causes are:
The PTC / KilXon Thermal overload mounted on the side of the compressor.
The Run capacitor
Main control board
Defrost cycle not complete (caused by a bad thermostat or thermistor) What will happen is the unit would go into defrost and never restart. Additionally the defrost heater can remain on.
Temperature control malfunction
The fan in the freezer compartment is supposed to be on any time the compressor is running.
If the compressor is running and the evaporator fan is not running you need to find out why. It can be stopped from ice build up locking the fan blades in place, a bad motor or a wiring problem to the fan.
Lastly... if all the coils are clear, the fans and compressor are running.. the unit can be low on coolant. Low coolant problems are always a result of a tubing. fitting or compressor leak. Most compressor leaks are found right at the PTC / Overload connection area. A leak is easily identified by an oil residue surround the area of a leak. I use a kleenex or paper towel to GRASP but not wipe suspected areas and look for oil on the tissues. If you find oil... you found your leak.
I would sugest here that the freezer coil has frozen over blocking the air flow to the freezer.
The refrigerator section is still probably ok because the could air will drop down the air duct keeping this section clear.
Try manually defrosting the freezer and see if that makes a difference.
If it does you will need a technician to sort out the automatic defrost cycle for you
Sounds like either the freezer fan is not running, or it has a defrost problem. Check the fan first. If it is running, look for a layer of heavy frost on the back wall of the freezer. (assuming this is a self-defrosting model)
Need to check and see if the element is heating up when it goes into defrost. If the thermostat is bad it will not go into defrost. I purchased a new heating element for my GE and it came with the element and thermostat together. Also make sure the fan is running in the freezer this moves the heat through the coil as well as the cold temp when in freeze mode.
Most units have the cooling coils in the freezer section, then some vents and a fan circulates cold air into the refrigerator section.
If the vents are blocked by food items or ice, then the fridge will be too warm. Also, if the air circulation fan has failed, then cold air from the freezer will not get to the refrigerator.
On a self-defrosting refrigerator, this can be a sign that the defrost timer, defrost heater, or related part has failed. If the cooling coils are packed with ice, then airflow to the refrigerator does not occur.
Typically there is a electromechanical timer that you can see if you take off the lower front panel...this timer switch can be set so the defrost cycle happens when you want (like late at night).
You can also manually turn the switch to start the defrost cycle. Normally you hear the sound of water running and the scorch-hiss sound of an electric heater element touching water/ice when the defrost is taking place. The refrigerator compressor and cooling fan will typically be off during defrost as well.
This water is accumulated during the automatic defrost cycle, which occurs every 24-hours. A fan is supposed to pull air over it to evaporate it.
Clean all the dust and lint accumulation from under the unit, remove the condensation collection pan and clean it, and make sure the bottom fan is running.
I can't emphasize strongly enough how much of an enemy the accumulation of dirt and dust under a refrigerator can be its worst enemy. It can make the refrigerator exhibit symptoms of much more serious problems. Sometimes a good cleaning can have it operating like new with no real 'repairs' whatsoever.
clean the condenser coils at the back and make sure the condenser fan by compressor is running if is not running you mightg need to call a tech to trouble shoot it or if you want repl both the motor and main board like i said you might need a tech to trouble shoot it
The timer that controls the defrost cycle/function, may have failed and there may be no defrosting occurring. If icing of the coils due to the missing defrost cycle, there may not be enugh circulation left to keep the thermostat happy.
Try defrosting it manually (I know, it's a pain - aren't we spoiled?) and see if the compressor then cycles for a few days before it starts running continuously again.
And for Dr. Fred, the above suggestion about trying manually defrosting applies to your problem too.
The exposure to overnight moisture (ice accumulation) may have interfered with the automatic cycle.
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
bad defrost timer
bad defrost heater (in freezer)
bad thermo switch in freezer
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice
melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if
is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above