Question about Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Heat pump discharge over temperature

System locks out and indicates that the temperatue of the discharge line from the compressor is at to high a temperature. What could be causing this problem?

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  • rt89 Feb 04, 2009



    filter etc; is clean no AIR FLOW restriction. Do you think over charging the system could cause over heating of the compressor discharge?

  • Perry Putnam
    Perry Putnam May 11, 2010

    How does your filter look? Low airflow across the indoor coil in heat mode could raise the discharge pressure and temp. Let me know.

  • Anonymous Mar 19, 2014

    its alarms high discharge temperature what is the posible cause and what is the solution sir? thanks

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  • Master
  • 700 Answers

Have you changed out the filter on the inside unit lately? remember that is the condenser in the heating mode.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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1 Answer

How to fix Fujitsu a1 error code for 15rls2 heat pump.


Try cutting power to the indoor and outdoor units for a couple of minutes. Restore power and see if the error returns. The A1 error for this line of units indicates high compressor discharge temperature, which translates to overheating outdoor unit.

If this error code remains after a hard power reset, it's time to pick up the phone. Either you have a refrigerant leak which has resulted in a loss of freon, or a blockage in the refrigerant plumbing that is backing up pressure in the system. Both conditions will require a major repair by an authorized service tech to get your heat pump up and running again. 25361378-awph1b3yhxdrnyqdcrsrelkr-4-0.jpg

Please mark my answer as helpful.

Jan 09, 2015 | Fujitsu 15RLS2 Halcyon Wall Heat Pump Air...

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Frigidaire Affinity Common Error Codes. (E4A, E9E, E56, E46 and more)


Hi.

This error codes apply to Frigidaire Affinity washers and dryers:

E11 - Fill time too long.

E13 - Water leak in tub, or air leak in air bell.

E14 - Reed switch.

E21 - Water not pumping out fast enough.

E23 - Drain pump relay on control board failed.

E24 - Drain pump relay on control board failed.

E31 - Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.

E35 - Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.

E41 - Control board indicates door switch is open.

E42 - Door remains locked after cycle is completed.

E43 - Control board problem

E44 - Control board problem.

E45 - Control board problem.

E46 - Control board problem.

E47 - Control board is sensing the door PTC circuit is open during spin.

E48 - Control board is sensing the door PTC circuit is closed.

E4A - Program Timeout Fault.

E52 - Bad signal from tacho generator.

E55 - Motor overheating.

E56 - High motor current.

E57 - High current on inverter.

E58 - High current on motor phase.

E59 - No tacho signal for 3 seconds.

E5A - High temperature on heat sink.

E5B - High temperature on heat sink.

E5C - High temperature on heat sink.

E5D - Communication problem.

E5E - Communication problem.

E5F - Communication problem.

E67 - Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.

E75 - Water temperature sensor circuit (digital readout models only).

E76 - NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits

E95 - Communication error.

E9E -Voltage error.

EB1 - Incoming power frequency out of limits.

EB2 - incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.

EB3 - Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.

EF1 - Clogged drain pump.

EF2 - Too much soap.

on Apr 09, 2010 | Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000ES Front Load...

1 Answer

Loc error code Frigidaire frontloader


From the frigidaire site.

Error code - Fault condition

E11 Fill time too long.
E13 Water leak in tub or air leak in air bell.
E14 Reed switch.
E21 Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 Better models. Pressure sensor not communicating with control board.
E35 Better models. Pressure sensor indicates water overfill.
E41 Control board thinks the door switch is open.
E42 Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 Control board problem.
E44 Control board problem.
E45 Control board problem.
E46 Control board problem.
E47 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin.
E48 Board thinks the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 Motor overheating.
E56 High motor current.
E57 High current on inverter.
E58 High current on motor phase.
E59 No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A High temperature on heat sink.
E5B High temperature on heat sink.
E5C High temperature on heat sink.
E5D Communication problem.
E5E Communication problem.
E5F Communication problem.
E67 Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 Better models only. Water temperature sensor circuit.
E76 Better model only. NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits.
E95 Communication error.
EB1 Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 Incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 Clogged drain pump.
EF2 Too much soap.

Jul 24, 2014 | Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Compressor problems


probably a bad discharge temp sensor or a bad thermo valve which is really a thermostat you need to take the temperature of the running unit when it is running best way is to use a inferred temp gun at the discharge of the pump or watch you temp guage if it jumps around or is erratic the sensor is bad .compressor usually will shut off on high temp at 230f

Mar 11, 2014 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

PAC260 compressor cuts off and the red caution light comes on and it just blows room temperature air. If I press the reset button at the rear it blows cold air again.


There are actually several conditions that could be causing your compressor to draw excessive amperage. If the system is low on its refrigerant charge, the compressor will draw less amps than normal because it is not working as hard as it would with a full charge so low refrigerant is probably not the problem. It is true that the refrigerant vapor being drawn into the compressor is used to cool the windings and if the windings are not cooled it will overheat and trip an internal protective device, but it will not draw high amperage. If there is a problem with the voltage causing it to be lower than normal, the compressor will draw more amperage. A lower than normal voltage is rarely to be found though. If air or some other noncondensable gas has been introduced into the refrigerant system, higher than normal discharge pressures will exist and the expansion device that meters the refrigerant into the evaporator coil (the indoor coil) will not works as it is supposed to. If someone has recently accessed the
glp-1 elisa kithttp://www.cusabio.com/bio1-G-GLP961-7-3.html refrigerant side of your system, it is possible that they allowed some air from their gauge manifold to get in by neglecting to purge the gauage manifild or the hoses properly, but air will not normally just work its way into the system without someone actually putting it in. The most likely cause for the excessive amperage is a dirty condensor coil. When the coil becomes dirty, as it is wont to do, the coil has a more difficult time allowing heat to transfer out of the refrigerant into the air that is being drawn over it by the condensor fan. The normal design of a condensor coil is for the refrigerant to give up its heat content and begin to condense into liquid form at a temperature about 30 degrees above the outdoor air temperature (that's for a standard efficiency coil, a high efficiency coil does it at about 20 degrees above the air temperature). The pressure that the discharge gases are at is directly related to the temperature it is going to condense at. The higher the temperature, the higher the pressure. For a system using R-22 the design characteristic is for it to condense at 125 degrees F on a 95 degree F day. That means that the pressure will be approximately 275 psi. If the coil is dirty it will have a more difficult time allowing heat to transfer out into the air and the condensing temperature will be more than the 125 degrees F. That means the discharge pressure will be higher. The higher the pressure, the harder the compressor will have to work and the more amperage it will draw. The compressor has a built in protective device that is temperature sensitive. As more amperage is being used the temperature of the windings will be higher. If that temperature goes high enough the internal protection will open. Many systems also have a high pressure cutout installed. If the discharge pressure becomes too high, the cutout opens and shuts the compressor off. When the compressor turns off, the pressures on the low pressure side and the high pressure side will equalize slowly. The high pressure condition will go away. Many systems have what is called a lockout protection feature for some of the faults they can experience. Lockout conditions are normally reset by turning off power to the system and then turning it back on. Since the high pressure condition has gone away because of the equalized pressures, the system will start up again, but the discharge pressure will quickly build back up and trip the high pressure cutout again. Condensor coils can be cleaned very easily. Turn off the power to the unit. Using a 5/16" nut driver, remove the screws that hold the condensor fan cover in place and lift the fan and that shroud up and away from the unit. There will be several wires running to the fan motor, but you should be able to raise the motor out of its well so that the inside of the coil is exposed. Take a garden hose with a spray nozzle attached and wash through the coil with it. Try to make sure that the stream of water strikes directly into the coil, not at an angle. The fins are made of aluminum and they will bend easily if the water stream is striking them at an angle. The dirt and debris that has acculated in the coil will be flushed out, increasing the coils ability to transfer heat and work at the proper pressures. There are coil cleaning solutions that can be purchased to assist in cleaning the coil. Condensor coil cleaning solutions arre mixed with water to dilute them (one part cleaner and 3 or 4 parts water) and then sprayed onto the coil with a hand pump sprayer like you would use in the garden. The cleaner solution will foam up after it is applied and will help to fluch out the dirt and debris. The solutions are made with either an acid base or an alkyline base. You may be able to find condensor coil cleaner solution at Lowe's or Home Depot. You can certainly find it at most hvac parts supply houses such as Johnstone Supply, United Refrigeration, RE Michels, CC Dickson, MIngledorf's,

Dec 11, 2013 | DeLonghi Pinguino PACL90 Portable Air...

1 Answer

Need codes for UBD2 reader


Try these.
P1000OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
P1001KOER Test Cannot Be Completed
P1039Vehicle Speed Signal Missing or Improper
P1051Brake Switch Signal Missing or Improper
P1100Mass Air Flow Sensor Intermittent
P1101Mass Air Flow Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1112Intake Air Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P1114Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit Low Input
P1115Intake Air Temperature 2 Circuit High Input
P1116Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is out of Self-Test Range
P1117Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Intermittent
P1120Throttle Position Sensor out of range
P1121Throttle Position Sensor Inconsistent with Mass Air Flow Sensor
P1124Throttle Position Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1125Throttle Position Sensor Intermittent
P1127Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater not on During KOER Test - Exhaust Not Warm Enough
P1129Upstream O2 Sensors Swapped Bank To Bank (HO2S-11-21)
P1130Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 1
P1131Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1132Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
P1135Ignition Switch Signal Missing or Improper
P1137Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P1138Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
P1150Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 2
P1151Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P1152Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
P1157Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
P1158Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
P1168FRP Sensor In Range But Low
P1169FRP Sensor In Range But High
P1180Fuel Delivery System Low
P1181Fuel Delivery System High
P1183EOT Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1184EOT Sensor Out Of Range
P1220Series Throttle Control fault
P1224Throttle Position Sensor B out of Self-Test Range
P1229Supercharger Intercooler Pump Not Working
P1230Open Power to Fuel Pump circuit
P1231High Speed Fuel Pump Relay activated
P1232Low Speed Fuel Pump Primary circuit failure
P1233Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
P1234Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
P1235Fuel Pump Control out of range
P1236Fuel Pump Control out of range
P1237Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
P1238Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
P1244Generator Load Input Low
P1245Generator Load Input High
P1246Generator Load Input Failed
P1250Lack of Power to FPRC Solenoid
P1260Theft Detected - Engine Disabled
P1270Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limiter Reached
P1285Cylinder Head Over Temperature Sensed
P1288Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1289Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range
P1290Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Less Than Self-Test Range
P1299Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition
P1309Misfire Detection Monitor not enabled
P1336CKP and/or CMP Input Signal to PCM Concerns
P1351Ignition Diagnostic Monitor circuit Input fault
P1352Ignition Coil A - Primary circuit fault
P1353Ignition Coil B - Primary circuit fault
P1354Ignition Coil C - Primary circuit fault
P1355Ignition Coil D - Primary circuit fault
P1356Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input to PCM
P1358Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal out of Self-Test Range
P1359Spark Output circuit fault
P1364Ignition Coil Primary circuit fault
P1380Variable Cam Timing Solenoid A Circuit Malfunction
P1381Variable Cam Timing Over-advanced (Bank 1)
P1383Variable Cam Timing Over-retarded (Bank 1)
P1390Octane Adjust out of Self-Test Range
P1400Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Low Voltage
P1401Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage
P1403Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor Hoses Reversed
P1405Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Upstream Hose
P1406Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Downstream Hose
P1407EGR No Flow Detected
P1408EGR Flow out of Self-Test Range
P1409EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction
P1410EGR Barometric Pressure Sensor VREF Voltage
P1411Secondary Air is not being diverted
P1413Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit Low Voltage
P1414Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
P1432THTRC Circuit Failure
P1436A/C Evaporator Temperature Circuit Low Input
P1437A/C Evaporator Temperature Circuit High Input
P1442Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
P1443Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault
P1444Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input Low
P1445Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input High
P1450Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
P1451EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P1452Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
P1455Substantial Leak or Blockage in Evaporative Emission Control System
P1460Wide Open Throttle Air Conditioning Cutoff circuit malfunction
P1461Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit Low Input
P1462Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit high Input
P1463Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor Insufficient Pressure change
P1464ACCS to PCM High During Self-Test
P1469Low Air Conditioning Cycling Period
P1473Fan Secondary High with Fans Off
P1474Low Fan Control Primary circuit
P1477MFC Primary Circuit Failure
P1479High Fan Control Primary circuit
P1480Fan Secondary Low with Low Fans On
P1481Fan Secondary Low with High Fans On
P1483Power to Cooling Fan Exceeded Normal Draw
P1484Variable Load Control Module Pin 1 Open
P1500Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent
P1501Programmable Speedometer & Odometer Module/Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Intermittent circuit-failure
P1502Invalid or Missing Vehicle Speed Message or Brake Data
P1504Intake Air Control circuit malfunction
P1505Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip
P1506Idle Air Control Over Speed Error
P1507Idle Air Control Under Speed Error
P1512Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
P1513Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
P1516Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
P1517Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
P1518Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Open
P1519Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Closed
P1520Intake Manifold Runner Control circuit fault
P1530Open or Short to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit
P1537Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1538Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
P1539Power to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit Exceeded Normal Current Draw
P1549Intake Manifold Temperature Valve Vacuum Actuator Connection
P1550Power Steering Pressure Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1572Brake Pedal Switch Circuit
P1605PCM Keep Alive Memory Test Error
P1625Voltage to Vehicle Load Control Module Fan circuit not detected
P1626Voltage to Vehicle Load Control Module circuit not detected
P1633Keep Alive Power Voltage Too Low
P1635Tire/Axle Out Of Acceptable Range
P1636Inductive Signiture Chip Communication Error
P1639Vehicle ID Block Not Programmed Or Corrupt
P1640DTC\'s Available In Another Module
P1650Power Steering Pressure Switch out of Self-Test Range
P1651Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal Malfunction
P1700Transmission system problems
P1701Reverse Engagement Error
P1702Transmission system problems
P1703Brake On/Off Switch out of Self-Test Range
P1704Transmission system problems
P1705Transmission Range Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1709Park or Neutral Position Switch out of Self-Test Range
P1710Transmission system problems
P1711Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range
P1713Transmission system problems
P1714Transmission system problems
P1715Transmission system problems
P1716Transmission system problems
P1717Transmission system problems
P1718Transmission system problems
P1719Transmission system problems
P1720Transmission system problems
P17294x4 Low Switch Error
P1740Transmission system problems
P1741Torque Converter Clutch Control Error
P1742Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Faulty
P1743Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Faulty
P1744Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in Off Position
P1745Transmission system problems
P1746Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Open circuit
P1747Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid - Short circuit
P1749Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid Failed Low
P1751Shift Solenoid No. 1 Performance
P1754Coast Clutch Solenoid circuit malfunction
P1756Shift Solenoid No. 2 Performance
P1760Transmission system problems
P1761Shift Solenoid No. 3 Performance
P1762Transmission system problems
P1767Transmission system problems
P1780Transmission Control Switch circuit is out of Self-Test Range
P17814x4 Low Switch is out of Self-Test Range
P1783Transmission Over-Temperature Condition
P1784Transmission system problems
P1785Transmission system problems
P1786Transmission system problems
P1787Transmission system problems
P1788Transmission system problems
P1789Transmission system problems
P1900Transmission system problems

Mar 25, 2013 | Ford Vehicle Parts & Accessories

3 Answers

I have a 1994 chevy c1500 with a 305 motor. when i turn on the A/C the clutch engages/disengages continuously but no cold air. Any ideas?


Your A/C system may be running low on R134a.
To diagnose problems, an A/C manifold gauge set is needed to read high and low side pressure readings. Avoid adding refrigerant with a simple charging kit like the ones sold at parts stores. Don’t add any stop leak, this can cause problems in the compressor, expansion valve or condenser.
First, on a 134A system the high and low side service ports are different sizes. AC gauge sets have color coded hoses, the blue color coded hose has a connection that fits on the low side service port and the red hose has a connection that will only fit onto the high side. The yellow hose won’t hook up to anything if just checking the readings; it can be used to connect to a vacuum pump or attached to a refrigerant can or tank.
Normal readings on high and low side with AC OFF (static pressure) – Depends on outside temperature, but normally is between 80-105 PSI
Normal low side reading with AC on high speed and MAX & engine at 800-1000 RPM’s – Ranges from 25-35 PSI – Note that on many Chrysler products a normal reading on the low side may be 15-25 PSI
Normal high side reading ranges from 200-350 PSI
Don’t assume that if adding little Freon is good that adding a lot is better! Overcharging just a little can decrease the performance of the system and possibly damage the compressor.
With the AC on the coldest setting, use a thermometer in a middle vent. Normal vent temperature readings will vary depending on the (ambient) outside temp. The vent temperature should range from around 42-55 degrees in my experience. If normal gauge readings are obtained and the vent air is cold – STOP don’t overcharge the system. The only proper way to remove refrigerant is with a AC recovery machine so if this is being done at home I can’t emphasize enough not to over charge the system. And actually the best way to insure the proper charge is in a system, is to use an AC machine to recover the freon and then evacuate and recharge the system with the correct amount. Most cars have the specified amount on a decal under the hood.
Both low and high side readings are lower than normal, this indicates a cars AC system is low on refrigerant and is under-charged.
If both low and high side readings are too high, this indicates an overcharged system – too much refrigerant. This also can indicate that the condenser fan is not working, is too slow or the car is overheating and heat is transferring from the radiator to the condenser.
When the low side goes so low that it’s reading shows it is in a vacuum, the most likely cause is a bad expansion valve or blocked orifice tube. Another possibility is a restricted condenser. Blocked condensers are not as common as they used to be but if a compressor fails and comes apart inside the remnants can end up in the condenser causing it to restrict the flow of refrigerant.
When the compressor clutch is definitely engaged and the low side is high and the high side is low, the most likely cause is that the compressor is failing – it is not pumping sufficiently. Rarely an AC clutch could be slipping but usually this will be accompanied with a squeal or chirp. Also be sure not to overlook the obvious, like a loose belt
Note: The line going from the compressor to the condenser is the discharge line – it is normal for it to be very hot to the touch. The other line going from the drier or accumulator to the compressor is normally colder. The liquid line can be hot up to the point an orifice tube is in place. Just remember that LOW Pressure = COLD and HIGH Pressure = HOT.
If you do want to recharge the system your self, make sure you do not over charge and use the thermometer at the vent and when it's cold enough, turn off the valve from the recharge line and disconnect from the low pressure service port. Good luck

Nov 04, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

Operating pressures for 134A refrigerant system


I would go for 40 on the suction and 150 discharge, or divide the locked rotor current by 6 and charge so the current is 1/6 of the locked rotor current of the compressor, or by temperature/pressure relation 110* discharge and 35* suction, or get the suction line sweating. The best way is to remove all the refrigerant and then weigh the refrigerant the system is designed for on these critical charge appliances.

May 20, 2009 | Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

1 Answer

Hot air comes out at all times even when i turn on a/c


I think your cooling fan (elecric) isn't working when the a/c is on. If so, The a/c pressure climbs very high and pops open the emergency pressure release to save the system from damage.

Check your cooling fan and relays, or ect, engine collant temp sensor.

You may have to add freon too.

-----------
A/C Pressure Cutoff Switch

The A/C pressure cutoff switch is used to interrupt A/C compressor operation in the event of high system discharge pressures.
  • The A/C pressure cutoff switch is mounted on a Schrader valve-type fitting on the A/C compressor to condenser discharge line.
  • It is not necessary to discharge the refrigerant system to remove the A/C pressure cutoff switch.
  • A valve depressor, located inside the threaded end of the A/C pressure cutoff switch, presses on the Schrader valve stem.
  • This allows the A/C pressure cutoff switch to monitor the compressor discharge pressure.
  • When the compressor discharge pressure rises, the switch contacts open, disengaging the A/C compressor. When the pressure drops, the contacts close to allow operation of the A/C compressor. For specifications regarding operating pressure(s), refer to Section 412-00 .
The switch contains a second set of electrical contacts used for high-speed cooling fan control.
  • When the compressor discharge pressure rises, the contacts close and engage the high-speed fan control. When the pressure drops, the contacts open and the high speed fan control is disengaged. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .

Apr 24, 2009 | 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis

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