Question about Kodak EasyShare One Digital Camera

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Can't get the full LCD to remain available-defaults to frame

I want the full 3" screen to be available, but it keeps reverting back to a frame around the outside, which I think is the Smart Technology, that makes the camera default to a small number of megapixels, rather than the 10 that made me buy this model of camera. Do we really only need to use 2.5 megapixels for a decent picture & I just over bought or the 10 is just overkill? Is there any way to keep this camera in the manual mode so the 10 megapixels remain available at all times?

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Is it just the display that behaves this way? Please check the Image Quality option in the shooting or settings menu. Select the Largest option available (normally you get options such as Large and Fine). This will make the camera shoot in full resolution. After taking the picture, access the menu again and check whether the camera has automatically changed the Image Quality to a lower resolution.

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

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HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW

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Nov 17, 2009 | Samsung SyncMaster 204BW LCD Monitor

1 Answer

Screen not coming on


Typical problems with Samsung SyncMaster.

I just did this to a friends monitor as well, a different model and not much different in build. I think you might have 3 screws on lower back side of cover. Start your separation from the bottom of the frame.Your power switch will remain on the front frame while the wire will remain with the rest. Read the rest it will help.

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start(different versions might have screws). The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable(if you need to remove it), two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel. Unhook the 4 plugs(blues and pinks)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.56ec44b.jpg
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