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KitchenAid washer brake problem

What would cause the plastic disc in the brake section of the transmission on a KitchenAid KAWS850GT1 (direct drive) washer to keep breaking?

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An obstruction in the pump impeller or basket.


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Posted on Sep 13, 2010

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I have a kenmore top washer and when i turn it on it makes this grinding noise i if its a belt i was wondering if there is one cause i think that i might be gear driven and not belt and if i need to...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be

damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Dec 12, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

The washer makes a very loud "thunk" and stops suddenly at the end of the wash cycle. Does not seem to be spinning as much water out of the clothes at the end of the rinse cycle also.


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+28822791&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

A couple of possible solutions to your problems.
First: Banging during hard stop.

Assuming that the springs are OK and that the vibration pads are in place and not worn, (See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual)

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

the problem points to the brake.

The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.

Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.

Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.

A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.

Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.

As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same. Whirlpool (and Sears) have replacement brake pad / spring sets.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


It's not an especially difficult job and can definately save you the cost of a repair person.\

Second: Not draining / spinning well enough.

I'd check both of the following while you have the drive tube out for the brake fix.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Jun 02, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer makes sreaming noises when in the spin cycle what could be wrong.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

THREE POSSIBILITIES. TWO EASY, ONE A BIT MESSY BUT DOABLE.


Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

2. It may be the clutch bands have worn.

See the following for how to remove the pump, motor and transmission. The clutch is on top of the transmission. Sears has replacement clutch bands.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the drive tube and brake to change clutch bands.

3. If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch, it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft (About $15.00).

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($15 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.


Apr 27, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer spins AND agitates, but makes almost a ''rubbing'' noise when it does. Seems to work just fine its just making a noise


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning and that may be the cause of the "rubbing" noise.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6

inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they

don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a Kitchenaid washer 11 cycle about ten years old that will not spin any idals on how to repair


Could be a bad lid switch.
Could be a bad direct drive coupling.
Could be a bad timer.

Remove the 2 screws holding the control console to the top panel. They are on the left and right corners.Pull the console forward slightly and fold it to the rear of the machine. You will see a wiring plug in the top of the cabinet . Unplug this plug. Use a volt meter set for continuity and place the meter leads in the plug receptacle on the cabinet. One lead on the right hand pin,one lead on the left hand pin. With the lid closed it should read continuity. Open and close the lid while touching the meter leads to the pins,the meter should show contact while closed and no contact while open. If there is no contact,replace the lid switch.

If the lid switch is OK, remove the 2 metal brass clips holding the corners of the cabinet to the back panel.Pull the cabinet forward to remove it. UNPLUG THE WASHER. Get on the floor and remove the wires to the motor. Remove the clips holding the water pump to the front of the motor. Remove the 2 clips holding the motor to the transmission. Remove the motor. There will be a plastic piece on the motor shaft,a rubber gasket,then a plastic piece in the transmission shaft.The plastic pieces have 3 plastic pins on them. They may be broken off. The plastic pieces may also be stripped inside where they mount on the motor and transmission shaft. If these are defective buy a new direct drive coupling and install it. The front of the coupling should be flush with the motor shaft and transmission shaft when correctly installed.

If the direct drive coupling is OK. Replace all the parts and re-assemble the washer. PLUG IT IN. With the lid closed. Set the machine to the final spin cycle and turn it on.If you hear the motor running and no spin,open,then close the lid. If it spins then it is a bad timer.

Jan 01, 2010 | KitchenAid Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a KitchenAid topload washer. The spin cycle does not work, you can hear the pump and motor but it will not turn. What could be the problem? Is it belt driven or gear driven? Sherry


First, see the following to determine if you have a direct or belt drive washer

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=50&osCsid=7a980a8b05b84ff3b7ee1c8ba46e2ae8

Whirlpool makes Kenmore and Kitchen Aid.

If you have a direct drive washer, the following may help.

The Kenmore / Whirlpool /Kitchen Aid top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If the washer agitates fine, the pump will drain but the washer will not spin, the problem points to the transmission / gearcase.
This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kitchenaid) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

OR

ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.

Oct 28, 2009 | KitchenAid Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing mashine tub pounds when spinning on kenmore series 70


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the component section on the base of the washer.

There are springs and friction pads designed to keep the inner tub from moving too much when agitating and especially spinning.

One or more of the springs may have come loose or the friction pads may have worn.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load direct drive washers with a troubleshooting section.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


Also see the following for how to remove the cabinet in order to gain access to the springs and pads.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the springs and pads are fine, I'd consider looking into the "agitator cam" in the transmission.

If the cam doesn't lift the agitator gear high enough during the spin cycle, (as we had) you would get a major vibration.

See the section in the Whirlpool manual on how the transmission works and the agitator cam.

We had to replace ours and the vibration stopped.

Only if you need to, look at the following.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)


Oct 19, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 70series top loader: end of spin cycle the


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

A couple of possibilities.

1. The Brake Cam Driver in the brake assembly (a plastic piece could be broken.

2. The break springs may also be broken.

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance guide for direct drive washers. It has a section on how to access and replace the brake and drive tube.

You'll have to remove the agitators and the drive block. There is a spanner wrench to remove the drive block nut but I've found that a short 10: pipe wrench hooked over one of the nubs on the nut and sharply taped with a hammer will loosen it.

Please see GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase


Sep 26, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer odor


The most likely cause of a burnt rubber smell is a worn motor coupler.

Sears parts site

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24922200&pop=flush

Go to the sub section with the brake/clutch/motor/gearcase and item # 13 is the motor coupler between the motor and transmission.

It has three parts. 1. A plastic piece with three prongs fits on the transmission input shaft. 2. A plastic piece with three prongs fits on the motor output shaft and 2. a RUBBER grommet with 6 holes fits between them.

Over time, the rubber piece can wear and the two plastic pieces can rub against it at speed causing a rubber burning smell.

Replacing one is easy.

Remove the cabinet, the pump (2 clips) the motor (two screws and clips) and the motor mounting bracket (two 1/2: bolts).

Remove the rubber piece and pry off the two plastic pieces. Fit the new plastic pieces on the transmission and motor shafts. Replace the mounting plate. Carefully line up the six holes as you put the motor back on.

Replace the motor mounting clips, the pump and clips and cabinet.

Sep 10, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Washer makes noises


You said, when the washer is going into spin cycle it makes a loud clunking noise. You are wondering if this could be the brakes or possibly the pump?

Sounds like this!

Faulty direct drive Coupling (Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Estate)
The direct drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands washing machines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.

It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading.
it can also be a broken spring or strut dependping on your washes make and type

Please remember to leave a rating

Nov 16, 2008 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

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