Fridge just decided to start blinking the lights and the small door for the ice opens and closes. Sometimes it stops, other times it seems to be going constantly. I have turned the ice maker off because it seemed to stop making ice but this didn't change anything, neither did unplugging the fridge. Things seem cold.
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With the freezer door open, depress the flap on the left. Does the flashing stop? If so, the Ice maker is the problem, not he optics. With the flap depressed is the only way you can test this. Solid light mean good, one flash and a pause means cycling, 2 flashes and a pause means faulted optics. Now for the ice maker, what position are the harvest fingers sitting at? At 2 O'clock the Ice maker is parked, At 12 it should fill with water so if the fingers are in any other position than 2 O'clock than the ice maker will not cycle at it can't. Its possible that the ice maker have a broken gear and will not function as designed. Get back to me if you need more information and a model number would be great. Good Luck
Pour about 2/3 cup of water into the ice maker . Also , check the black fill hose that fill the ice maker , to make sure it is not frozen . If the ice maker dumps the cubes , then replace the water inlet valve . If the ice maker holds the ice , and does not dump , replace the ice maker . When you open the freezer door , the laser light , should blink twice , then pause ,repeatedly . If you close the flap on the left side , the laser should go off . These are indication that the optics are good . If you open the door , and no laser light , then that means that the ice maker is in the harvest (dump) mode . If it stays this way , ice maker is bad .
I would assume you are referring to the ice level sensor that is on the center divider. It is normal for it to blink if the door is open. You can test out this theory by holding the flap on the left side closed but not blocking the sensor. The light should go steady. If the ice maker is not working then you either need to change the lazer sensor or the ice maker itself.
then you either after doing this have a water to the ice maker problem, or an ice maker issue
go to the water valve and disconnect the small plastic line at the water valve and with a cheater cord connect it to the water valve, naturaly remove the factory connector at the water valve first and plug your cheater cord into the ac if you get water out of the valve the valve is good if you do not the valve is bad
if you get water out of the valve then you have a problem in the ice maker IF the line to the ice maker is clear and no obstructions
This sounds like the Maytag bottom mount that has a High Voltage Control Board problem. Does this have the freezer/fridge temp. display/controls on the left hand fridge door? Whats the model number and on the manufacture tag does it something on it like Code:0304 maybe? Let me know I may have an answer I do work on these for a living.
The description says you have an LG fridge? I may need the entire model # from the sticker inside the fridge to tell for sure, but there is a motor behind the dispenser controls that opens the door. Let me know if you need more help. Also, you can view parts and diagrams at http://www.appliancepartspros.com/.
J, As you open the freezer door the LED on the right should flash 2X with a pause repeatedly. When you hold the left side emmiter down the light should stay on steady. If you have this, you know the optics are good unless the ejector blades are not home. First thing to check is where the ejector blades on the ice maker are parked. They should be resting in the 2:00 position. If they are not, you could have a broken module. If they are in the 2:00 positon the next thing to check would be the fill tube. You want to make sure it is not frozen over. You can disconnect it from the back and see if you can blow through the line or visually inspect it. If all of the above mentioned check out, jump start the ice-maker. Remove the quarter inch screw holding the harness cover on the right side. Remove the harness cover. Pull the ice-maker straight out but be carefull not to smash the emmitter flap on the left side. Leave the harness connected. Get a jumper wire with the ends stripped apout a 1/4 inch. Unplug the refer and place the jumper in test holes T&H. Leave the jumper in and place the ice maker on the shelf where you can close the door. Close the door and plug the refer back in. Wait 30 seconds and open the door. The ice maker should be cycleing. Pull the jumper and place the module cover back on. Put the ice maker back in the rails. It should fill at approx the 12:00 position. Let me know how you make out. Catriver.
See the post on Samurai Appliance Repair Man's site http://applianceguru.com/forum1/13035-1.html for instructions on how it's possible to fix the HV Controller Board power supply filter caps for $5 in Radio Shack parts (really!). You need to be able to solder electronic components, or know someone who can. There are 2 power supply filter caps that appear to go bad and the result is the blinking and flapping. I had the same problem and decided I could not wait for a $150 replacement back-ordered board.
Use a cup of water and just fill the ice cube maker with enough water for the first batch and the sensor will then begin making ice again.
My ice cube maker stopped working after I changed the filter. After reading countless posts about wiring and defrosting and using a blowdryer into the fill line I emptied my freezer and fridge, then unplugged it. I got no results after two days. I finally just put some water in the ice cube maker (the metal ice cube tray below the white plastic fingers that forms the cubes) plugged it back in and closed the door for a few hours and it worked. I wonder if I needed to defrost the unit at all. It was working before I changed the filter, then the filter was full and stopped water from flowing (or decreased the flow dramatically anyway).