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Your carb is starving gas from your saw. You will have to remove the carb. and take it apart, check the diaphragms for hardening or splitting, clean all passages and screen. There is a lot of small parts that have to be put back together correctly, also the diaphragms and their gaskets have to be installed right.
Unfortantaly its awaly the carb with this kind of tool Its a two stroke so you mix oil in the gas then it sits aruond for a couple of years until you need it and the oil gas mixture gets gummy and sticks the neddle valve witch lets the fuel into the float bowl and also shuts it off Try this get some starter fluid get the thing running on choke and spray it into the carb it may clean up some of your problems But the best thing to do is take apart the carb and clean it then it should work like new and its realy not that hard to do and you don;t need any new parts it can be done on a table in 20 minutes
It's not getting gas. Possible wrong mix oil to gas, but not real likely. Possible sat over the last winter with gas in it and varnished. I'm guessing this is the one, more likely than not. take cover and filter off and clean and bag 'em. pour carb cleaner in the carb and soak overnight. Dump out (carb cleaner and old gas)into a sealable jar or can and fill with straight gas and soak an hour and dump into trash gas/carb cleaner. Use a bicycle pump to blow air into carb to dry it. At most use a computer air can. Then start with the right gas/oil mix, prime it, set the trigger and choke and drop start. (It helps to have the spark plug out during the soak. Then clean it and sandpaper the gap and the magneto area on the flywheel).
unleaded fuel is notorious for going stale,and it can leave a resinous coating in the carb-try running the saw on half choke with new gas and less oil eg 50 to 1 for say ten minutes,this should clear the gunk out-if this does not work,you have two choices-strip and clean the carb,or adjust the H (high) scew on the carb anti-clockwise by a quarter turn a time till it revs out full bore-good idea to remove the chain and wear ear defenders when adjusting-and always use a chainsaw at its max rpm,or you run the risk of "kickback"
If you have a compression gauge, check the compression. Anything under 90psi is too low.
Check your flywheel key. If it is broken the flywheel will move and not fire at the correct time.
Note: if it does not sputter with carb cleaner then it's not your carb.
Next: Remove your exhaust manifold. Look into the cylinder with a flash
light. You are looking for scratches. Anything larger then a light
fingernail is definite proof you need a new cylinder/piston assy.
If it passes that test do the following:
mixed fuel straight into your cylinder until 1/4 full. Slowly pull your
saw over while looking into the cylinder. If you see bubbles after the
ring/rings go by then you need a new cylinder/piston assy. On rare
occasions if no scratches are present on the cylinder wall or piston,
you may be able to change just the rings.
Hi brandon First change the sparkplug with the same heat range,Check and clean the gas filter with compressed air.Remove the carb and very carefully disassembly entirely.Check the gaskets and the diafragms.At the fuel pump side there is a fine screen(clean it).Check the needle,the spring and lever.Unlock the screws L and H(note how many turns are they).Put the corp of the carb in a special clean solution for 12 hours and then clean it with compressed air(something is clogged there).Put all back together and try to start the engine. regards savumihai71