My Huskee snowblower with a 5 hp Tecumseh motor ran fine a few times this winter, then would only run on full choke. Now it seems to choke itself out after running for perhaps 5 seconds or so. It starts, then dies, etc. Possibly a dirty fuel filter? Ice in the gas line? Haven't used it that many hours. It sits in an unheated/unattached garage when not in use.
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Re: engine keeps flooding out
Recommend completely draining the fuel system. Tank, lines, and carb. Make sure everything is clean and dry. Clean or replace fuel filter. Always try to store it with a full tank of fuel. It is common to get condensation when the weather goes from warm to cold and back.
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This can be very frustrating and tough on the back and arm.
Always confirm the the fuel tank valve is open and the stop/run switch is in run position
It takes three things to run:
Compression. This is the resistance that you feel as you crank the engine. Some engines have compression release to assist getting the rotation started. You should be able to feel the compression stroke as you rotate, Remove the plug and you can easily tell the deference. If it had, last time used, been running and starting with no problem I would assume that the compression is OK. Gauges are available to check. at lease 120 PSI
Spark. It is near impossible to lose the spark timing on these. It can only be magnitude and presence. If in doubt about the condition of spark plug replace. I usually lay the plug on top of the head with wire attached and observe for the spark. No spark no start.
Confirm that the throttle is in the wide open position. It is possible during the repair the spring or rod has closed the throttle air valve. Air/fuel mixture is always hard to trouble shoot. I use open choke and starter fluid to conform that compression and spark are working. After that I will choke on a cold motor and pull listening for the first fire. At the first fire I would usually half choke and pull to first run. Full choke for many pulls will only flood engine!! If no joy then I would allow engine to vent and go back to start fluid. If it will run on start fluid than either carburetor is messed up or quality of fuel is bad.
If after several tries and fuel is certain to be good remove plug and check for gas. It is possible that the new carb float valve or mixture adjustment screws are messed up.
Had the same issue and found out that the wheels lock when the motor isn't running and the accelerator handle is engaged. I still had both handles tied down from transporting home and it rolled fine after they were untied. Hope that helps
Try the spring on the governor. sounds like it's not hooked up, or extremely week. I rebuild and sell these all winter. I've had it happen a few times. Runs really good! but, will ruin the motor running over speed like that. There are adjustments- some have the spring on a long flange of metal so it can be bent backwards to add tension- it doesn't take much! If the motor starts to rev up and down and up and down, add a hair more tension. It there is too much tension it will stall out when you hit heavy snow.
If it starts at completely cold to fine tune the high jet adjustment.first off the high speed jet should be initially set at 1 1/2 turns out from lightly bottomed all the way in. next when you do your prestart routine,choke all the way on,primer pumped two times,throttle set at the high speed position,ignition key on,fuel line turned on.(this is my prestartup for my 8hp tecumseh)yours may be slightly different.use whatever starts your machine the easiest! once my machine starts up i can almost immediately turn the choke completely off. i can do that because the high speed jet is opened enough or rich enough for the engine to run.if you adjust the high speed in it will lean the motor out(you found that to be true!) to where it will miss and backfire and eventually quit. start at 1 1/2 turns out and start the engine,once the engine starts if you take the choke off right away use what it does as a guide to high speed adjustment. if the engine quits turn the screw out 1/4 turn and so on.use the very first cold startup as the test for high speed mixture adjustment. at completely cold startup you have the jet adjusted correctly when the engine will sustain itself when you completely take the choke off very shortly after startup. let the amount of choke you need at cold start to keep the engine running be your guide.too lean and the engine will not stay running without the choke at all,too rich and the engine will not pull under extreme loads and will show signs of black soot out the exhaust. you want the jet adjusted so within 5 seconds of cold start the engine will stay running with no choke at all. find that needle setting ( don't ad any more!! ) and you'll be good to go.keep in mind the above is not optimum and is a little rich but you will like the way it starts,stays running,and overall performs as adjusted above.
They aren't designed to run with full choke on, the choke is for starting cold engines only, many times you can choke them pull the cord a few times and then turn the choke off or turn it down to start it. Then slowly reduce the choke until it runs fine on its own.
you probably made the mistake of leaving it in the shed over winter with gas in it. in the carb there is a diaphgram that oumps this fuel in via the motor vibrations. said diaphgram had been ruptured due to drying gas in the carb. the solver to this is to either have a small engine mechanic replace it or the whole carb or get a new one, and i would suggest you get the cs26 model instead. i have a cs30 and cs26 and i have had less problems with 26. it only has two chokes. you prime it. you push lever to start, closing all but a little bit of carb,giving engine much richer mixture. you squeeze trigger, opens halfway/full, as there are two chokers in the carb, on controlled by lever and another by throttle.basically now you haave half choke. you release trigger, goes back to 7/8 choke to keep at idle but not running. your ready to go. on the cs30 its much more complicated: ful choke prime 7x. pull 4x half choke pull till start. wait ten seconds of running at idle rotate to run good to go. but these guys have porr design. if you take off the back cover and look above fuel tank on cs30, the crank is RIGHT SMACK THERE and not better secured like in the '26 model. that's what the little circular hole is in it. anywho, the diaphgram is ruptured, and you probably haven't noticed that in addition you have gas leaking out the carb's air intake.