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Fan runs continuously

Vokera option combi boiler. fan runs contiuously even when no demand for heat or hot water. it still runs when air pressure switch is disconnected

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The air pressure which does not controll the fan it is a safe guard for the gas/oil burner to ignite nowing that the fan is running ( air switch normaly negative /positive prssure n/o,n/c circuits. it could be that your boiler is designed for a cant think of techinacal name but when in centre of house/factory and has 1 or more boilers connected to flue etc the fans run when only power to boiler is on , non vented system ? it could be a simple link to remove in controll panel i would phone technical help for manufacture ?

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

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Wickes 102 combi boiler constantly loosing water pressure


It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"
this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

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over heat limit stat on central heating circuit ? if hot water is ok and hot to temp when run for 5 minutes the expansion vessel is doing its job.remember hot water is the maximum demand for any boiler ,,heating is secondry?once you establish hot water at maximum rate then the only real problem is on you demand for heating??

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1 Answer

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The first thing you need to do is to put some more water into your heating system. This is usually done by allowing water from your (pressurised) domestic cold water supply to flow into the system: On older boilers, this is done with a connection (often made with a removable hose) on the pipework just outside the boiler. Newer boilers may have a built-in connection with some sort of removable link (sometimes looks like a plastic key).

Once you've got the boiler up to working pressure (typically about 1 bar - 15 psi), you should be able to bleed your upstairs radiator properly.

This may be all it takes, though the pressure excursions you're getting when you run the hot tap suggest there may be another problem. See what happens to the pressure as the boiler heats up and cools down. There really ought to be very little pressure difference between the two conditions. If you see significant changes, this usually means that the "pressure vessel" (or in hydraulic terms, system accumulaor) has lost its air charge.

The pressure vessel is a metal container inside the boiler, usually painted in red enamel. Somewhere near the top, you will find a schrader valve (like the one on a car tyre), and you can use this along with a tyre pump to replenish the air in the top of the vessel. This will reduce your pressure transients for a while, but you need to keep an eye on it. If the problem returns, you probably need to replace the pressure vessel (or clag another one into the plumbing alongside the boiler).

A.

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