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Kenmore gas dryer Model 110077974630 - radiant sensor burns up

I got this dryer free a few months ago so it doesn't owe me much. But it has not heated well. Flame would burn for a few minutes, then shut off and not come on for the remainder of the cycle. Last week I discovered that the radiant/flame sensor glass window was broken and the black plastic case wall burned through on one side. So when everything was ice cold the burner came on. But with a bit of warmth there was no ignition.

I got a new sensor and put it in. It was great for 3 loads, then the igniter quit glowing. After a pile of fooling about I decided to see if the radiant sensor was working. This new one is burned up too. This time the sensor was jammed open so the igniter wasn't glowing.

I thought it was suspicious that a bit of flame was going out the hole in the flame shroud where the sensor is mounted. I suspect this sensor must detect just that a flame is present close by, and there should be no flame against it. My question is: Where should the flame be in relation to this radiant sensor and how do I adjust the burner/shroud/sensor to ensure another new one doesn't burn up too?

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  • Doug Simkin Feb 02, 2009

    Thanks for your prompt response to this question. There are no stickers anywhere on the dryer indicating LP conversion. I have removed the gas valve assembly and taken off the vent cap on top of the valve. There is no stem, just a plastic nut inside on top of the spring. I hope there is no sensitive adjustment on this nut/spring because I didn't count the turns up to remove it and I have just put it back to about where I remember it, 5 or 6 turns down. If you know of some specific adjustment, please let me know.

    However, now that I have the assembly out, I have noticed that the burner end of the mixture tube, right at the end where the flame starts, is burned through top and one side under the hood, and this probably accounts for the wild flame. Hope I can get the right parts. Thank you kindly. -- Doug

  • Thomas Malailua
    Thomas Malailua May 11, 2010

    just make the cap tight, it dose not matter other wise

  • Thomas Malailua
    Thomas Malailua May 11, 2010

    i suspect you dryer was set to lp gas and now you are on natural gas?the orifice for lp is much bigger so the flame would be exaggerated and not well defined.it is a law that if a dryer is converted to lp gas that the converter is to place stickers advising so.they would be on the door area.another way to check,is on the gas valve there is a nut[turn off gas first]remove that nut and if you see a long plastic stem on the inside of the nut[cap]with a flat piece at the end of the stem,so it would then push open the regulator spring,then its definitely lp gas.you can write back if need more advise God bless ,tom

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4 Suggested Answers

the dr
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SOURCE: kenmore gas dryer 80series model 110.c72852101

90% of all gas dryers lighting intermittently is resolved with new coil packs on the gas valve. The coils are replacable fairly easily and inexpensive.

Posted on Oct 04, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Intermitten Heat up

I would like to thank the ones who responded to giving me a 'hand' in repairing my dryer. I did like you said & changed out the coils & now the dryer is working like it should.

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

docjohn174
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SOURCE: Maytag Neptune MDG300aww Gas Dryer Heats On and Off

hI YES THE COILS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO CHANGE thANKS FOR THE QUESTION tHE APPLIANCS DOC

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: I have a kenmore gas dryer the igniter glows flame

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I'll start by saying your post indicates it is obviously a Kenmore gas dryer, however if you could post the complete model number I can speak directly about possible remedies instead of generalizing.


At the risk of doing so, you mentioned you do get heat intermittently, and the drum does turn correct ?

If this is a symptom where the unit at first begins to heat but the flame drops out in a matter of seconds or minutes I would be looking at the burner coils. This is what you'll be looking for...

macmarkus_638.jpg
Once you've gain access to the coils you'll need to remove the wire harness and check the continuity.

Here's the tricky part though...many times they will ohm out ok when cool (not operating) yet as soon as there is current passing through the coil it "opens". The wire inside the coils is so fine that often it only takes a small current to "open" the circuit.

Most times it will only be one coil that fails but it is good practice to replace them both, many places used to sell them in a kit so double check with your supplier. I've attached a link here, though it may be different than your model the principles to changing the coils are the same.

As far as what part you may need and how to get it. There are a couple of places I prefer, on-line at "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com".

Kit contains both the two wire and three wire solenoids. One solenoid is the primary and one is the safety. Both have to operate for the gas valve to open. Usually, one of them burns out as I said but you should always replace them as a set.

**unplug the appliance and turn off the gas supply before attempting any service...safety first**

The most common for Kenmore is part number 3479 at "repairclinic" as this link should provide you.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Valve-Solenoid-Set/3479
Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll do whatever I can. Thank you for your patience while I was away for a while. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Posted on May 25, 2011

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I have a kenmore gas dryer, the drum turns but no heat, I replaced the radiant sensor and the control thermostat but still no heat?


here is a partial list of componets that could cause the dryer to not heat
Ignitor
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high limit t-stat
gas valve coils
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Kenmore Elite He3 gas dryer (110-92832100) not heating. Igniter glows red for a min or so, drum spins, hear a loud 'buzzing' noise....


The problem could be flame radiant sensor or in most cases the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves. The radiant sensor must be aligned perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils,
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I have a 7yo Kenmore Elite gas dryer w/no heat. I tested all the possible culprits with my ohmmeter. I found the ignitor was not glowing so I replaced it. Now it glows but I still have no heat


The glowing if the ignitor indicates that the circuitry is good but the flame/radiant sensor is bad and/or one or both of the gas valve solenoid coils are not working. The flame/radiant sensor bypasses one the solenoid coils then when power is applied to the ignition circuit, the first coil opens the first valve, the ignitor glows and the flame/radiant sensor gets heated. It's contacts then opens when heated enough to unbypass the second coil and allow the gas to flow and be ignited.

Make sure the flame/radiant sensor is properly in place and aligned with the ignitor to allow proper heat sensing. You may check the continuity between the sensor's contact terminals as the ignitor glows. At first, the terminals should read close (zero resistance) and then open (infinite resistance) after about 30 seconds or so. If this is not the case, the sensor is not working and must be replaced.

The solenoid coils, one with 2 prongs and the other has 3, sitting on top of the gas valves must be both replaced if the flame/radiant sensor turns out good. But before doing so, make sure to run a test with the dryer completely assembled because sometimes the gas do not ignite when the dryer's cabinet is open. This is to prevent unnecessary replacement of the coils.

Feel free to update us about the result and if you need further advice.

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I have a model 110.92832100 Kenmore Elite gas dryer that has stopped drying. i found a penny welded onto the Thermal fuse, so I replaced it and while I was in there I replaced the thermostat. When the...


Since you are already this far you have some knowledge of how you dryer works. What is wrong now is the heat sensor that picks up that the pilot is on. The pilot should burn at a steady flame when you turn the dryer on to heat this in turn heats a probe next to the piolit this is a type of heat sensor. When the probe or heat sensor senses heat it tells the gas valve that its okay to turn on. Have a great day and hope this helps.

Aug 19, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore gas dryer wont heat up


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

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Hi, I have a Kenmore gas dryer that shows the symptoms above -no heat, but everything is operational-. I have replaced the thermal fuse, and both thermostats. It did work for a few minutes, but then it...


Really? You want me to pay you to tell me how to fix it, but you want me to TELL YOU how I fixed it for free? Some scam you're running. Please remove my e-mail address from your system.

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No heat burner comes on for a few minutes and then goes out


Check the following to address this issue.

1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

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3 Answers

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