Question about Dryers
I got this dryer free a few months ago so it doesn't owe me much. But it has not heated well. Flame would burn for a few minutes, then shut off and not come on for the remainder of the cycle. Last week I discovered that the radiant/flame sensor glass window was broken and the black plastic case wall burned through on one side. So when everything was ice cold the burner came on. But with a bit of warmth there was no ignition.
I got a new sensor and put it in. It was great for 3 loads, then the igniter quit glowing. After a pile of fooling about I decided to see if the radiant sensor was working. This new one is burned up too. This time the sensor was jammed open so the igniter wasn't glowing.
I thought it was suspicious that a bit of flame was going out the hole in the flame shroud where the sensor is mounted. I suspect this sensor must detect just that a flame is present close by, and there should be no flame against it. My question is: Where should the flame be in relation to this radiant sensor and how do I adjust the burner/shroud/sensor to ensure another new one doesn't burn up too?
90% of all gas dryers lighting intermittently is resolved with new coil packs on the gas valve. The coils are replacable fairly easily and inexpensive.
Posted on Oct 04, 2007
SOURCE: Intermitten Heat up
I would like to thank the ones who responded to giving me a 'hand' in repairing my dryer. I did like you said & changed out the coils & now the dryer is working like it should.
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
I'll start by saying your post indicates it is obviously a Kenmore gas dryer, however if you could post the complete model number I can speak directly about possible remedies instead of generalizing.
At the risk of doing so, you mentioned you do get heat intermittently, and the drum does turn correct ?
If this is a symptom where the unit at first begins to heat but the flame drops out in a matter of seconds or minutes I would be looking at the burner coils. This is what you'll be looking for...
Once you've gain access to the coils you'll need to remove the wire harness and check the continuity.
Here's the tricky part though...many times they will ohm out ok when cool (not operating) yet as soon as there is current passing through the coil it "opens". The wire inside the coils is so fine that often it only takes a small current to "open" the circuit.
Most times it will only be one coil that fails but it is good practice to replace them both, many places used to sell them in a kit so double check with your supplier. I've attached a link here, though it may be different than your model the principles to changing the coils are the same.
As far as what part you may need and how to get it. There are a couple of places I prefer, on-line at "searspartsdirect.com" or "repairclinic.com".
Kit contains both the two wire and three wire solenoids. One solenoid is the primary and one is the safety. Both have to operate for the gas valve to open. Usually, one of them burns out as I said but you should always replace them as a set.
**unplug the appliance and turn off the gas supply before attempting any service...safety first**
The most common for Kenmore is part number 3479 at "repairclinic" as this link should provide you.
Let me know how you make out or if you require further assistance and I'll do whatever I can. Thank you for your patience while I was away for a while. Good luck.
Posted on May 25, 2011
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