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the maximum cutting depth of a circular saw is the distance from the teeth to the drive washer hub of the saw blade
so on a 7 1/2 saw the effective cut would be less than 3"
if your base board is thicker than that get a bigger saw
it the board is a lot less adjust the cut depth adjustment for the saw base
There are manuals for the Skil 3400 available online.
Centering the blade to the table simply requires a screwdriver, a good square, and some patience. Basically you're loosening up the points that hold it vertically and horizontally (front to back), checking them against the table with your square, and then tightening them up when everything looks nice and ninety degrees.
It's not the best saw in the world, but with a little work, I've been able to get it to make 90 degree cuts and perfect miters with a miter sled and a cross-cut sled I built using aluminum (I think?) T-shaped replacement runners that would normally be used for the worthless miter guide that comes with it.
Make sure the blade is 90 deg vertical to the saw table. Make sure the indicator is set approprately. Raise the blade just enough to clear the table/base. Place a swanson speed square against the fence and blade. Make sure the indicator is at 90 degrees. Here you might want to tilt the square and check that the complete blade is flush against the sqaure as high up as possible. Lay the square back flat on the table and pull the blade toward you as much as possible. The teeth on the blade should ride against the square extented completely out.
Now set the square against the fence with the 45 degree angle coming away from the table and set the blade on the 45 deg mark on the insicator scale.
The blade should touch the square all the way out fully extented.
I assume that your alignment procedure is about adjusting your miter gage. But you should first verify if the blade is parallel to the miter slot (the slot the miter gage slides in). This is adjustable underneath the saw, and sometimes comes crooked from the factory or comes loose later on. To check if the blade is parallel to the miter slot you can do this.....1. unplug the saw. 2. Raise the blade as far as it will go. 3. Clamp a piece of wood to your miter gage so that it just touches the blade as close to the front of the saw as possible. 4. Use a marker and mark that spot on the blade. 5. Now slide the miter toward the back of the saw, and rotate the blade by hand so that your piece of wood hits the same spot as where you checked in the front. You can see a large misalignment by eye. But you can get a little precise by using a piece of paper between the wood and the blade as a feeler gage. Or better yet, use a drop indicator instead of the piece of wood and you can measure the difference. If this isn't as close to parallel as you are able to measure it, you need to turn the saw over and find the bolts that attach the whole assembly under there to the table top. Once you have this in alignment, you should be able to set your miter to be square against any good square. If you don't have a high quality square, you can go to a tool store (Sears or whoever) with your miter gage in hand, and set it to be square against their most expensive square. If the square is square, and the blade is parallel to the slot and it still won't cut square you either have a bad blade or there is too much play in the saw's arbor. Try to wiggle the blade side-to-side - any wiggle at all is too much.
1) Before setting the Miter gauge, check that the blade is straight (parallel) with the slide grooves. Lock a board in the miter gauge and place against the front of the blade, and then the back of the blade. Is the distance EXACTLY the same (it won't matter if the miter gauge isn't straight and square). If not, you'll need to loosen the table and rotate the blade holder to square it up. 2) Now Cut a board in half the flip one side over and place the cut back together. If it isn't straight, the resulting board will have a "dog-leg". 3) Adjust the miter-set-screw until the cuts on the trial board yield a board that comes out straight (or use a Framing square to check).
i use a framing square off of the back fence with the blade down. when it is square, i check the other side of the fence and loosen the screws on the plate with the degree increments and set it to zero
Hello. thanks for choosing fixya. Here is the best way to do an inside corner:
For an inside corner joint, square-cut the first piece of molding and **** it tight into corner. 1. Miter-cut the second piece to 45 degrees. 2. Highlight the leading edge of the molding with a pencil. 3. Cut along leading edge with a coping saw. 4. Smooth the cut edge with 100-grit sandpaper to create a tight joint
Could be the wear plates under the table between it and the base. Or if it doesn't have any then the two mating surfaces are dry and rubbing causing this problem I would suggest going to Dewaltservicenet.com and typing in your model number and downloading a breakdown for the tool. To remove the table on most saws you have to remove the fence and that requires that you square everything up upon disassembly. Let me know and I will try and help further. By the way to clean the parts I use a surface conditioner with something like a scrubbing pad and then after everyting clean use a dry silicone lubricant or equivelant.